When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm seeing a drop in my readings. I removed a (still in good condition) Westco SVR Audio Series Battery and I was getting a reading in the DIC of 13.5 to 13.9 with just the engine and A/C running. Turn on the Stereo with Sub crankin and it would drop to about 13.2 average with some dips into the mid 12's. Now with the brand new Optima Red Top installed I get a reading of no higher than 13.2 with just engine running...turn on the A/C and Stereo and crank the sub and it hangs around 12.6 on the DIC with dips into the mid 11's.
Is this not a good battery for large AMP powered stereo systems?
Was my Westco the Shiznit? (Still have it in the garage )
Am I being to picky?
Check in Optima users and let me know what you think about this...
You really need a bigger alternator to handle the current demands of your system. The alternator is only designed to provide enough current to run the factory electronics and charge the battery..you have overloaded the alternator. First thing is to upgrade the power wire going from the battery to the alternator and then upgrade wires. There is one from the battery to the engine block, battery to chassis, and one from block to chassis. Upgrade all of those and you will have alot less of a voltage drop.
That seems a bit low. I just went out and checked mine, and at idle, it shows 14.1-14.2. I bought my '01 Z back in Sept. Only had 2900 miles on it. I noticed the battery was low when I stopped to get fuel. It turned over slow. When I got home I put a charger on it for about an hour and checked the voltage of the battery. It was only around 11.5. Battery was bad. I went a bought a Optima Red Top. That was the battery that was in my previous two C5's. Haven't had a problem since. Fire it up and while at idle, use a volt meter and check to see if you have about 14.0 . Just touch the leads of the meter to the posts of the battery. Should be 13.8 to 14.3 or there abouts. Your alt. might be going bad.
Daryl (cwmoss)
Moss is correct. But if the alternator is done it is from the overload. You will still need to do the wire upgrades or you will toast another alternator.
You really need a bigger alternator to handle the current demands of your system. The alternator is only designed to provide enough current to run the factory electronics and charge the battery..you have overloaded the alternator. First thing is to upgrade the power wire going from the battery to the alternator and then upgrade wires. There is one from the battery to the engine block, battery to chassis, and one from block to chassis. Upgrade all of those and you will have alot less of a voltage drop.
Thanks for the tips...but as yo can see I have some SERIOUS cable running already, Altenator tests at 14.0. Could this be a bad battery? The owner before me put the system in the car...he spent about $5,000 on it (amp, sub 1-10", enclosure, mid range speakers and deck) He might have upgraded the altenator at the time...I really don't know? It was a former Chicago Bear..."supposedly".
I should probably go to Pep Boys (where I bought it) and see what they say?
keep the comments coming..
Voltage at the alternator doesn't really mean anything, although 14.0V at the alt seems low. Is this under load? You'd be better off testing AT the load with the system cranked to check your drop.
For everything you ever wanted to know about electrical systems, try this site. I built my electrical system on my '68 Firebird using these guidelines. Lots of reading here: http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.