BMR sway bars





http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...&vid=7&pcid=93
I did a little searching and found the following post:
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Here are all the bars I know of that are available for the C-5.
mm/Inches
T-1
F: 38/1.48
R: 27/1.05
Hotchkins
F: 32/1.25
R: 25/1
Xtreme, BRM
F: 32/1.25
R: 21/.80
Z-06
F: 30/1.18
R: 23.6/.93
Z-51
F: 28.6/1.13
01+
R: 23.6/.93
Std
F: 23.1/.91
R: 19.1/.75
From what i have gathered the BRM is solid and all the rest are hollow. I believe the stock bars are hollow also. This makes little difference as the only the outer edge/diameter controls the torsional resistance. Solid is just slightly heavier, cheaper, and easier to work with. If you are a pure racer then the extra cost of hollow makes since, if not then it doesn't matter.
Aggie_Corvette
[Modified by aggie_corvette, 9:48 AM 5/6/2003]
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My question is that since the rear BMR bar is a smaller OD than the stock Z51 bar that I have, would it actually decrease performance by switching to this rear bar? Should I just get the front bar and keep the stock rear or get the set?
Last edited by jdmvette; Jan 1, 2005 at 01:19 AM.
If you install these on a lowered C5 then you will need to cut the front links shorter or the bar will rub on the P/S bellows.
I drive my vette every day also.
Bars really don't affect the ride until you turn and then it's far superior.
Trust me they make a dramatic difference in the ride.





If you install these on a lowered C5 then you will need to cut the front links shorter or the bar will rub on the P/S bellows.
I drive my vette every day also.
Bars really don't affect the ride until you turn and then it's far superior.


Trust me they make a dramatic difference in the ride.

As Aquaman said-they make a difference.
When you hit a chuck hole with your right front wheel and you have no front swaybar at all, the spring and shock for that wheel absorbs the jolt. If you have a stiff bar like a T1, a significant portion of the force of the right front wheel jolt is transfered to the left front wheel where you have another spring/shock assembly that absorbs a pecentage of the jolt that is proportional to the torsional stiffness of the bar.
This effectively stiffens the response to the jolt even though the car is basically driving straight, not cornering.
That's why most owners of heavier bars like the T1 will tell you the staight ahead ride is stiffer.
Those of us who use the T1's are willing to put up with the harsher ride to keeps the wheels flatter for more effective use of the wide tires when cornering. Everything is a compromise in our cars.
T1's with F45 stock springs (the softest springs) actually ride and corner reasonably well, unless your a racer.
Also the T1 bar is a torsional spring that is not dampened too well by the shocks and a heavy jolt to one front wheel results in a cycle or two of torsional vibration of the stiff bar which ever so lightly rocks the car torsionally and is a little disconcerting sometimes.
Roy
Last edited by 7.0sc SuperVette; Jan 1, 2005 at 04:01 AM.
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Hope this helps.....Don't have any experience with the other bars.
Make sure the end links are teflon lined or it will get noisy over time. That may be part of the difference in the cost. They look like a good price, but not sure how a soild bar rate vs a hollow bar in torsion. Seams to me they are a different approach than the others. Thicker up front and thinner in the rear.







I went to Dick Guldstrands Corvette shop in Burbank and he replaced all 4 metal end links-I think they were just tighter clearanced-more precision/cost! I don't think they are Teflon lined but they have been quiet for 15k miles.
Roy






