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As much as I hated to do it, I did install a Priority Start after my DBS incident. It's a bandaid solution, but it will prevent a drain and allow you to start your car if something goes wrong. For the $70 or so that these things cost, it's cheap insurance.
Just ordered one - here is the site if anyone needs it:
I haven't had a dbs in my 2005 mn6. My car has sat as long as 3 weeks+ outside in freezing (CT in winter) temperatures. I suspect that there are cars that get it and those that fortunately don't have that problem. I do make sure car is in reverse and that the steering wheel actually locks (rock wheel back and forth), but again I suspect for those that have it is some bad part.
You can't be to safe however I never lock my steering wheel and only use the emergency brake when I on a slope which is rare. The only problem with that is on my MN6 the seat and wheel do not retrack. Eleven months and no DBS. Some have it and some don't. (so far)
I have a 05 6 speed coupe purchased in April 05. I have never had dbs. In fact, I stored the car in a friends unheated garage for the winter (It's been there since the week after Xmas) and went up there last week with a charger expecting a dead battery and the car turned right over. No dead battery in two and a half months of not running. I thought that was pretty amazing considering all the threads about battery issues. Evidently, not all cars suffer the same battery/charging problems. So far, I have a good one. I hope I don't jinx myself now.
While I wouldn't mind having an ammeter too, the voltmeter actually tells you more about the battery and charging system than an ammeter can. That's why the manufacturers changed to a voltmeter from an ammeter. You have to learn how to interpret what the meter is trying to tell you for it to be of any value, though.
Enlighten me . My understanding is that the voltage reading is what is across the battery. So if the alternator is good, you'll see the voltage up around 13-14 vdc, with occasional drops when elec loads come and go. If below 12 vdc constantly, the alt is out of the loop and you're running off the batt. Is there a reading that would tell you that the batt is not taking or holding a charge (excess of 14 vdc constantly?), or otherwise being drained?
Enlighten me . My understanding is that the voltage reading is what is across the battery. So if the alternator is good, you'll see the voltage up around 13-14 vdc, with occasional drops when elec loads come and go. If below 12 vdc constantly, the alt is out of the loop and you're running off the batt. Is there a reading that would tell you that the batt is not taking or holding a charge (excess of 14 vdc constantly?), or otherwise being drained?
A fully charged battery should show 12.6 volts with no load. In order for a battery to be charged, the voltage being generated must be greater than the battery voltage so current flows into the battery. Alternators are designed to operate between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. As long as your volt meter shows voltage in that range, you are not discharging the battery but that doesn't guarantee that the battery is holding whatever charge the alternator is putting into it.
A fully charged battery should show 12.6 volts with no load. In order for a battery to be charged, the voltage being generated must be greater than the battery voltage so current flows into the battery. Alternators are designed to operate between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. As long as your volt meter shows voltage in that range, you are not discharging the battery but that doesn't guarantee that the battery is holding whatever charge the alternator is putting into it.
That's my understanding. So, still no way to tell if battery is good/bad other than a test at a shop (other than the "dead car in the garage" test ). The nice thing about the old amp gauges was that you could see if there was a draw on the elec system when the car was shut down. Can't do that these days.
I just put in the Battery Brain and would like to compare notes with those who put in the Priority Start.
I paid $35 plus shipping for the BB. The Priority Start sells for $85.
There is a wire to keep the BB off when the car is running so it cannot disconnect the battery when driving. There is also an optional wire to keep the radio/clock hot even if the battery is disconnected from the rest of the car. It also comes with 2 remote controls to reactivate after any shutdowns. It can also be used as a battery kill - useful for storage.
According to the Priority Start site, their part will not disconnect the battery on any vehicle that is running. Also, they are pitching an "improved" (and backordered) unit with better electronics and improved drive gear design but at a higher cost.
You can check out your battery without a shop doing it. It is somewhat dangerous as you will have to work with well over 20 amps of current. Also you car's alternator can NOT recharge a completely discharged battery, as it can not put out enough current for a long enough period of time before it burns up. As for the battery lossing it's ability to recharge after deep discharge, under normal conditions with today's OEM batteries it is usually true but it depends on a lot of variables. Lastly from what I have read on this and other forums, the DBS is one of those weird things that GM can't put it's finger one. One of my friends has a new Caddy and it's done the same thing. Also remember I speak from knowing everything about anything, so I am probably either Ensteins bastard child, a politician, or just like everybody else and have learned by the school of hard knocks and big sparks! These battery disconnect devices work well, but for what they have in them, they are expensive, but then again, what is having your car start every time worth?