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Rotors and pads at same time

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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 11:55 AM
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Default Rotors and pads at same time

Best to change the pads, seat them to the old rotors, then change the rotors? Or do the rotors, seat them with the old pads, then change the pads?
Or does it matter?
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 11:58 AM
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Install the new rotors and new brakes then break them in together

VR
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by vetterdstr
Install the new rotors and new brakes then break them in together

VR

That's what I did. Shop(Corvettes of Dallas) had me take it easy for first 500 miles then do a couple of quick stops, 40mph to 0, twice to seat the pads.
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 12:28 PM
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Actually you should break-in new rotors with old pads.

However, if the new pads are a completely different compound then you'd be better off using the new pads with the new rotors.

After the rotors are seasoned then you can install the new pads. And break those in following the instructions that SHOULD have come with the pads.

Otherwise do this:

While the vehicle is stationary, pump brakes to ensure a firm pedal.

Drive the vehicle cautiously to test fit and function.

The brakes should be smooth, with no vibrations, judder, etc.

Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least 10 seconds between each brake application.
Note: The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces.

After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for a few miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.

After the above process is completed, the system is ready for normal use.

Note: When the system achieves elevated brake temperatures for the first time, a slight increase in pedal travel and pedal effort may occur. After this first "fade" and proper cooling, the system will maintain its optimum performance at all temperatures.
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mighty-Mouse
Actually you should break-in new rotors with old pads.
So you recommend changing the rotors first?
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 03Ragtop
So you recommend changing the rotors first?

Yes.
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mighty-Mouse
Actually you should break-in new rotors with old pads.

However, if the new pads are a completely different compound then you'd be better off using the new pads with the new rotors.

After the rotors are seasoned then you can install the new pads. And break those in following the instructions that SHOULD have come with the pads.

Read this informative article: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 01:36 PM
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Anyone know the recommended torque on the caliper bolts off the top of their heads?
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 03Ragtop
Anyone know the recommended torque on the caliper bolts off the top of their heads?
Caliper bracket bolts are 125 ft. lbs (21 mm socket size)
Caliper slide bolts 23 ft. lbs (15 mm socket size)

Always use old pads with new rotors and new rotors with old pads when possible.
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mighty-Mouse
Actually you should break-in new rotors with old pads.

However, if the new pads are a completely different compound then you'd be better off using the new pads with the new rotors.

After the rotors are seasoned then you can install the new pads. And break those in following the instructions that SHOULD have come with the pads.

Otherwise do this:

While the vehicle is stationary, pump brakes to ensure a firm pedal.

Drive the vehicle cautiously to test fit and function.

The brakes should be smooth, with no vibrations, judder, etc.

Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least 10 seconds between each brake application.
Note: The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces.

After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for a few miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.

After the above process is completed, the system is ready for normal use.

Note: When the system achieves elevated brake temperatures for the first time, a slight increase in pedal travel and pedal effort may occur. After this first "fade" and proper cooling, the system will maintain its optimum performance at all temperatures.
Reply
Old Dec 30, 2004 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Richin Chicago
Caliper bracket bolts are 125 ft. lbs
Thanks!
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Mighty-Mouse
Actually you should break-in new rotors with old pads.
Ok, did that yesterday, now for the pads today.
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by vetterdstr
Install the new rotors and new brakes then break them in together

VR
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by USA-VET
Too late. Did the rotors first. Broke them in last night. Doing the pads today.
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 03Ragtop
Too late. Did the rotors first. Broke them in last night. Doing the pads today.
Whatever you did, I hope it all works out the best for you and your car.

VR
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 10:45 AM
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What about if you buy a new car? Should you take out the brand new pads and put in some used ones?
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by wireless
What about if you buy a new car? Should you take out the brand new pads and put in some used ones?
No but it is not the best situation.
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by wireless
What about if you buy a new car? Should you take out the brand new pads and put in some used ones?
I was actually thinking along those same lines last night when I was out doing brake stands. Do NASCAR cars use old pads and/or rotors or are they brand new at the start of a race?
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 11:57 AM
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OE pads go through a grinding process at the factory.


It's the rotors people need to worry about. Most pads are ready to go out of the box, sort of.

Not that pads don't need to be bedded, just not seasoned.

That's the difference. Rotors are virgin.

New pads and rotors can be done, it's just not optimal.


Also, most, if not all at this point, OE run the car on rollers as the last step in the assembly line. This does brakes, tests components, etc.
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