Power window won't work...need help?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 138
Likes: 2
From: Dallas TX
Power window won't work...need help?
Alright guys, I need your advice. My passenger side window will not roll down or up. I think it needs a new motor. The dealership said the whole window regulator assembly is $297! That's only parts. Has anyone else had a window stop working? I could use some advice on whether to take the door off myself and replace it, or if it's a pretty labor intensive job.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 897
Likes: 0
From: Stormville NY
Having window regulator motors jam was a common problem on 2000 and older vettes. There is a gear within the moter assy. that jams. I was able to get mine to work again sometimes by pounding on the door panel. Finally had it replaced under warrenty.
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 17,101
Likes: 4
From: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
You're dealer is a rip. I paid 19x.xx roughly for mine from the dealership. That is basically cost.
Doing the swap is pretty simple. First thing to do before you even start is to take some electrical/duck tape and make markers for the window glass so you spend minimal amount of time on the realignment. mark vertical as well as horizontal.
Then remove the door panel. It is held in place by a couple of screws by the door pull area and then several plastic screws or whatever you want to call them. Take a butter knife wrap a paper towel or other thin cloth to keep it from marring the door.
THe window is held in by a compressed clamp. You can access the bolts directly by removing a couple of rubber sealant pads on the door panel. They are 10mm or 13mm bolts. Remove glass and lay down on a soft surface.
The reguator assembly is held on in 4 locations. Look at the new one to locate. Also, do not remove the zip tie on the assembly. Undo the electrical conector and pull the assembly out.
Installation is the reverse.
Should take about an hour.
Doing the swap is pretty simple. First thing to do before you even start is to take some electrical/duck tape and make markers for the window glass so you spend minimal amount of time on the realignment. mark vertical as well as horizontal.
Then remove the door panel. It is held in place by a couple of screws by the door pull area and then several plastic screws or whatever you want to call them. Take a butter knife wrap a paper towel or other thin cloth to keep it from marring the door.
THe window is held in by a compressed clamp. You can access the bolts directly by removing a couple of rubber sealant pads on the door panel. They are 10mm or 13mm bolts. Remove glass and lay down on a soft surface.
The reguator assembly is held on in 4 locations. Look at the new one to locate. Also, do not remove the zip tie on the assembly. Undo the electrical conector and pull the assembly out.
Installation is the reverse.
Should take about an hour.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 138
Likes: 2
From: Dallas TX
I just picked up a motor from O'Riley's auto parts for $99! $30 of that was the core charge so if it fits this whole replacement will only cost me $69 bucks. I'm going to get after right now, thats for the advice.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Rogersville TN
Electric window fix.
I had a problem on my 99 C5 passenger window, inop in the full up position.
The IPC showed fault codes for the left and right door modules. The volt
meter showed a voltage drop when the switch was pressed but indicated a reading longer in the down mode.
The dealer said that it needed a new regulator as the gears were broken in the regulator gear box.
I knew this wasn't the problem as I'd already check that part. I didn't need any parts and I think I found the problem.
The up travel stops in the regulator were set too high (by the vender?) and the motor was cable bound in the full up position which over loaded the motor so it wouldn't operate (thermal switch). The spring on the cable sheath was coil bound on the regulator and I had to take the case off the motor and turn the armature to relieve the bind. Vol. 3 chapter 8 in the shop manual didn't cover this adjustment. The glass in the full up position is adjusted with the clamps on the regulator. This window was moving much higher into the weather striping at the roof then on the driver side.
I adjusted the regulator stops and the system has operated properly for severa months now.
Good luck, Curt
Capt. Curtis H. Briggs
Rogersville. TN
The IPC showed fault codes for the left and right door modules. The volt
meter showed a voltage drop when the switch was pressed but indicated a reading longer in the down mode.
The dealer said that it needed a new regulator as the gears were broken in the regulator gear box.
I knew this wasn't the problem as I'd already check that part. I didn't need any parts and I think I found the problem.
The up travel stops in the regulator were set too high (by the vender?) and the motor was cable bound in the full up position which over loaded the motor so it wouldn't operate (thermal switch). The spring on the cable sheath was coil bound on the regulator and I had to take the case off the motor and turn the armature to relieve the bind. Vol. 3 chapter 8 in the shop manual didn't cover this adjustment. The glass in the full up position is adjusted with the clamps on the regulator. This window was moving much higher into the weather striping at the roof then on the driver side.
I adjusted the regulator stops and the system has operated properly for severa months now.
Good luck, Curt
Capt. Curtis H. Briggs
Rogersville. TN
