Lowered... just do it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Lowered... just do it.
Well, after 2 years and 4 months, I finally decided to take the time to lower my car just a little bit.
I only turned the screws 3 turns CCW on all 4 corners and I am hoping to get somewhere between 6 and 8 mm drop, once the car settles down that is.
If I don't like it, I'll turn the bolts back 1 1/2 turns clockwise. (CW)
Procedure was a walk in the park, took me less about 45 minutes to do it.
Doing this requires a good floor jack, spare jack prefered too, rhino ramps, wood pieces to prevent damaging the aluminum with the jack and the jackstands, and some tire stops to put under the front tires so the car doesn't move when you lift the back. A 10 mm wrench for the front and a 13/16ths wrench and one 18 mm socket for the rear.
For those undecided....
JUST DO IT...
I only turned the screws 3 turns CCW on all 4 corners and I am hoping to get somewhere between 6 and 8 mm drop, once the car settles down that is.
If I don't like it, I'll turn the bolts back 1 1/2 turns clockwise. (CW)
Procedure was a walk in the park, took me less about 45 minutes to do it.
Doing this requires a good floor jack, spare jack prefered too, rhino ramps, wood pieces to prevent damaging the aluminum with the jack and the jackstands, and some tire stops to put under the front tires so the car doesn't move when you lift the back. A 10 mm wrench for the front and a 13/16ths wrench and one 18 mm socket for the rear.
For those undecided....
JUST DO IT...
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 2
Not to break your stride, but I would go fronts and rears till 1 thread shows up front & two in rear-max drop is .5-.75 of an inch depending. As the car settles (it could take some time and driving) adjust the screws to make sure the car is level (USE a level and yardstick to measure from the fenders, frame near the wheels, and level from the trunk). You can even tailor it to be slightly higher on the driver side (if you drive alone) to compensate for your weight so it ends up neutral.
Once you are happy, get it four wheel alligned with you or ballast in it.
You will love it, the car wil not look lopsided, and it will ride on rails. Speaking from experience...
Once you are happy, get it four wheel alligned with you or ballast in it.
You will love it, the car wil not look lopsided, and it will ride on rails. Speaking from experience...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
I was debating how many counts, but after seeing on the other 'forum' what somebody ended up getting with just 5 turns, I decided to go for a more conservative '3 turn' approach. On top of that, my 35 degree sloped driveway was 'constantly reminding' me not to lower it too much, unless I wanted to scrape the whole thing.
I'll try the yardstick/level procedure. Thanks, thats a great idea. I also must admit I would've never thought about doing the alignment with me inside: that sounds like a very good idea. Thanks again.
I'll definitively take any improvements in handling, specially if those help fix the wierd gap between the tire and the fender. So far the car is been lowered but I wont be driving it until this coming weekend, and the bad weather hasn't helped it much so far. As a matter of fact, when I finished lowering it, it was raining outside... sadly, I haven't been able to test drive it yet. Good things always take time... they say.
Thanks for the input.
I'll try the yardstick/level procedure. Thanks, thats a great idea. I also must admit I would've never thought about doing the alignment with me inside: that sounds like a very good idea. Thanks again.
I'll definitively take any improvements in handling, specially if those help fix the wierd gap between the tire and the fender. So far the car is been lowered but I wont be driving it until this coming weekend, and the bad weather hasn't helped it much so far. As a matter of fact, when I finished lowering it, it was raining outside... sadly, I haven't been able to test drive it yet. Good things always take time... they say.
Thanks for the input.
Originally Posted by MiamiDave
Not to break your stride, but I would go fronts and rears till 1 thread shows up front & two in rear-max drop is .5-.75 of an inch depending. As the car settles (it could take some time and driving) adjust the screws to make sure the car is level (USE a level and yardstick to measure from the fenders, frame near the wheels, and level from the trunk). You can even tailor it to be slightly higher on the driver side (if you drive alone) to compensate for your weight so it ends up neutral.
Once you are happy, get it four wheel alligned with you or ballast in it.
You will love it, the car wil not look lopsided, and it will ride on rails. Speaking from experience...
Once you are happy, get it four wheel alligned with you or ballast in it.
You will love it, the car wil not look lopsided, and it will ride on rails. Speaking from experience...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 31
From: Richmond Texas
Let me know how bad you scrape on your driveway afterwards. Our driveway is the same angle and I'm tired of this 4x4 look but no matter how I pull in/out, I scrape the rubber part on the bottom of the front bumper.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
BigBlue,
I agree with MiamiDave, the black rubber part was designed for that.
The lowering I did is just enough to remove the 4x4 look without going too low. It clears just fine, the black thing scrapes, but it did that since day 1. I'd say, go for it, 3 turns should be all you need to make the 4x4 look go away.
