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What are the speed ratings? The factory Corvette tires are W or Y rating but alot of replacements are Z rated.
Not sure who you are asking, but I've plugged H, V, Z, Y, and ones (like SUV tires) where they only list a "temperature" like A, B, C. I suppose those were the old "R" rating. I've plugged the original runflats that came on my 99 C5 and also the replacement Nitto 555's that were the last tires on it before I traded it. I have not (yet) plugged any of the tires on my base C6 but I will if I should get a nail in the tread area. I'm sure it will happen eventually. Not sure if that's what you were asking...
What are the speed ratings? The factory Corvette tires are W or Y rating but alot of replacements are Z rated.
W and Y are specific speed tires within the Z rating category, that is anything over 149. It used to be that all the tire makers just lumped them under Z but as the car makers required specific speed tires for performnace vehicles they went to W and Y to have a specific tire for a specific vehicle.
Not sure who you are asking, but I've plugged H, V, Z, Y, and ones (like SUV tires) where they only list a "temperature" like A, B, C. I suppose those were the old "R" rating. I've plugged the original runflats that came on my 99 C5 and also the replacement Nitto 555's that were the last tires on it before I traded it. I have not (yet) plugged any of the tires on my base C6 but I will if I should get a nail in the tread area. I'm sure it will happen eventually. Not sure if that's what you were asking...
Mike
I mean't what are the speed ratings letters = to in MPH?
Like S is for 112 MPH, H is rated up to 130, V up to 149, then there is Z and whatever comes after that.
I mean't what are the speed ratings letters = to in MPH?
Like S is for 112 MPH, H is rated up to 130, V up to 149, then there is Z and whatever comes after that.
Then with these replacement tires for the Corvette that are rated Z are for 149 MPH + to what MPH?
Does this mean you are shortchanging yourself going down a few speed ratings since I won't be driving at the limits of 186 MPH? Average is 65 MPH for me.
Then with these replacement tires for the Corvette that are rated Z are for 149 MPH + to what MPH?
Does this mean you are shortchanging yourself going down a few speed ratings since I won't be driving at the limits of 186 MPH? Average is 65 MPH for me.
Anything rated Z is 149 to what ever. W and Y were set up for the CAR maker. What you want to avoid is going below Z. W and Y are Z speed rated. I know it is confusing but what do you expect when the car makers get involved.
Anything rated Z is 149 to what ever. W and Y were set up for the CAR maker. What you want to avoid is going below Z. W and Y are Z speed rated. I know it is confusing but what do you expect when the car makers get involved.
On my Five-O it came with VR-rated tires and I switched down to H rated tires for more mileage and since I don't go up into those speeds. Technically am I short changing myself in any AREA that is applicable to my type of driving which is street and freeway no skids, hard turns or burn outs by going to a lower speed rating? I didn't notice any handling differences when I went from V rated to H rated in Five-0 as I don't drive to those extremes or limits.
Some tire sellers won't sell you anything less than what came from the factory but that is just bunk and a liability issue that they need to protect themselves with as it has nothing to do with me from a consumer point of view.
On my Five-O it came with VR-rated tires and I switched down to H rated tires for more mileage and since I don't go up into those speeds. Technically am I short changing myself in any AREA that is applicable to my type of driving which is street and freeway no skids, hard turns or burn outs by going to a lower speed rating? I didn't notice any handling differences when I went from V rated to H rated in Five-0 as I don't drive to those extremes or limits.
It is a trade-off. Longer mileage and better ride quality in exchange for grip and handling. Some people will never notice the change. Some will right away. Depends how you drive. H rated tires typically have harder rubber compounds in the tread and softer sidewalls than V and Z rated tires. However, a lot depends on the qualtiy of the brand. There is a bunch a cheap crappy tires out there that have ratings I would not trust. By the way each tire maker sets his own rating.
It is a trade-off. Longer mileage and better ride quality in exchange for grip and handling. Some people will never notice the change. Some will right away. Depends how you drive. H rated tires typically have harder rubber compounds in the tread and softer sidewalls than V and Z rated tires. However, a lot depends on the qualtiy of the brand. There is a bunch a cheap crappy tires out there that have ratings I would not trust. By the way each tire maker sets his own rating.
This is true each tire company has it own ratings so you can only compare within brands. Well now what tire would make the ride softer so I don't feel every little inperfection in the road? I had Bridgestones RE-92 H rated last time and they were not as bumpy as the Michelin Pilots XGTV4 which ride real real crappy like the car is going to fall apart, it shakes, rattles and rolls roughly.
In the rain will a V rated tire be better than a H rated and H rated will handle better than a S rated in the rain since they are suppose to be stickier rubber compared to their lower speed counterpart??
