To install or not to install, that is the question
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Toms River NJ
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To install or not to install, that is the question
I have a pair of bullets headed my way. I'd like to do the install myself, but i've never done an exhaust install before. What do you guys think? I know a lot of people say it's pretty easy, but my vette is not something i wanna screw up on.
I was thinking i could back the vette up on my rhino ramps to do the work. My biggest concern is removing the stock exhaust, I don't wanna cut it out if possible. Also i dont have airtools.
I'm a young guy, and i want to get more hands on with my car, i've done installs on CAIs and BlowOff Valves on my old car, so i'm not a complete newby.
I'm looking for some advice, a writeup would be great if one exists.
TIA
I was thinking i could back the vette up on my rhino ramps to do the work. My biggest concern is removing the stock exhaust, I don't wanna cut it out if possible. Also i dont have airtools.
I'm a young guy, and i want to get more hands on with my car, i've done installs on CAIs and BlowOff Valves on my old car, so i'm not a complete newby.
I'm looking for some advice, a writeup would be great if one exists.
TIA
#2
Burning Brakes
The main task is being completely comfortable being under the car with the rear of the car jacked up as high as possible while having it set up safely. Also take your time. When you are not in a rush things seem to work out easier, for me at least. You don't need to cut the stock exhaust.
Once you get past this it's not that hard to do following the instructions that come with the exhaust. I'm going off of memory but I believe I had to unbolt a part of the rear sway bar on the right side for the right side stock muffler/pipe to clear. Also I had to unbolt the stock H-pipe in the front and rear to move the H-pipe forward to allow the stock muffler/pipes room to be removed from it.
Once you get past this it's not that hard to do following the instructions that come with the exhaust. I'm going off of memory but I believe I had to unbolt a part of the rear sway bar on the right side for the right side stock muffler/pipe to clear. Also I had to unbolt the stock H-pipe in the front and rear to move the H-pipe forward to allow the stock muffler/pipes room to be removed from it.
Last edited by rfopt; 11-12-2006 at 01:54 PM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Stillwater MN
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm a young guy too (20), but I don't really have much experience with working on cars. I had a body shop install my Bullets and Vararam because I didn't want to mess anything up. I plan on doing the same when I get my Kooks headers.
Last edited by 2008corvette; 11-12-2006 at 01:58 PM.
#5
You'll be able to do it easy on ramps. The hardest part (for me) was figuring out that you have to remove the rear stabilizer bar. Actually, I only removed the driver side end, This allowed all the clearance I needed. Once the driver side muffler was off, the passanger side came out without difficulty. You will have to disconnect the H-pipe, so make sure you have enough clearance at the front of the car. You will have a total of 6 bolts on the stock exhaust to deal with. NOT a difficult mod.
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Toms River NJ
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by tiggerrick
You'll be able to do it easy on ramps. The hardest part (for me) was figuring out that you have to remove the rear stabilizer bar. Actually, I only removed the driver side end, This allowed all the clearance I needed. Once the driver side muffler was off, the passanger side came out without difficulty. You will have to disconnect the H-pipe, so make sure you have enough clearance at the front of the car. You will have a total of 6 bolts on the stock exhaust to deal with. NOT a difficult mod.
Is the stabalizer bar the only thing you needed to remove prior the the stock exhaust removal? And is it just bolted off?
Thanks, anymore tips to install like this will be a huge help
#7
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Dec 2004
Location: Penn Valley California
Posts: 1,075
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Once you unbolt the H-pipe from the cats,move the flanges back,and remove the lower studs in the cat flanges.It will allow you to drop the H-pipe a whole lot easier,and to move it back into place when you reinstall.They unthread very easily.
#8
Here's a video on the Route 66. Should be almost the same install as the bullets.
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1778&video=yes
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1778&video=yes
#10
Racer
Member Since: May 2004
Location: South Park (Pittsburgh) PA
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by StevieK
Here's a video on the Route 66. Should be almost the same install as the bullets.
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1778&video=yes
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1778&video=yes
I do not have a lift and rather than jacking the car way up in the air, I used four jack stands to a height of around 20" to allow easy access to removing the H pipe assembly. You do not have to completely remove the sway bar, just drop it as the video suggests. Lastly, all my installs have been on A6 cars. Rather than removing the left heat shield, I moved the shift lever to S mode and this gave me ample clearance to remove the left muffler and pipe. I don't know about the MN6.
Hope this helps you,
Bob
#11
Originally Posted by tiggerrick
You'll be able to do it easy on ramps. The hardest part (for me) was figuring out that you have to remove the rear stabilizer bar. Actually, I only removed the driver side end, This allowed all the clearance I needed. Once the driver side muffler was off, the passanger side came out without difficulty. You will have to disconnect the H-pipe, so make sure you have enough clearance at the front of the car. You will have a total of 6 bolts on the stock exhaust to deal with. NOT a difficult mod.
Bill
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: North Western Connecticut
Posts: 7,608
Received 94 Likes
on
56 Posts
Originally Posted by wwbill617
When I did mine, I did not totally remove the stabilizer bar. If you loosen the nuts on the end links the whole bar will pivot to one side and drop down enough to get the original pipes out. Be safe, take your time and it will be no problem.
Bill
Bill
#13
Burning Brakes
Take your time, and do it safely. After all is done, you will feel a great since of accomplishment and you will be proud to tell everyone that asks you who did the work that it was you! Nothing like doing things yourself and taking pride in it! GO for it!!
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Toms River NJ
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cthusker
If you do loosen the sway bar make sure you re-torque to spec. If not you can get the dredded sway bar CLUNK! If you don't have the right torque wrench buy one because it will come in very handy for many other jobs on your vette. It's an easy install but allow yourself time. Don't get in a rush. I know folks have done it in under hour but for your purpose you don't care. Just follow the instructions and do it right....
Take your time, and do it safely. After all is done, you will feel a great since of accomplishment and you will be proud to tell everyone that asks you who did the work that it was you! Nothing like doing things yourself and taking pride in it! GO for it!!
#15
Racer
Member Since: May 2004
Location: South Park (Pittsburgh) PA
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by enjoytheview
First off, thanks to everyone. This is exactly why this forum is such a great resource for spreading knowledge about corvettes. With that being said, what type of torque wrench do i need and what am I tightening to? I'm going to see if i can remove the stock exhaust without having to touch the sway bar, although i wanna be prepared to go there.
I know the feeling, and i would much rather be able to acomplish this myself.
I know the feeling, and i would much rather be able to acomplish this myself.
As great as the Forum is, somebody will probably post the torque specs before I can get back to you.
Bob
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Toms River NJ
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by AndysZ
Bolt = 49 lbs
Nut = 70 lbs
Nut = 70 lbs
#19
frats
[SIZE="4"] .
I purchased Corsa w/3.5 touring tips.I have a friend here in Fl. that has a service station,it took approx.40 min max. to install.Corsa sends you a step by step on how to install,you can also go to Eckler's website and they actually have a movie on how and what to do in great detail manual/auto trans. No sweat on Corsa.
I purchased Corsa w/3.5 touring tips.I have a friend here in Fl. that has a service station,it took approx.40 min max. to install.Corsa sends you a step by step on how to install,you can also go to Eckler's website and they actually have a movie on how and what to do in great detail manual/auto trans. No sweat on Corsa.
#20
Racer
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: San bernardino ca
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's a video on the Route 66. Should be almost the same install as the bullets.
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1778&video=yes
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1778&video=yes