No, there is no separate fuse for DRL in the C6. The same fuse and wire carries the DRL voltage and the turn signal voltage. The computer decides whether to burn the bright filament steadily or blink it depending on what you do with the turn signal stalk.

There is a second wire, because the bulb is a dual filament bulb. But that second wire is for the dimmer of the two filaments, which serves as your parking lights. That is on a separate fuse, but it won't help us with the DRL/turn signal problem.

(Of course there's a third wire too, that's common ground for both filaments of the bulb.)

No, its a loose fitting socket. On some cars, the bulbs don't snap securely into the sockets. That generates heat, which eventually burns up the socket. GM replaces the whole harness rather than just the faulty sockets because doing the latter would require the dealer mechanic to splice wires, and apparently GM doesn't have a lot of faith in dealer mechanics' ability to do that.

But if the bulb snaps securely into the socket, and the socket doesn't appear burnt, changing the harness is a waste of time and effort. Just use some bulb grease on the replacement bulb (improves heatsinking), and all will be as well as can be expected in a design that continuously burns a bulb which is only designed by the bulb makers for intermittant operation.

 

GM's bulb is just a more expensive equivalent of the common 3057NA. It is supposed to be a longer life bulb, but from common experience I'd say it isn't enough longer lived to make any practical difference. Since you're going to be changing them often anyway, might as well use the less expensive bulbs.

 

If I have another burn out soon I am going to insist on that harness fix from Chevrolet and hopefully it is free or under warranty. .

 

Unless the existing sockets are burnt, it won't help.

 

I agree with everything shopdog has said. I've trained myself to rotate that headlamp switch right after tapping the start button and fastening seat belt. If you learn to do this you'll never have to worry about the sockets, because they'll never get hot. But if you're one of those who like DRL's, di-electric grease helps in those hot sockets. When you replace a bulb, wiggle it side-to-side (while still apart turn on the lights). If it flickers on and off, you'll probably soon have a problem; might be time for a socket. Bending the terminals tighter may work if no socket is available.

 

they have a prblem with the harnesses, they installed a new one for me

 

#05-08-42-009 (Document ID# 1680429)

 

I heard those are more a PIA to change and again very costly $$
Even if you adjust the switch before starting up you will have no lights unless you turn them on manually. Auto is much easier to do but now you have to worry about the low beams along with the DRL's

 

Work is being done under warranty. Not something I would do myself since the front clip has to come off. FWIW, much as we hate taking car to dealer, this kind of warranty work needs to be done at the dealer so that GM gets the feed back that tells them of a recurring problem.

I'm wondering about Shopdog's answer since it appears that all the new GM vehicles are running this DRL light. If he's right, then GM has a huge problem.