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Ive gotten the old manifold off and removed the coolant lines. I got 2 front coolant pipes, the front one installs fine, the rear is a problem, I cant seem to make it fit! The hose that I blocked off (on the front one it goes into the TB) is hitting a very rigid braided nylon pipe and isnt allowing me to line up the holes! Ive tried every angle but it just wont go! Unfortuntely, the writeup on LS1 How-to was with an F-Body and I dont see the same setup in his pictures.
Another question, does coolant need to FLOW through that pipe? My other alternative would be to cut my old pipe right next to the bolt holes (where the nipples are), weld the ends closed, and bolt them on as two seperate pieces.
That pipe looks like it's the AIR system pipe. You should be able to bend it out of the way. There's a 13mm bolt on the driver side head that holds the AIR pipe in place -- maybe if you removed that you might have better luck (and the pipe might move around a little more). Since that pipe is attached to the driver and passenger side header, I don't know why it's also attached to the head -- there's enough rigidity in it to keep it from moving around.
Alright, I kinda have an idea to chop off the 2 ends of my pipe and just weld the ends closed. That way I wouldnt have to worry about anything getting in the way because the end result would be two very small pieces of pipe.
BUT, I need to know if coolant actually needs to flow from the one hole to the other. The only reason I thought of this is that LS1 How-to talks about an alternative 'plug' that can be used.
When I did mine I had trouble with that also. I took a long screwdriver and wedged it between the hose and the back of the block and just nudged it a little bit so I could get the bolts for the coolant plug in and out.
One cut the hose shorter on the crossover pipe and then block it off.
Or
Two cut out the center section of the tube leaving the two plugs and weld them shut. I found it easier to weld when I clamped them closed first and then welded on the seam.
Two cut out the center section of the tube leaving the two plugs and weld them shut. I found it easier to weld when I clamped them closed first and then welded on the seam.
I would not block flow in the crosstubes. Those are there to allow air bleeding when you drain and refill the coolant. It allows air that rises upwards to make it's way to the tubing you blocked off.
As suggested above, just bend the AIR pipe out of the way enough that you create the clearance you need to get the rear crosstube in.
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