When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i was driving my car on the freeway the other day for about 20 mi. at speed 70 ,running fine,when i came up on traffic and had to slow to about 15-20. then the bells and whistles went off,,reduced engine power, check engine, something else as well. i could barely get off the fwy and into a parking lot(weird feeling for this car!!) i shut it down, got out and looked.. nothing appeared to be wrong,coolant fine,oil ok..... nothing apparent. after a few moments... i restarted ... it ran fine but.... check engine light on all the time now...any ideas on this?? help!!
Do you know how to display codes on the DIC? If yes, report them and I can look them up for you. If not, here is what you do. With the engine off turn the key to on but don't start it. Push and hold the options key and while holding the options key push the fuel key 4 times fast (within 5 secs) and let go of the options key. The DIC should start to rattle off the modules, how many codes there are for it, and the particular codes. Hit the Gauges button and it will go into manual mode. To step ahead one module, hit the Gauges button. To Step back one module hit the fuel button. When you are in a module you want to look at hit the Options button to go forward one code or the Trip button to go back one code. Go through the modules and read the codes and write them down. When you are done, hit the E/M key. If you want to try and reset a code use the RESET key and hold it untill the code clears. Don't erase anty codes until you know which ones they are and what they mean. The codes that will be most important are the ones with a C following the number. Those are the current codes. The ones with an H are the history codes and may or may not be relevant. You should record them all, both the C and H codes, and post them here so I or someone else can look them up for you and give you a better idea where to look.
but after you write them down go ahead and erase them, you may have had a glitch plus the only way to get out of reduced power mode is to erase the code, if it comes back then you need to do something about it.
Thanx for the info guys!! good stuff to know, i'm dropping her off at the shop today before she gets her new shoes. who needs wheels without an engine?
i was driving my car on the freeway the other day for about 20 mi. at speed 70 ,running fine,when i came up on traffic and had to slow to about 15-20. then the bells and whistles went off,,reduced engine power, check engine, something else as well. i could barely get off the fwy and into a parking lot(weird feeling for this car!!) i shut it down, got out and looked.. nothing appeared to be wrong,coolant fine,oil ok..... nothing apparent. after a few moments... i restarted ... it ran fine but.... check engine light on all the time now...any ideas on this?? help!!
While coming home late last night from a friends party, i had expeirenced the same problem(reduced engine power) and got stuck in the middle of a highway with NO shoulders due to construction. after restarting the motor about 5 times to get the car off the highway i popped the hood to take a look.
To make a long story short my WWC carbon fiber intake duct had somehow dissconnected from the Mass airflow sensor thats apart of the airbox.
after reconnecting the two the car ran like normal. you might have a loose clamp and your Mass air flow might be the problem.
thanx to all that replied, turns out that the drive by wire transmitter module malfunctioned(i'm not sure if that is the throttle position sensor or not, but i don't think so...but not far off red c-5!!) The computer will reduce engine power to prevent a wide open throttle runaway car as a safety feature.. the unit is about $280.00 i was told, so since its working now, i think i'll wait and see if this was a one time glitch, but if it happens again... i know the fix!!