This is true each tire company has it own ratings so you can only compare within brands. Well now what tire would make the ride softer so I don't feel every little inperfection in the road? I had Bridgestones RE-92 H rated last time and they were not as bumpy as the Michelin Pilots XGTV4 which ride real real crappy like the car is going to fall apart, it shakes, rattles and rolls roughly.
In the rain will a V rated tire be better than a H rated and H rated will handle better than a S rated in the rain since they are suppose to be stickier rubber compared to their lower speed counterpart??
Sticky rubber typically only counts in the dry. When it gets wet you have to look at the tread design and how it evacuates the water. It is really impossible to compare any performance on just speed ratings, there are too many design and quality factors to do a comparison that way. Your best wet weather tires are the family sedan, standard type tire. They are designed with family safety in mind so they are usually very good in wet weather. In most cases as you go up in speed rating you are giving up wet and snow traction, however there are exceptions.
Sticky rubber typically only counts in the dry. When it gets wet you have to look at the tread design and how it evacuates the water. It is really impossible to compare any performance on just speed ratings, there are too many design and quality factors to do a comparison that way. Your best wet weather tires are the family sedan, standard type tire. They are designed with family safety in mind so they are usually very good in wet weather. In most cases as you go up in speed rating you are giving up wet and snow traction, however there are exceptions.
for the info I just need All season tires a good combination of everything.
I'm keeping the factory runflats on my car, but it would be nice to be able to temporarily plug a puncture so I could drive whatever distance is necessary to find a runflat repair shop. 50 miles won't do it on a road trip.
I already keep a compressor in the trunk, so what I'm looking for is a small but good quality plug kit that will actually be useable out on the road; not a monster shop-size kit or a piece of mini-trash that only works on TV. Any recommendations? Thanks.
The best tire plug kit is made by blackjack. The blackjack part number is bjk40. Costs around $40.00 retail but excellent quality. I can email you a 800 phone number if you want to call and buy one.
I spent three days at the Nevada Proving grounds with Michelin Tire Company. We drove everything from passenger cars to triple bottom trailers. While driving at speeds up to 90mph, they used explosive devices to blow out the tires, sometimes front, sometimes rear, sometimes more than one. We were never told what or when something was going to happen. The reason we were there was to learn vehicle dynamics related to tire failures.
During the time I was there, there were Michelin engineers teaching about the dynamics of tire construction, proper tire mounting and proper tire repair. What I learned was that anything that compromised the sidewall or the shoulder of the tire renders the tire non-repairable. Shoulder being the transition from tread to sidewall.
I was also instructed that a good repair on a tire, patch or plug, should be done with the tire removed so one can see the damage to the tire. If the tread separates from the bladder, the tire is non-repairable since the air can "creep" along the bladder and leak someplace else.
What I also learned, both in actual driving and physics is that there is never a reason to loose control of a vehicle due to a rapid air loss in a tire, even an explosive air loss
I know tires are not cheap and they seem to be rather expensive on the Corvette but 600 Dollars seems cheap to ensure your safety. I never replace one tire unless it has under 5000 miles. If I get a nail in the front, I replace the fronts. If I get a nail in the rear, I replace both rears. Seems my family members are very adept at picking up road debris. Last week my wife brought home her Freestyle, which has 18 inch Perelli P7's with the bottom of an old school chair sticking out of the drivers side sidewall.
$147.00 per tire, mounting and balancing for two, a bit over $350.00
I spent three days at the Nevada Proving grounds with Michelin Tire Company. We drove everything from passenger cars to triple bottom trailers. While driving at speeds up to 90mph, they used explosive devices to blow out the tires, sometimes front, sometimes rear, sometimes more than one. We were never told what or when something was going to happen. The reason we were there was to learn vehicle dynamics related to tire failures.
During the time I was there, there were Michelin engineers teaching about the dynamics of tire construction, proper tire mounting and proper tire repair. What I learned was that anything that compromised the sidewall or the shoulder of the tire renders the tire non-repairable. Shoulder being the transition from tread to sidewall.
I was also instructed that a good repair on a tire, patch or plug, should be done with the tire removed so one can see the damage to the tire. If the tread separates from the bladder, the tire is non-repairable since the air can "creep" along the bladder and leak someplace else.
What I also learned, both in actual driving and physics is that there is never a reason to loose control of a vehicle due to a rapid air loss in a tire, even an explosive air loss
I know tires are not cheap and they seem to be rather expensive on the Corvette but 600 Dollars seems cheap to ensure your safety. I never replace one tire unless it has under 5000 miles. If I get a nail in the front, I replace the fronts. If I get a nail in the rear, I replace both rears. Seems my family members are very adept at picking up road debris. Last week my wife brought home her Freestyle, which has 18 inch Perelli P7's with the bottom of an old school chair sticking out of the drivers side sidewall.
$147.00 per tire, mounting and balancing for two, a bit over $350.00
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