Hi, y'all....... Has anyone experienced stickshift column lock
problems AFTER having the recall work done??
When I went to pick up my 99 H/T after the work, I gave it a
good test, trying to "confuse" the car by pulling, turning, removing
the key repeatedly as fast as I could. All seems ok......
But when I ask exactly what they did, all they say is
"recall service".
The notice stating "what will be done " seems to insure that the
engine WONT RUN if the column locks.....it doesnt really read that
the C/L problem itself will be purged forever.
Does ANYONE know for sure?

 

If the column locks ater you remove the key, the potential for failure is still there.

 

They didn't do a thing to fix the problem the new code just makes sure the car won't run.

 

Install a column lock by-pass and be worry free. That's what I'm doing. I'm removing the CLB, having the recall done then re installing the CLB. That way when I sell the Z the new owner can't beat me up for not having a recall done.

I understand they are supposed to check the clearance between the pin and a plate plus re-program the PCM. If there is a clearance problem they will replace the plate. At least that's what I was told by my dealer.

Tom

 

Do you know what they do to check the plate clearance? They turn the wheel from stop to stop and listen for noise (I have a family member who is a GM mechanic).

I just thought you guys might find this amusing. I was under the impression that a visual inspection would be done, but I guess not - only if noise is detected. They will indeed reprogram the PCM to make sure that if you column happens to get locked while you're in the desert in 120 degree heat you won't be able to run the motor to have AC (or heat in the cold). Brilliant.

 

I brought my car in for some minor issues before I hit the 75K and I was out of warranty. They are doing the column lock recall also. They had to order some parts so it is either more than a new code or the dealer that fixed it the first time it screwed something up.

 

If you have a custom tune in your PCM, you will lose it if they reflash the program. Even if you a back up copy, it will not accept it. The latest update of LS1 edit will be able to reinstall it and I believe HP tuners newest update will also. SOOO, the recall becomes a lose/lose situation for some of us.

 

 

It was a safety recall only for 6 speed cars, intended to make sure the car does not drive if the column is stuck. They've done nothing to actually ensure the column wont get stuck. At least the A4 guys get all taken care of for free!

 

If I had a 6 speed, I'd insist they replace the existing lock plate with the new lock plate. If I had a custom tune, I'd hesitate.

According to GM's TSB submitted to the NHTSA, the tech is supposed to make the environment "as quiet as possible" to listen for clicking or scraping??? What if the guy's a headbanger with a 5000W stereo in his rice burner? He won't hear s**t! They only replace the lock plate if they hear something. BTW, the dealers are 'required' by GM to do the recall on any vehicles brought in for any type of service, even if you don't want the recall. GM says they can't release the car until the recall is performed. So if you go in for an oil change, you have a good chance of getting the recall performed even if you didn't ask for it!

I'm having the recall done on my '97 A4 because the aftermarket CLBs cause intermittent "Pull Key" codes on my PCM (when that happens, the fuel shuts off if you try to drive) and techs on other forums have reported BCM failures that can be traced back to improper voltage from the CLB causing relays to fail, resulting in the need for BCM replacement. The new GM CLB (called a shorting harness by GM) costs $65-$85 plus shipping (GM Parts Direct and Fitchner, respectively) so I'm going to let some tech do it for me locally. Plus they replace the lock plate with a different plate that won't lock the steering in the event the damn pin from the ECL decides to poke its ugly head out while driving. This is the biggest reason (other than having an outstanding recall on my car) I'm letting the stealership do the work. I'm going to save the money for my HP Tuner equipment (for when they finally get around to the '97 C5's ).

The feds require the steering wheel lock if a transmission lock is not in place, otherwise they'd remove the ECL from all the Vettes. At least with the reprogram, GM gets around the legal problems created by an owner being able to drive forward with the steering locked. I had heard that there are cases where owners were already driving and THEN the column locked (YIKES!!!) but haven't read much on it and don't know if the new reprogram/lock plate on the M6s would even address that issue. I believe the only issue it addresses is the ability, under certain low voltage conditions, for the car to be driven with the steering wheel locked. The reprogram allows the PCM to address the low voltage issue; probably re-checks the pin location after start if low voltage condition is registered during start up. At that point, either cuts off fuel or puts the <2 mph restriction in the PCM.

Someone mentioned above that the engine wouldn't run if the column lock fails; different than the existing PCM logic which allows engine to run as long as car isn't moving. Does anyone know if this is true? Sure would s**k since now, at least, you can try cooling down the interior to see if the pin will free itself.

Hopping off my soapbox now.

 

 

My 2001' vette's column locked today. I am told that it was "repaired" as part of the recall. So now what do I do????

 

My 2001' 6-speed vette is experiencing column lock today. It was supposedly repaired as part of the recall. Now what do I do? Will the dealer repair it a 2nd time as part of the recall? Has anyone else had this problem?

 

The column lock problem is normally a battery problem. Disconnect the leads on your battery and using a volt meter, read the voltage. Anything less than 12.5V and you will have problems. Buy a column lock bypass from one of the vendors, put in a new battery and you should be good to go.

However, every two-three years test your battery. It is possible to experience Column Lock gas shut off if the battery goes south on you. You can also use some high end scan/tune tools and turn off the bypass (export mode) command altogether.

 

There was a post on the column lock issue where someone said take the key out, turn real hard right on the steering wheel then try the key again it may unlock.
Maybe try several times.

Worth a try

 

We tested the battery and sure enough, it was weak (even though there was no such indication on the dash). My battery was 3-years old but I'm told it does more harm than good to let it sit disconnected all winter. I purchased a new battery, at first it said "column lock pull key and wait 10 seconds," which I did. I've started it up a dozen times and it hasn't locked up since. I'm new to this forum but so happy someone told me about it at a car show last month. Thank you for the great advice. Do you think I should also get a coumn lock bypass now that it's working? Thanks again.

 

Thank you for the advice. When we tested the battery it went down to about 10˝ when loaded. And you're right, no indication of a battery problem on the dash. So far the new battery has cured the problem. Thanks again.

 

I would.
The module is only 50.00
You don't want to get stuck somewhere and have to try and unlock the wheel by turning it hard right and retrying the key.