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I've been babying my car until it "get's up to temp", but my Dad and I just had a conversation about what that meant. He's a former pilot and says that aircraft all-aluminum engines are considered fully warm at 180° and flyable (with associated full throttle operation) at about 80°. I had been holding my rpms down until I reached about 200°.
What's the collective wisdom as to when you are fully warm and can open up the engine some?
I've been babying my car until it "get's up to temp", but my Dad and I just had a conversation about what that meant. He's a former pilot and says that aircraft all-aluminum engines are considered fully warm at 180° and flyable (with associated full throttle operation) at about 80°. I had been holding my rpms down until I reached about 200°.
What's the collective wisdom as to when you are fully warm and can open up the engine some?
It's largely a feel good number. My personal preferance is 140F for full throttle if there's a
reason, 160F for full throtle just for fun.
Maybe this will help you decide. Roughly every 15F drop in oil temperature, the oil acts likes it's one SAE grade thicker. So, SAE 30 oil at 150F has the same actual viscosity as an SAE 50 weight would at 180F. At 135F SAE 30 has about the same viscosity as an SAE 60 at 180F. Those are real rough numbers, plot a viscosity graph for your specific oil and compare if you want closer numbers.
I don't know for sure, but I think that our Mobil 1 is a little thinner at say, 120 degrees, than is dino oil. So maybe we're getting better lubrication earlier, and can give her a little gas earlier.
I like to see my oil temp over 212 degrees F. I have noticed if I baby it, it takes a very long time to get over this temp. If I drive a little more agressive, it get over 212 fairly quickly.
For me, I take it easy until oil temp gets to 180 degrees F.
Before I bought my C6 vert I was thinking about getting a 04 ragtop viper. There was a really nice new one 200 miles away from me. Well before going to look at that one (cos I hadn't really even looked at these cars closely) I went to check out and test drive the same model at a used car lot just 20 miles from away. It was a cold afternoon, and this bright red viper with 4,300 miles on the clock had been sitting idle for about a day or so at least. The helpful young man (sales associate)
fired up this car with me in the passenger seat and as soon as the car started he absolutely floored the gas peddle up and down up and down to the point where I think the rev limiter was kicking in! He then went on to say "best to warm her up a bit and get the juices flowing before we take it out"
I usually take it easy until 155 degrees but so far there hasn't been an instance (3800 miles) where I have had to punch it before operating temp anyway.
I was always taught to let any car warm up before driving. I let mine get to 150 before I pull it out of the garage.I then drive slowly thru the subdividion to warm up the fluids before Hitting the road.My neighbor in his 79 Trans am cranks it hammers it 2 or 3 times and off he goes.
Synthetic oils like Mobil 1 maintain a fairly good residual oil film due to their high film shear strength. Decent lubrication remains after shutdown and due to the low cold viscosity of synthetics it retains great pumpability to even very low temps unlike dino oil. The old rules do not apply if you use a synthetic. Synthetics were developed to eliminate most of the startup wear, loss of lubrication due to low cold flowability that mixed component dino oils exhibit. Once your oil pressure is up to normal, engine wear is negligible regardless. There really is no advantage to long warm ups. Really, you are just wasting fuel. (One caution, don't try this with dino oils.) This is why you should only use a synthetic like mobil 1. Great simple discussion of this topic HERE He also has a full motor oil online book with the technical discussions for you scientificly minded out there : http://www.themotoroilsite.com/forum...=ST&f=29&t=365 (must join 1st -free)
Synthetic oils like Mobil 1 maintain a fairly good residual oil film due to their high film shear strength. Decent lubrication remains after shutdown and due to the low cold viscosity of synthetics it retains great pumpability to even very low temps unlike dino oil. The old rules do not apply if you use a synthetic. Synthetics were developed to eliminate most of the startup wear, loss of lubrication due to low cold flowability that mixed component dino oils exhibit. Once your oil pressure is up to normal, engine wear is negligible regardless. There really is no advantage to long warm ups. Really, you are just wasting fuel. (One caution, don't try this with dino oils.) This is why you should only use a synthetic like mobil 1. Great simple discussion of this topic HERE He also has a full motor oil online book with the technical discussions for you scientificly minded out there : http://www.themotoroilsite.com/forum...=ST&f=29&t=365 (must join 1st -free)
Synthetic oil DOES do a better job of lubricating, especially at temp extremes (high or low). But I like to get everything up to normal temp before stomping on it so that all the dimensions ans clearances are where the designers wanted them.
Synthetic oil DOES do a better job of lubricating, especially at temp extremes (high or low). But I like to get everything up to normal temp before stomping on it so that all the dimensions ans clearances are where the designers wanted them.
In that regard, normal water temp is more important to watch than oil temp. By the time I've gone 3 or 4 miles, water temp is up and I feel free to get on it.
....I also take it easy for about 15 minutes...at wich point it is pretty well at operating temperature...I just like the idea of knowing the tires have warmed up as well...
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