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Lowered... just do it.

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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 02:20 AM
  #1  
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Default Lowered... just do it.

Well, after 2 years and 4 months, I finally decided to take the time to lower my car just a little bit.
I only turned the screws 3 turns CCW on all 4 corners and I am hoping to get somewhere between 6 and 8 mm drop, once the car settles down that is.
If I don't like it, I'll turn the bolts back 1 1/2 turns clockwise. (CW)

Procedure was a walk in the park, took me less about 45 minutes to do it.

Doing this requires a good floor jack, spare jack prefered too, rhino ramps, wood pieces to prevent damaging the aluminum with the jack and the jackstands, and some tire stops to put under the front tires so the car doesn't move when you lift the back. A 10 mm wrench for the front and a 13/16ths wrench and one 18 mm socket for the rear.

For those undecided....

JUST DO IT...

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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 02:38 AM
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did it
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 07:25 AM
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Not to break your stride, but I would go fronts and rears till 1 thread shows up front & two in rear-max drop is .5-.75 of an inch depending. As the car settles (it could take some time and driving) adjust the screws to make sure the car is level (USE a level and yardstick to measure from the fenders, frame near the wheels, and level from the trunk). You can even tailor it to be slightly higher on the driver side (if you drive alone) to compensate for your weight so it ends up neutral.

Once you are happy, get it four wheel alligned with you or ballast in it.

You will love it, the car wil not look lopsided, and it will ride on rails. Speaking from experience...
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 09:07 AM
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Yeh, i did mine a couple of weks ago too.

Shahram
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 11:35 AM
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I was debating how many counts, but after seeing on the other 'forum' what somebody ended up getting with just 5 turns, I decided to go for a more conservative '3 turn' approach. On top of that, my 35 degree sloped driveway was 'constantly reminding' me not to lower it too much, unless I wanted to scrape the whole thing.

I'll try the yardstick/level procedure. Thanks, thats a great idea. I also must admit I would've never thought about doing the alignment with me inside: that sounds like a very good idea. Thanks again.

I'll definitively take any improvements in handling, specially if those help fix the wierd gap between the tire and the fender. So far the car is been lowered but I wont be driving it until this coming weekend, and the bad weather hasn't helped it much so far. As a matter of fact, when I finished lowering it, it was raining outside... sadly, I haven't been able to test drive it yet. Good things always take time... they say.

Thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by MiamiDave
Not to break your stride, but I would go fronts and rears till 1 thread shows up front & two in rear-max drop is .5-.75 of an inch depending. As the car settles (it could take some time and driving) adjust the screws to make sure the car is level (USE a level and yardstick to measure from the fenders, frame near the wheels, and level from the trunk). You can even tailor it to be slightly higher on the driver side (if you drive alone) to compensate for your weight so it ends up neutral.

Once you are happy, get it four wheel alligned with you or ballast in it.

You will love it, the car wil not look lopsided, and it will ride on rails. Speaking from experience...
Reply
Old Nov 17, 2004 | 06:03 PM
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I would love to do it too....but.....
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 07:03 PM
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Let me know how bad you scrape on your driveway afterwards. Our driveway is the same angle and I'm tired of this 4x4 look but no matter how I pull in/out, I scrape the rubber part on the bottom of the front bumper.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 08:12 PM
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That scraping is normal. The rubber piece is designed to make that noise and take the hits.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 08:29 PM
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BigBlue,
I agree with MiamiDave, the black rubber part was designed for that.
The lowering I did is just enough to remove the 4x4 look without going too low. It clears just fine, the black thing scrapes, but it did that since day 1. I'd say, go for it, 3 turns should be all you need to make the 4x4 look go away.
Is not particularly different that it was two days ago, but I can already feel it looks different, a small 4-6 mm distance made a world of difference in looks. As I said, I am hoping for it to settle a tad short of 9 mm after a few weeks. Then I'll do the alignment and the leveling.

Originally Posted by BigBlue
Let me know how bad you scrape on your driveway afterwards. Our driveway is the same angle and I'm tired of this 4x4 look but no matter how I pull in/out, I scrape the rubber part on the bottom of the front bumper.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 08:35 PM
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I am getting very angry I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 09:35 PM
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Is the alignment needed even with such a small amount of lowering? Just curious.... I love enthusiastic posts like this!!! Congrats.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 10:03 PM
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RAIDERSFAN, You have to jack up the front spring near the end to relieve the pressure on the lowering bolts, They will almost turn with you`re fingers . But for sure very easy with the 10 mm wrench.
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by raidersfan
I am getting very angry I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.
Yes, you have to relieve the pressure on the spring! The front vs. rears are different! lift the front, get a small jack and a piece of wood and lift the spring just enough to relieve tension on the bolt! It will be so easy to turn, it's not even funny!
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 07:10 AM
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What would lower the front and not the rear do to riding characteristics?
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by raidersfan
I am getting very angry I cant get the front bolts to turn. I used a 10mm wrench and the head stripped. I am thinking of using my acetylene tank and get the bolt red hot and then try to turn it. Any other ideas? BTW I have a '97 C5.
You need to use a spare jack to relieve the pressure from the spring for turning the front bolts!.
You don't need to take the wheels out either. Drive over a set of rhino ramps, use a jack to lift the car from the crossmember just a little bit more so you can fit fine underneath. Use the spare jack to push the black leaf spring up a little bit, just one crank, maybe two. Crawl underneath and locate the bolt and mark one of the 6 points of the bolt with bright red paint to count the turns.
Now, crawl out and go to the side of the car, about 3 feet behind the front wheel. Look from there to where the bolt is underneath, you should have plenty room to wrench it from there. You can also turn the steering wheel a little bit if you want to, just remember to set it straight before you lower the support jack! Anyways, the first half turn will require a bit of effort but the remaining turns will be effortless. I used a 10mm racheted wrench from Craftsman, worked wonders for such a job. Remember to do the turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE

Good luck.
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 08:42 AM
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Granbichus not to hi-jack a thread, but what is a sleepy eyed conversion in your sig & how do you do it. I like it.
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GranBichus
You need to use a spare jack to relieve the pressure from the spring for turning the front bolts!.
You don't need to take the wheels out either. Drive over a set of rhino ramps, use a jack to lift the car from the crossmember just a little bit more so you can fit fine underneath. Use the spare jack to push the black leaf spring up a little bit, just one crank, maybe two. Crawl underneath and locate the bolt and mark one of the 6 points of the bolt with bright red paint to count the turns.
Now, crawl out and go to the side of the car, about 3 feet behind the front wheel. Look from there to where the bolt is underneath, you should have plenty room to wrench it from there. You can also turn the steering wheel a little bit if you want to, just remember to set it straight before you lower the support jack! Anyways, the first half turn will require a bit of effort but the remaining turns will be effortless. I used a 10mm racheted wrench from Craftsman, worked wonders for such a job. Remember to do the turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE

Good luck.
How about REAR? Does it work the same way? And do we really need to realign after the mod?
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 06:49 PM
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Thanks guys, but I did all of the above! The bolts will not turn at all, they are frozen and will not budge. Any ideas why this may be and what I can do to make them turn? (and before any one makes a smart *** comment, I am not some skinny *** kid without any strength)
Thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Eddyd
Granbichus not to hi-jack a thread, but what is a sleepy eyed conversion in your sig & how do you do it. I like it.

ME TO


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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 08:56 PM
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Rust?
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