I was hoping I could get some input from fellow C6 owners on this one. Yesterday, I thought I'd test the "0-60 in 4.3" claim. Now, I know I only have the standard C6 (not Z51 or Z06) with a 4 speed automatic, but it should still be under 5.0, right? Anyway, I was at a red light, and right when it turned green, I punched the accelerator and started the timer simultaneously. When I hit 60, the timer was just hitting 6 seconds! Now, I know this is not very precise, since I couldn't possibly be watching the road, the timer and the speed at the same time, but I figured it was still over 5 seconds. Now, the other caveat is that I checked my oil temp right after this, and it was only at 140 (so not fully warmed up yet).

The other thing is, I'm worried I may have driven it a little too hard during the first 500 mile break in period (too hard to resist the temptation, especially when showing the new car off to friends!). It now has 2200 miles on it. Did I permanently screw up my car? Is there something simple I should check to make sure it's performing properly? Is it really bad to do hard accelerations at cooler engine temperatures, and if so, how hot should it be? How do I get an accurate measurement of its acceleration? Oh, and yes, I ONLY use premium gas (93 octane rating).

Sorry, I'm kind of a dope when it comes to this technical stuff. Prior to buying the Corvette 2 months ago, I drove a Honda, so you must understand that I've never dealt with these kinds of issues before. However, I'd hate to lose off the line to some guy in a Mustang because my Vette is screwed up in some way!

 

I have a C6 Vert A4 with 3.15 rear.

I used my Mr Dyno (MrDyno.com) and did a 0-60 of 4.49 on my 1st try in Competition Driving Mode with only 500 miles on the clock if that.

Make sure you have TC&AH off, press console button twice.

Howard

 

Likely not a thing wrong with your car. First, your method of measuring 0-60 is completely inaccurate. Just reaction time can easily cost 1/2 second, another 1/2 changing your visual focus. Just doesn't work. Second, if you have the base car (as do I), you've got the 2.73 rear which probably adds a second to the 0-60 time (just guessing here). So, I'd say an A4 with the 2.73 rear is going to be over 5 seconds in the 0-60 time, combined with your way of trying to calculate it, you are right in line. Plus, I imagine that 4.3 second time is in a manual with only the very best driver.

 

Your break in would not affect the car in this way.

NEVER put the engine under full load WOT redline situations before the oil temp reachs at least a solid 150 degrees. Metals are more brittle when cold and the valve springs espesially are prone to cracking and breakage if they are not at the proper operating temperatures.

Your timing method is worthless and cannot be counted on to be accurate.

If you want to time it accurately you need to get one of the many available products available that would give you that info. G-meter from Auto Sport would be one option, some here on CF feel it is less accurate than others available but it is cheap and redily avalable.

As suggested above by Yello 03 TC/AH needs to be fully off.

 

that timer might leave a little to be desired,too!

 

The Mr Dyno is only $79 and has dual axis accelerometers.

Measures 60', 1/8, 1/4, 0-any speed, etc....

I think the A4/2.73 would only be off the A4/3.15 by 0.1 or 0.2 at the most.

Howard

 

In addition to the issues that the guys are bashing you about
the speedometer seems to have some lag and you may have actually timed yourself 0-65 or thereabouts.

 

Like I said, "I'm a dope," with respect to car stuff, and I recognized that my measurement was totally off, but unti read these responses, I had no idea they even MADE dynamometers that sit on your dashboard like a radar detector and precisely measure acceleration! How would a normal person even know that such things were sold to the general public??? It's certainly not in the Owners Manual! Frankly, I'm surprised that's even accurate when it's not hard wired into the car's mechanical and electrical system.

Secondly, according to the Mr. Dyno web site, the device is VERY sensitive to inclines, since it adds or subtracts gravity into the acceleration. So, where do you all go for a perfectly FLAT, straight road, where you could test this accurately? And how do you keep the thing perfectly level INSIDE YOUR CAR! I know GM has the proving grounds in Milford, MI, but that's not open to the general public. I don't think the airport will let me use one of their runways. Any other ideas???

Finally, if not breaking in the car properly did not cause any acceleration problems, what did it do? Does it shorten the life expectency of the car? The transmission? The engine? Will this even affect me if I sell the car in about 5-6 years when it has about 50,000 miles on it?

