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I'm sort of new to the C5. My first, in fact, a 99 coupe MN6 50K miles with no idea of prior history on the car. It is immaculate and running Nitto NT555 tires (not cheap from what I've discovered)
Curious on clutch travel and when you know it's time to replace?
Forgive my cheezy (but easy) graphic.
| -------------------| Say this is length of travel
^Floor ................. ^ all the way out
|--------------:-----| About where mine starts to grab (engage)
|------------------|-| Push in that much and it starts to slip a little.
Just last weekend had it out on 1.5 mi oval and 1 mile road course. Lots of clutch and brake. Never smelled anything, nor felt any slipping that I could feel, but curious where the travel engage/disgage SHOULD be?
Is travel a sign of clutch about to go? Are there any adjustments?
How complicated for a DIY'r with a good compliment of air, power and hand tools?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by diyguy
I'm sort of new to the C5. My first, in fact, a 99 coupe MN6 50K miles with no idea of prior history on the car. It is immaculate and running Nitto NT555 tires (not cheap from what I've discovered)
Curious on clutch travel and when you know it's time to replace?
Forgive my cheezy (but easy) graphic.
| -------------------| Say this is length of travel
^Floor ................. ^ all the way out
|--------------:-----| About where mine starts to grab (engage)
|------------------|-| Push in that much and it starts to slip a little.
Just last weekend had it out on 1.5 mi oval and 1 mile road course. Lots of clutch and brake. Never smelled anything, nor felt any slipping that I could feel, but curious where the travel engage/disgage SHOULD be?
Is travel a sign of clutch about to go? Are there any adjustments?
How complicated for a DIY'r with a good compliment of air, power and hand tools?
Many thanks
Based on your graphic above, my clutch engages/disengages at just about the same area as yours. There is no manual adjustment for clutch pedal travel. Hydraulic is self-adjusting.
Would a general consenus be to let it go until it does start to actually slip?
As it is not a daily driver, and when it does go, everything gets replaced anyway, whether 'nearly gone' or 'yep- it's gone' mentality.
I've replaced a clutch here and there on the older 60's and 70's muscle cars (where you had enough room under the hood to have a beer an pizza party), and that wasn't that bad. But the vette looks like it could be a real beeatch to dive into. Looks very cramped and tight conditions to work in.
The test would be to put it in a high gear like 5th at around 30 MPH and stomp on it. If the RPMs rise independent of the vehicle speed then it's on it's way out. If it doesn't slip then I wouldn't go through the trouble as it is a LOT of trouble! I have done two in my garage on jacks/jackstands and it is a major PITA!
my car also has 50K miles on it, and the clutch travel is similar to yours. I don't have any slipping issues either. I think it's normal... I wouldn't change it out unless you can actually detect slipping
I had 39,xxx on my stock '01 Z06 clutch w/ 3 hpdes, lots of auto xing, and a handful of trips to the 1/4. The clutch still doesn't slip, but I've gotten a lUK stage II put in b/c GM is fixing my moaning differential and has to take all the stuff out of the car, thus doing to expensive part of a clutch install for me for free.
my car also has 50K miles on it, and the clutch travel is similar to yours. I don't have any slipping issues either. I think it's normal... I wouldn't change it out unless you can actually detect slipping
The clutch engagement point is high on the pedal. That is normal. Wait until the clutch is obviously slipping before you bother to change it out. As it is a labor intensive ordeal.