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99 Vert module madness - long

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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 08:22 PM
  #1  
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From: Monticello IL
Default 99 Vert module madness - long

I've searched the achives and done most of what I have found to fix this turkey but I'm still having trouble. This is a familier problem:

Gas guage drops to "E", oil pressure gauge drops to 0, water temp gauge goes full scale. Voltmeter, speedo and tach are all ok. Traction control light comes on, Check gauges light on, ABS light on, Airbag light on. DIC messages are reduced engine power, low fuel, check tire pressure, and service vehicle soon.

The engine power does not appear to be a real problem.

Radio goes dead - no display or power, windows, mirrors, and locks on driver side all dead. Passenger side window dead but lock works. A/C appears to be ok.

If I shut the car off and restart - everything is fine until the next time it happens, usually within twenty minutes or less.

Codes:
PCM - P1626H
TCS - U1301H, U1016H
BCM - U1255H, U1016H, U1096H
SDM - U1301H
IPC - U1255H, U1040H, U1064H, U1016H, U1176H, U1088H, U1160H
RADIO - U1096H, U1016H, U1064H
HVAC - U1064H, U1096H, U1160HC, U1255H
RDCM - U1064H
LDCM - No Comm
SCM - No Comm
RFA - U1255H, U1096H, U1064H, U1016H

The "No Comm" on the SCM is because I pulled the plug on it trying to reduce the number of codes. It has been giving the usual network codes and several about various controls tied hi. I have also been having codes from the TCS about the RH sensor open. I worked through and tested everything there and didn't find anything wrong. After reconnecting the harnesses it appears to be ok now! At least for a while. I did replace the battery with a red top Optima. I had to clean up the wiring under the battery tray as some corrosion was present but didn't seem to have caused any damage. I have cleaned the chassis grounds under the hood. I have also inspected the BCM in the foot well of the passenger side for water damage - no sign of moisture.

What do I try next?

Steve
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 01:38 PM
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Did you trace the harness all the way to the PCM behind the passenger wheel to make sure the corrosion didn't make it's way all the way down there? A buddy of mine had a very similar battery tray and harness condition (luckily, no apparent problems though) and the mess he found at the PCM was amazing. I couldn't believe his car was even running, much less working at all, after seeing pics of the PCM he sent.
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 03:12 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13
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The clue here is the "no comm" to the LDCM (left door control module) Remove the rubber acordian grommet from the door jam and pull the wiring harness out.You will see a blue and a black connector.Disconnect the black connector and check the female connector pins on the BLACK and ORANGE wires.Usually these female pins spread open causing poor contact with the male connector pins.You may want to check the connectors on both sides.
Because the door control modules communicate with the other modules in the vehicle,loss of power (orange) or ground (black) causes "no communications" to the door module and also causes the other modules to go bizerk
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 07:22 PM
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From: Monticello IL
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Thanks C-5 Tech! I believe it is fixed. I opened up the accordian boot and pulled the connector out and checked the pins. The orange wire in particular was very loose. I used an Exacto knife and a jeweler's screwdriver to tighten it up. Did the same for the black wire even though it wasn't quite as bad. Is there a way to remove the contacts {without destroying them} to do a cleaner job of this?

Put it all back together and went for a drive down the bumpy old highway and then a blast back on the Interstate - no codes! Drove it around town to run errands and still no codes! I'm hopeful that it really is fixed.

Now I can work on getting the seat module back together.

Thanks again.

Steve
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 08:48 PM
  #5  
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St. Jude Donor '13
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You can remove the wire terminal from the connector by depressing the tang on the wire terminal,but you can mess up the terminal if you dont have some practice in doing so.I use a dental pick or paper clip and go in from the back side of the connector to tighten the terminal pins
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