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My car is already lowered, and I can tell that there is little suspension travel left in the stock shocks. Yet, I still plan to lower the car some more I know the Billsteins are 1" shorter, but is there anything else other than pricey coil-overs or spendy adjustable shocks that would have a shorter body? There are soooo many short nitrogen shocks in the sport truck realm, somebody has had to experiment.
My car is already lowered, and I can tell that there is little suspension travel left in the stock shocks. Yet, I still plan to lower the car some more I know the Billsteins are 1" shorter, but is there anything else other than pricey coil-overs or spendy adjustable shocks that would have a shorter body? There are soooo many short nitrogen shocks in the sport truck realm, somebody has had to experiment.
I don't know what the stock shocks are, but my C4 came stock with Bilsteins. While I was not looking for adjustments in size, I was very unhappy with compression and rebound dampening. I contacted Bilstein and they re-worked the shocks for me for either $25 or $50 bucks apiece, I can't remember which. I worked with an engineer over the phone, and sent the shocks back and forth twice. They were able to increase both compression and rebound by percentages, and even increase bypass. With all those adjustments customized, I don't see why they wouldn't be able to accomodate you all around. I'm not sure if they've moved since I did this, but the place I was dealing with was in Simi Valley, Ca.
You can help prevent the rear shocks from bottoming out by reversing
the upper shock mounting plate. To do this properly, you have to shim the side that is now going to get bolted in the upper wheelwell. This is because it is a stamped-out piece with a turned up lip around its perimiter for stiffining. It would not be good to have this lip against the wheelwell. Some guys have used washers. Just make sure that they fit and stick up a little past the lip.
I had my Z51 lowered 2 inches in the rear, and the Bilstein Sports were bottoming out. When I reversed the upper shock mounting plate and machined a spacer ring on the shock rod, I picked up .8 in. of travel. The next time I hit the road depressions that caused bottoming, the shocks did not bottom out. However, the top of the rear wheels barely scraped the top of the inner wheelwell. So, you can see I have found the upper and lower limits of my rear suspension setup and ajustments. To prevent further rubbing, I raised the rear 1/2".
hey 2k, nice info
i will give it a view this weekend to see exactly what you are talking about.
really, my front needs to come down more, since the fenderwell gap is larger there. i bought a set of used lower control arms from a forum member. i think if you mill some the height where the shock bolts on top of the lower control arm, you could also gain more shock travel too.
i will experiment with this used first to see if it will work.
all in all , without using coil-overs, i want as little fenderwell gap as possible