Thanks again for the education, even though some of you are nicer about it than others....

 

Where can you get Mr Dyno for $79? The website says $125. Curious if there's another vendor out there selling for less.

 

I bought mone over a year ago, it was $79 back then.

I liked the fact you don't need a cord, only a battery.

I find the flattest straightest stretch of road I can find, it is not going to be off by very much, 0.1 at the most.

The device makes you level it to 0.00 before you do the run.

drdavidw -

Don't worry so much.

Do your regular maintenance and enjoy the car.

You definitely are not the type to BEAT on your car to the point od destruction.

A quick 0-60 blast, or going WOT for a few seconds is nothing.

Full out 0-top speed runs (where can you do that anyway) before it is broken in is a different story.

The car is under warranty for 3 years, they will fix it anyway even if something breaks.

Howard

 

Breakin on newer technology engines are not nearly as critcal as when you used to have to seat the piston rings to avoid excessive oil usage and blow-by. You had to do that because of the materials in the cylander bores, the piston rings were abrasive to them by nature.

The tolorences are so fine today and the materials matched that I doubt you could have done any damage at all.

Warming up your engine is far more important. Do not stress a cold engine. Remember 150 degrees for the oil temp before you hammer it.

Good Luck!

 

I have been curious about this topic. In an A4, what is the best approach to getting the fastest acceleration from a dead stop?

As a newbie, I assumed that the best thing would be to leave the TC & AH on, then floor it and let the car do it's thing. Not true?

Could someone please explain to a newbie the "how" and "why" of the quickest take off?

JGB

 

TC off and AH off, then just nail it from a dead stop, this will flash the converter and you are gone.

With TC on it will cut power at any wheelspin, a little wheelspin is OK, you just don't want to spin for 20 feet, don't worry our cars with automatics can't do that anyway.

AH you could leave on if you are worried about fishtailing or something unforeseen happening, but best is to leave both off for max acceleration. AH will cut power if the rear gets a little squirelly, again more apt to happen with a 6 speed.

Howard

 

TC off and AH off, then just nail it from a dead stop, this will flash the converter and you are gone.

With TC on it will cut power at any wheelspin, a little wheelspin is OK, you just don't want to spin for 20 feet, don't worry our cars with automatics can't do that anyway.

AH you could leave on if you are worried about fishtailing or something unforeseen happening, but best is to leave both off for max acceleration. AH will cut power if the rear gets a little squirelly, again more apt to happen with a 6 speed.

Howard

 

Thanks, Howard! I'm picking up my car this weekend and look forward to trying it out!

Not to hijack this thread, but could you explain to a newbie what "flash the converter" means?

JGB

 

Let's say a stock torque converter stalls (lets car move at WOT) at 1800rpms.

That means if you nail it from a dead stop, the converter will flash right to 1800rpms and let you fly.

An aftermarket high stall converter might be 2400rpm or even 3000rpms, this will flash even closer to the rpm your engine makes peak torque and power, letting you accelerate faster.

Some people like to keep one foot on the brake and one foot pressing on the gas to bring the rpms up, but I don't think that helps, that is what the converter does anyway.

Howard

 

Hey BHam try Woodward

 

Howard,

Thank you so much for providing this explanation! It was just enough to get me started so I could do my own research. Now that I've learned how a torque converter works, I realize that this is probably very elementary stuff for most Corvette folks.:o Thanks for taking the time to help out a newbie!

For anyone else that is interested, here's a link I found for a good intro to torque converters:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

JGB

 

Actually, I WAS on Woodward when I tried testing the acceleration in the first place. Although it appears flat, it's actually not perfectly flat, nor is it perfectly straight. Also, there are too many people entering on to Woodward from parking lots and boulevard turns EVERYWHERE. It's a little too busy for this kind of test (except maybe at 4 AM).

 

JGB -

How a Torque Converter works is far from ELEMENTARY...

I still don't quite understand it, but I did my best to give you my LIMITED knowledge on how it works.

Although it is not 100% correct, it gives a pretty good idea on how it functions.

I would venture to say, out of 100 GEARHEADS, maybe ONE understands the concept correctly, some have a BASIC idea like I do, and everyone else has no clue.

I am glad I was able to help a little bit and get you to research the correct info.

Now I am going to check out that link.

Howard