Z06 Splash Guard Install-Final Chapter
12-24-2006, 11:25 AM
#24
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Walt
Try dry or rough fitting the right side to give you a hands on feel of how it will conform to the C6 wheel arch contour.
You'll have an idea of how to hold and line up the lower section while pushing the upper section onto the tape and into conformance.
Important to remove all the webbing and bracket from the Z06 guard as this will make the install much easier.
Ed A.
Try dry or rough fitting the right side to give you a hands on feel of how it will conform to the C6 wheel arch contour.
You'll have an idea of how to hold and line up the lower section while pushing the upper section onto the tape and into conformance.
Important to remove all the webbing and bracket from the Z06 guard as this will make the install much easier.
Ed A.
Do you remove the sticky tape that's on the guard from the factory or just put the VHB tape over top of it? Thanks again.
12-24-2006, 11:40 PM
#25
Drifting
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You can leave the factory tape that is along the top that will secure to the upper wheel arch.
I also removed this section and replaced it with the new VHB.
The important area is the wheel arch flange from the bottom to about a third of the way up.
You want to put the VHB in this area in a double row until it tapers to a single row. In essence you're covering the whole flange with the VHB.
This will allow you to secure firmly with initial pressure the area of the guard that would tend to gap.
Did you do a trial fit yet to see how it will conform ?
12-25-2006, 12:37 AM
#26
Instructor
Nice Christmas present
Had the ZO6 guards sitting in the garage for the past six months. I had been waiting for a template, from a particular forum member, to be sent. Please accept my thanks for sharing your success. Merry Christmas to all, or Happy Festivus to the rest of us....
12-25-2006, 02:37 AM
#27
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I've got the Altec guards on the back now and will have to wait till warmer weather (no gargage) to do this mod. But getting everything ready for when it does. Should go smoothly with all this help.
12-26-2006, 11:47 AM
#28
Cruising
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Z06 Splashguards
RBYCC - you rock!! Thank you very much...for blazing this trail and making it easier (possible) for others to follow...last night I trimmed out the webbing and ordered my tape...
12-26-2006, 03:04 PM
#29
Drifting
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It took a week or two to figure out why the guard would gap, but yet still have the ability to press and close the gap.
This meant no trimming but a better securing method.
Rough fit so you can see the "technique" to conform to the C6.
Take your time, install at proper temp and you should be more then satisfied.
Post pix when done !!!
12-26-2006, 03:13 PM
#30
Le Mans Master
12-26-2006, 04:51 PM
#31
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For those who may not care for the "mean" Z06 splash guards look on the C6, or for those who dont care for the mud flap look...
Was thinking myself of going the Z06 guard route but just to give it a try first, I just got done installing Cleartastic (after removing my PipeDreams splash guards) Paint Protection Film (no adhesives needed). Amost invisible save for a bit of edges seen (pics when the sun arrives someday here). Using Zaino Z6 mixed with water 50/50 for the application (rather than a few drops of Dawn mixed to water) it really went on and applied very easy and am quite happy with the results without the flap/guard look.
http://www.cleartastic.com/index.html
Was thinking myself of going the Z06 guard route but just to give it a try first, I just got done installing Cleartastic (after removing my PipeDreams splash guards) Paint Protection Film (no adhesives needed). Amost invisible save for a bit of edges seen (pics when the sun arrives someday here). Using Zaino Z6 mixed with water 50/50 for the application (rather than a few drops of Dawn mixed to water) it really went on and applied very easy and am quite happy with the results without the flap/guard look.
http://www.cleartastic.com/index.html
12-26-2006, 05:42 PM
#33
Burning Brakes
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You can leave the factory tape that is along the top that will secure to the upper wheel arch.
I also removed this section and replaced it with the new VHB.
The important area is the wheel arch flange from the bottom to about a third of the way up.
You want to put the VHB in this area in a double row until it tapers to a single row. In essence you're covering the whole flange with the VHB.
This will allow you to secure firmly with initial pressure the area of the guard that would tend to gap.
Did you do a trial fit yet to see how it will conform ?
I also removed this section and replaced it with the new VHB.
The important area is the wheel arch flange from the bottom to about a third of the way up.
You want to put the VHB in this area in a double row until it tapers to a single row. In essence you're covering the whole flange with the VHB.
This will allow you to secure firmly with initial pressure the area of the guard that would tend to gap.
Did you do a trial fit yet to see how it will conform ?
12-27-2006, 12:10 AM
#37
Burning Brakes
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Here is another tip. I used a Dremel to cut out and grind down the webbing and excess tabs, etc. It works much better than using an exacto knife. But a word of caution if you do use a Dremel, BE CAREFUL as it is easy to make a mistake, then you'll be buying a new splash guard.
RBYCC I do have a question for you though.
Did you use any type of mechanical fasteners on the underside where it curves under and meets up with the factory rear valence?
Thanks
12-27-2006, 10:25 PM
#39
Drifting
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15818636, 15818637, $25.94 each plus shipping from:
Fred Beans (Forum Vendor)
877-942-3267 X-1176
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Speak to Dave Wittlinger
12-27-2006, 10:33 PM
#40
Drifting
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I was trying to figure out where to put the tape, but after going out and looking at it to remove the webbing etc. I understand what you described in the previous post. I also see what you mean by having to manipulate it a little in order to shape it to fit. At first, it seems like there is no chance it will fit, however if you bend it and shape it a little it does fit fine.
Just got to get it to stick quickly !!!
Here is another tip. I used a Dremel to cut out and grind down the webbing and excess tabs, etc. It works much better than using an exacto knife. But a word of caution if you do use a Dremel, BE CAREFUL as it is easy to make a mistake, then you'll be buying a new splash guard.
Material is very soft and isn't hard to remove.
The bracket is installed from the factory with tape, so just slide your knife blade under and it will pop out.
RBYCC I do have a question for you though.
Did you use any type of mechanical fasteners on the underside where it curves under and meets up with the factory rear valence?
Thanks
Did you use any type of mechanical fasteners on the underside where it curves under and meets up with the factory rear valence?
Thanks