Clicking right Axle??? upon take off??
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Clicking right Axle??? upon take off??
I have heard of this on C4's but not on C5's? It happens after I come to a stop at a light. I put it in 1st gear and start to take off and I hear a little CLICK coming from the right rear wheel.
If I have the car stopped and I put in reverse and gently ease off the clutch, I can hear the click. Then I put it in first and ease off the clutch and hear the same click? WTF? I am pretty sure it's not the Brake Caliper.
If I have the car stopped and I put in reverse and gently ease off the clutch, I can hear the click. Then I put it in first and ease off the clutch and hear the same click? WTF? I am pretty sure it's not the Brake Caliper.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by C-5 TECH
Either your rear sway bar is not properly torqued or its time to lube the rear axle splines 
thanks!!!
I'll check the swaybars... But I am certain its the axle.. I can almost feel the click being transmitted up the drivetrain to the shifter..
SO is this a normal routine maintenance procedure??
My car is not a daily driver. It's a 2000 with 26,000 miles. Can you explain how to grease the Spline? Got a procedure for it?
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,979
Likes: 5
From: San Diego, CA "leaf" "tee" "e"
Originally Posted by chuckster
thanks!!!
I'll check the swaybars... But I am certain its the axle.. I can almost feel the click being transmitted up the drivetrain to the shifter..
SO is this a normal routine maintenance procedure??
My car is not a daily driver. It's a 2000 with 26,000 miles. Can you explain how to grease the Spline? Got a procedure for it?
I'll check the swaybars... But I am certain its the axle.. I can almost feel the click being transmitted up the drivetrain to the shifter..
SO is this a normal routine maintenance procedure??
My car is not a daily driver. It's a 2000 with 26,000 miles. Can you explain how to grease the Spline? Got a procedure for it?
chuckster, when the dealership worked on my leaking diff, they didn't torque down the subframe bolts, and I was getting a single clunk from the right side when I accelerated or decelarated. It was easy to fix. All I had to do was jack up the rear end one side at a time and torque down a few bolts. If you only check the subframe, there's just four bolts. It'd help if you take the wheel off for whatever side you're doing. I used David Farmer's torque spec cheatsheet as my reference.
Off the top of my head I think you'll need a 22mm deep socket with a 6" and/or 12" extension.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Easy to get at the spline, chuckster. Pull the caliper, ABS sensor plug and ebrake cable off, unbolt the bolts holding the top shock flange and the upper A-arm. When you pull on the rotor/hub assembly, pull horizontally relative to the diff output shaft to minimize the drag on the spline. It pops right out exposing the output shaft and the internal spline on the half shaft. Grease the spline and reassemble with 22 lb. ft. for the shock mounting bolts, 81 lb. ft. for the A-arm bolts and 23 lb. ft. for the caliper slide bolts that go through the bracket. Here are a couple of pics from when we did my bud's diff.
The half shaft is already free here.
This is the left side shaft but is the same.
The half shaft is already free here.
This is the left side shaft but is the same.
Last edited by Patches; Dec 1, 2004 at 12:06 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 754
Likes: 0
From: Livermore CA
I had a similar problem. It turned out to be the large axle nuts had loosened up a bit due to rust etc. Sprayed them with penetrating oil and loosened them, then lubed inside the hub real good and reinstalled them to the proper torque, 125 Ft-Lb I beleive. Took care of the problem.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Originally Posted by Patches
Easy to get at the spline, chuckster. Pull the caliper, ABS sensor plug and ebrake cable off, unbolt the bolts holding the top shock flange and the upper A-arm. When you pull on the rotor/hub assembly, pull horizontally relative to the diff output shaft to minimize the drag on the spline. It pops right out exposing the output shaft and the internal spline on the half shaft. Grease the spline and reassemble with 22 lb. ft. for the shock mounting bolts, 81 lb. ft. for the A-arm bolts and 23 lb. ft. for the caliper slide bolts that go through the bracket. Here are a couple of pics from when we did my bud's diff.
The half shaft is already free here.
This is the left side shaft but is the same.
The half shaft is already free here.
This is the left side shaft but is the same.
PAtches you Rock my friend!!!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver BC
let us know if this fixes it. My '99 with less than 20k on it was doing this a year back. I took it to the dealer (warranty) and they "tightened some things" to make it go away. Now 1 year later and my wheel bearing is going on the same side that the clicking was coming from. Not sure if it is related or not??
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,604
Likes: 396
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by chuckster
I have heard of this on C4's but not on C5's? It happens after I come to a stop at a light. I put it in 1st gear and start to take off and I hear a little CLICK coming from the right rear wheel.
If I have the car stopped and I put in reverse and gently ease off the clutch, I can hear the click. Then I put it in first and ease off the clutch and hear the same click? WTF? I am pretty sure it's not the Brake Caliper.
If I have the car stopped and I put in reverse and gently ease off the clutch, I can hear the click. Then I put it in first and ease off the clutch and hear the same click? WTF? I am pretty sure it's not the Brake Caliper.
Edited: Man the search function on this forum sucks....I can't even find my own posts. Try this one: http://corvettemechanic.com/board/in...1&hl=clicking&
Last edited by SnowyATX; Dec 2, 2004 at 08:05 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,029
Likes: 1
From: Wichita KS
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Originally Posted by PewterC5
Edited: Man the search function on this forum sucks....I can't even find my own posts.
got this: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sear...earchid=614465
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by pewterhdtop
I had a similar problem. It turned out to be the large axle nuts had loosened up a bit due to rust etc. Sprayed them with penetrating oil and loosened them, then lubed inside the hub real good and reinstalled them to the proper torque, 125 Ft-Lb I beleive. Took care of the problem.
Guest
Posts: n/a
WOW...I was just going to post this very same problem. My 2003 18,000 mile MN6 has the same clicking noise when backing up or starting off in 1st gear. A gear head buddy of mine told me to have the u-joints checked out but it seems that could be a waste of labor $$$ for the $60/hr mechanic. I was getting nervous about it until I found this post. Sounds like a fairly simple and cheap fix. I'm going to print this thread and show the mechanic.
