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I was hoping someone on the forum could help me out. I recently purchased a 1997 C-5 (automatic). To increase it's performance, I have done the following:
- Dynatech headers & hi-flow cats
- B & B cat back exhaust
- Yank 3800 stall
- 3.42 gears
- ATI Procharger (7 psi)
- Granatelli mass air flow sensor
- BBK 80mm Throttle Body
- Weiand Lingenfelter manifold
- LS1 Edit
I have had the car dynoed on a Dynojet. It produces 427RWHP and 467Ft/LB of torque. I have read articles on the supercharger, so I know what others have experienced. I also know what the manufacturer claims. I am quite happy with the torque results, but I figured I should have been somewhere around 450RWHP with only the S/C and without any other mods. With the additional mods, I would have expected to see higher numbers.
Does anyone agree or am I just crazy??? Any insight/thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for you input. Unfortunately, I did not perform baseline testing before the mods. What I do know is that my best 0-60 time prior to the mods was 4.97 seconds. Now, the best I can do is 4.47 seconds due to severe traction issues. I can't keep the tires from spinning at launch. Even cruising at 20-30 mph, if I stomp on the gas, the back end jiggles as the tires are hooking up - I have to be very careful where I decide to open the car up. May have to look into bigger rubber - that's a whole other issue with the car...
- Dynatech headers & hi-flow cats
- B & B cat back exhaust
- Yank 3800 stall
- 3.42 gears
- ATI Procharger (7 psi)
- Granatelli mass air flow sensor
- BBK 80mm Throttle Body
- Weiand Lingenfelter manifold
- LS1 Edit
Is that Weind manifold aluminum, if so get rid of it. Aluminum will act as a heat sink and if you have a IR temp gun you'll see that at operating temperature the outside of that manifold will be around the same temp as your coolant, the stock manifold is made out of plastic and will be much cooler than the aluminum manifold.
I learned this with my Magnuson which has an aluminum manifold, driving down the freeway at 75 mph my IAT temps are right at 180* which is where my coolant and oil temps are running
I could be wrong but part of your low HP numbers problem might be the SS3800. That converter is really not designed for your application and you could be losing HP on the dyno because of it. Yank makes an SS3800E that is designed for use with forced induction applications. Also as mentioned above if your manifold is aluminum that could also be a problem.
You possibly are right on for your HP expectations. I agree with the post conscerning the lack of a baseline, their can be a 5% difference from stock car to car. Different DynoJets can read differently and you most likely will need to custom tune your setup with something like LS1 Edit to optimise your combination, like the others potentially did. Interestingly, there is one DynoJet in our area that reads higher then other DynoJets, older version of WinPep or less smoothing of the line charts I would assume. Guess how far people are willing to drive to get tested on that one for good internet numbers, then we all try to match them. We have a Mustang dyno, so you know where that leaves us, however, we do most of the tuning around here and they do most of the testing, works for us.
The Weiand manifold is aluminum. I have read about there being issues with aluminum manifolds retaining heat. I guess I should have the temparature checked out as suggested above. Is this a difficult thing to determine???
I was not aware of the SS3800E. The guys at T Byrne Motorsport recommended the stall converter/gear combo based on my set-up. I'll have to investigate this further...
I could be wrong but part of your low HP numbers problem might be the SS3800. That converter is really not designed for your application and you could be losing HP on the dyno because of it.
Thats what I was thinking. Let us know what you find out.
The Weiand manifold is aluminum. I have read about there being issues with aluminum manifolds retaining heat. I guess I should have the temparature checked out as suggested above. Is this a difficult thing to determine???
After you drive your car for a while try to touch your manifold, I guarantee your hand won't be on it for long. Then do the same thing with a stock LS-1 manifold, while it will be warm to the touch you will be able to touch it and not get burned.
BTW - I agree with the converter and also don't forget changing gear ratios to the 3.42 will make your dyno numbers a little lower, this is why dyno numbers don't mean d**k
Can you elaborate on why the gear change would affect the dyno results?
I can't tell you exactly why but if you go to a numerically higher gear like 3.42 to 3.73 for example your dyno readings will be lower. Going from 3.42 to 3.73 your car will dyno about 8-10 RWHP less. You really don't loose horse power you just get a lower reading.
I can't tell you exactly why but if you go to a numerically higher gear like 3.42 to 3.73 for example your dyno readings will be lower. Going from 3.42 to 3.73 your car will dyno about 8-10 RWHP less. You really doesn't lose horse power you just get a lower reading.
You do lose HP because when you go from a 3.42 to 3.73 you are decreasing the load to the engine that allows is to rev quicker. This subtracts its output HP due to internal/external enertia losses. Example, more HP will be lost on an engine with a heavy iron flywheel then a light aluminum flywheel.