ABS and Traction control system disabled
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Wylie TX
ABS and Traction control system disabled
I was told I had a bad speed sensor in the front left hub assembly. I purchased a new hub assembly from Murray’s Discount Auto Stores and installed it. After I put the car back on the road the problem returned. I found a Tech II and hooked it up and drove the car down the road. As I drove the car I found the front right and both back sensors held the same speed as I spead up and slowed down. The new hub assembly would jump from 0 mph to the speed of the other three sensors and back to 0 again. I know it is possible that I got a lemon out of the box, but when I took the ohm readings on the right hub assembly with nothing plugged into it and the ohm meter on the 20 k setting I got 1.11. On both the old and new hub assembly for the left side I got 1.09. Is this enough to cause the problem or even the way to test for a good hub assembly?
I’m not sure where to look next. Are the wires from the left hub routed anywhere where it is easy to get pinched or shorted? If I need to look at the computer are there any easy diagnostic tricks to find the problem?
[Modified by ekuhn, 6:05 AM 7/6/2004]
I’m not sure where to look next. Are the wires from the left hub routed anywhere where it is easy to get pinched or shorted? If I need to look at the computer are there any easy diagnostic tricks to find the problem?
[Modified by ekuhn, 6:05 AM 7/6/2004]
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington NC
Re: ABS and Traction control system disabled (ekuhn)
I was told I had a bad speed sensor in the front left hub assembly. I purchased a new hub assembly from Murray’s Discount Auto Stores and installed it. After I put the car back on the road the problem returned. I found a Tech II and hooked it up and drove the car down the road. As I drove the car I found the front right and both back sensors held the same speed as I spead up and slowed down. The new hub assembly would jump from 0 mph to the speed of the other three sensors and back to 0 again. I know it is possible that I got a lemon out of the box, but when I took the ohm readings on the right hub assembly with nothing plugged into it and the ohm meter on the 20 k setting I got 1.11. On both the old and new hub assembly for the left side I got 1.09. Is this enough to cause the problem or even the way to test for a good hub assembly?
I’m not sure where to look next. Are the wires from the left hub routed anywhere where it is easy to get pinched or shorted? If I need to look at the computer are there any easy diagnostic tricks to find the problem?
[Modified by ekuhn, 6:05 AM 7/6/2004]
I’m not sure where to look next. Are the wires from the left hub routed anywhere where it is easy to get pinched or shorted? If I need to look at the computer are there any easy diagnostic tricks to find the problem?
[Modified by ekuhn, 6:05 AM 7/6/2004]
http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
Make note of the code(s)
The cable from the sensor is actually a jumper cable. Swap the 2 front cables and see if you get the same codes. My guess is you will get a C1221 1225 or C1232 before you switch the jumper and a C1222 c1226 or C1233 after you switch if it is a bad jumper. I understand a bad jumper is fairly common.
You can also check the output of the speed sensor by disconnecting the connector and hooking a VOM to the speed sensor terminals. Spin the tire as fast as you can and you should get at least 100 mv (1/10 volt) on the AC scale.
The jumper cable is GM # 10332527 for either front side if you determine you need a replacement.
[Modified by Richin Chicago, 2:58 AM 7/6/2004]
