When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The only thing the rear sensors do is check up on the cats condition. If you remove the cats, or go to long tube headers where the wires won't reach, than it is far easier to go with the Sims. If you are not going to do any extensive exhaust mods than you won't need the sims. If you want to go the sick bird route (Ill Eagle ) and remove the cats for more noise or better flow than you will need the Sims.
If you install an "off road" pipe (eliminating your catalytic converters) you need to either install the O2 simulators which trick the computer into thinking you still have the cats, or you need to use LS1Edit (or a simliar PCM editing tool) to edit them out of the program and keep them from "throwing" codes.
In my case I installed the O2 sim's into the harness ocnections in the engine tunnel and used oil drain plugs (picked them up at Advanced Auto) to plug the bungs on the off road pipe.
would there be any advantage for these if you were running Long tubes with cats?
Ive heard that these help the car maintain the A/F ratio better than real sensors
I used them when I installed my LG headers until I could get a tune and they kept me from throwing any codes. They're now for sale in the Parts section if anyone is interested.
would there be any advantage for these if you were running Long tubes with cats?
Ive heard that these help the car maintain the A/F ratio better than real sensors
I don't think the computer looks at the rear sensors for A/F ratio, just the fronts. Because of connection resistance you can't cut or splice the wires to make them longer. Long tubes or the LGs anyway are so long they move the cats way back. Or if you put the cats after the X pipe, you won't beable to reach them with the current cable lengths.