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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Default Help with brakes...

I would like to send my calipers off to have them powder coated. I'm not a mechanic but I know how to turn wrenches. What I would very much appreciate is if someone could tell me the best source for a step-by-step set of instructions for the removal of the calipers and their re-assembly. My intention is to start with the car firmly set on jackstands. If someone could also tell me where I could get a set of stainless DOT approved brake lines I would appreciate that as well.

I would also hope the instructions would tell me if I would need any special tools or supplies.

Thanks a bunch.
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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The Helm Co now has the shop manuals available. The will tell you everything you need to know about every part on the car.

I have not taken them off of this car yet, but normally there are two bolts and the brake line and you are done. It normally takes longer to get the jack stands under the car than it take to get the parts off.

When you put them back on, you will need to bleed the brakes to get the air out of the system, this you will need a friend for.

TireRack has your brake lines on special!

Last edited by timd38; Apr 30, 2006 at 08:50 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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Thanks. Is there both a Helms maintenance and a shop manual? Do you know which one I need?

Also, do I need anything special to bleed the brakes properly? Do the manuals provide instruction to bleed also?

My concern is the factory manuals will assume a mechanic is reading; I'm a rookie!

Thanks again.
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 09:47 PM
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Here are the basic instructions provided with a rebuild kit. Its got some extra info, but everything you need to know.

As for bleeding, its no different than any other car. These are the best instructions online that I have found:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 11:06 PM
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I did this very thing today, and it wasn't difficult at all. I used the shop manuals for reference, but really that wasn't even necessary. There are basically 3 bolts (and two additional if you also elect to remove the caliper mounting bracket. I had very little fluid leak out, so it wasn't the mess I feared. Of course, the proof will be in how it all goes back together in a couple of weeks
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rockywoody
I did this very thing today, and it wasn't difficult at all. I used the shop manuals for reference, but really that wasn't even necessary. There are basically 3 bolts (and two additional if you also elect to remove the caliper mounting bracket. I had very little fluid leak out, so it wasn't the mess I feared. Of course, the proof will be in how it all goes back together in a couple of weeks

Did you do anything to prevent losing too much brake fluid?
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 11:18 PM
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nice stuff
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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One other question, after a floor jack is positioned in one of the jacking points, where are the best places to place jack stands?

Will the locations be okay to hold the weight of the car for a week or more?
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by hiznhrz
One other question, after a floor jack is positioned in one of the jacking points, where are the best places to place jack stands?

Will the locations be okay to hold the weight of the car for a week or more?
I have a set of jacking pads from elite engineering. They are awesomely machined aluminum pads for around $35. I place the jackstands under them on the fuel rails. To minimize fluid loss, you can stretch a latex glove over the brake fluid reservoir and put the cap on over it. It will create a vacuum. When I did my own brakes, I had my car on jackstands for over a week and there were no problems with bleeding.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 03:25 AM
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You will need to disassemble the calipers too, the powder coater won't do that for you. Removal is easy enough for a 3 year old to do, but you need to take the calipers apart, remove all o-rings , and use air pressure to remove the pistons without shooting them out of the caliper and busting you in your face.

(seen the facial injury performed, and enjoyed seeing the guy in pain)
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Old May 1, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Smoothie
You will need to disassemble the calipers too, the powder coater won't do that for you.
<----- This powdercoater will, and does.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 10:53 PM
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Default caliper painting 2006 c6 MR

I had my calipers and mtg brackets done at a 1st class body shop .[dark red mtg bracket, lighter red caliper. they left the corvette lettering alone]They sprayed each part with a heat paint, They did not remove calipers ,also they painted the nonfriction surfaces on the rotors gloss black. Looks GREAT! Shop around for a good body and paint shop. cost $500.00
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Old May 1, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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This job was done with base coat/clear coat factory color body paint.Auto body paint is very high heat resistant paint. I brushed this on both the caliper and both the hub / cooling fins of the rotor. It looks great and will hold up forever. It cost me about $40 for the paint and clear at a local body shop. Took me about 8 hrs to do all 4 with cleanup and paint time.

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