Is not particularly different that it was two days ago, but I can already feel it looks different, a small 4-6 mm distance made a world of difference in looks. As I said, I am hoping for it to settle a tad short of 9 mm after a few weeks. Then I'll do the alignment and the leveling.
I agree with MiamiDave, the black rubber part was designed for that.
The lowering I did is just enough to remove the 4x4 look without going too low. It clears just fine, the black thing scrapes, but it did that since day 1. I'd say, go for it, 3 turns should be all you need to make the 4x4 look go away.
Is not particularly different that it was two days ago, but I can already feel it looks different, a small 4-6 mm distance made a world of difference in looks. As I said, I am hoping for it to settle a tad short of 9 mm after a few weeks. Then I'll do the alignment and the leveling.
Originally Posted by BigBlue
Let me know how bad you scrape on your driveway afterwards. Our driveway is the same angle and I'm tired of this 4x4 look but no matter how I pull in/out, I scrape the rubber part on the bottom of the front bumper.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
From: Spread The Virus!!!!!!! Opie and Anthony XM Satellite Radio
I am getting very angry 
I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.
I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
RAIDERSFAN, You have to jack up the front spring near the end to relieve the pressure on the lowering bolts, They will almost turn with you`re fingers . But for sure very easy with the 10 mm wrench.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by raidersfan
I am getting very angry I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.
I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.
Yes, you have to relieve the pressure on the spring! The front vs. rears are different! lift the front, get a small jack and a piece of wood and lift the spring just enough to relieve tension on the bolt! It will be so easy to turn, it's not even funny!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by raidersfan
I am getting very angry I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.
I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.You don't need to take the wheels out either. Drive over a set of rhino ramps, use a jack to lift the car from the crossmember just a little bit more so you can fit fine underneath. Use the spare jack to push the black leaf spring up a little bit, just one crank, maybe two. Crawl underneath and locate the bolt and mark one of the 6 points of the bolt with bright red paint to count the turns.
Now, crawl out and go to the side of the car, about 3 feet behind the front wheel. Look from there to where the bolt is underneath, you should have plenty room to wrench it from there. You can also turn the steering wheel a little bit if you want to, just remember to set it straight before you lower the support jack! Anyways, the first half turn will require a bit of effort but the remaining turns will be effortless. I used a 10mm racheted wrench from Craftsman, worked wonders for such a job. Remember to do the turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE
Good luck.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
From: Cerritos CA
Originally Posted by GranBichus
You need to use a spare jack to relieve the pressure from the spring for turning the front bolts!.
You don't need to take the wheels out either. Drive over a set of rhino ramps, use a jack to lift the car from the crossmember just a little bit more so you can fit fine underneath. Use the spare jack to push the black leaf spring up a little bit, just one crank, maybe two. Crawl underneath and locate the bolt and mark one of the 6 points of the bolt with bright red paint to count the turns.
Now, crawl out and go to the side of the car, about 3 feet behind the front wheel. Look from there to where the bolt is underneath, you should have plenty room to wrench it from there. You can also turn the steering wheel a little bit if you want to, just remember to set it straight before you lower the support jack! Anyways, the first half turn will require a bit of effort but the remaining turns will be effortless. I used a 10mm racheted wrench from Craftsman, worked wonders for such a job. Remember to do the turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE
Good luck.
You don't need to take the wheels out either. Drive over a set of rhino ramps, use a jack to lift the car from the crossmember just a little bit more so you can fit fine underneath. Use the spare jack to push the black leaf spring up a little bit, just one crank, maybe two. Crawl underneath and locate the bolt and mark one of the 6 points of the bolt with bright red paint to count the turns.
Now, crawl out and go to the side of the car, about 3 feet behind the front wheel. Look from there to where the bolt is underneath, you should have plenty room to wrench it from there. You can also turn the steering wheel a little bit if you want to, just remember to set it straight before you lower the support jack! Anyways, the first half turn will require a bit of effort but the remaining turns will be effortless. I used a 10mm racheted wrench from Craftsman, worked wonders for such a job. Remember to do the turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE
Good luck.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
From: Spread The Virus!!!!!!! Opie and Anthony XM Satellite Radio
Thanks guys, but I did all of the above! The bolts will not turn at all, they are frozen and will not budge. Any ideas why this may be and what I can do to make them turn? (and before any one makes a smart *** comment, I am not some skinny *** kid without any strength)
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,592
Likes: 393
St. Jude Donor 05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Originally Posted by Eddyd
Granbichus not to hi-jack a thread, but what is a sleepy eyed conversion in your sig & how do you do it. I like it. 
ME TO
