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Pressure sensor nut size?

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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 02:16 PM
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Default Pressure sensor nut size?

Ok so I have a slow leak in my driver rear tire. I am thinking about bringing it in to repair tomorrow but someone told me to check to make sure the little nut around the valve stem is tight. Anyone happen to know right off hand what size this is? I don't think I have any open end wrenches in that small of a size and think I am going to pick one up to check that it is tight before I leave my car with the tire shop for a few hours. Thanks for any help.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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You probably want a (deep) socket - not sure what size.

But be careful! The torque specification on that is pretty low, as its easy to break one of those things. The hollow stem won't take nearly as much strain as a bolt of the same size would. You really want it just tight enough to compress the O-ring.

P.S. soapy water around the valve stem will confirm if that's the source of the leak - or help find it if its somewhere else.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 03:50 PM
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7/16"
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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thank you. I will check with soapy water first just in case but if it is leaking there at least I have the size
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JimTN
7/16"
I think 10mm is also appropriate.

Elmer
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
I think 10mm is also appropriate.

Elmer
Have you used a 10mm wrench to do it? I measured with the 7/16". That's actually 11 mm.

EDIT: I just tried the metric wrenches. 10mm will not do it on mine. Takes an 11mm.

Last edited by Vette_DD; Jan 24, 2007 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fright88
Ok so I have a slow leak in my driver rear tire. I am thinking about bringing it in to repair tomorrow but someone told me to check to make sure the little nut around the valve stem is tight. Anyone happen to know right off hand what size this is? I don't think I have any open end wrenches in that small of a size and think I am going to pick one up to check that it is tight before I leave my car with the tire shop for a few hours. Thanks for any help.
THAT"S WHERE MINE WAS LEAKING
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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Please don't use an open end wrench. 7/16 or 11mm is right, dosen't need to be deep socket either. The torque is very, very light, like 15 inch pounds That's just over 1 foot lb. I think. Put it on a nut driver instead of a socket handle.
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by PhotoLad
Please don't use an open end wrench. 7/16 or 11mm is right, dosen't need to be deep socket either. The torque is very, very light, like 15 inch pounds That's just over 1 foot lb. I think. Put it on a nut driver instead of a socket handle.
It's 7/16" or 11mm

The torque, though, is 62 in-lbs. (about 5 ft-lbs.) which is very little torque.

I would pump up the tire to max pressure (44psi on the sidewall - the tire shop puts it in a cage and pumps it up to about 70psi to set the bead), then readjust tire pressure. Hopefully that will seat the grommet/O-ring into the valve stem hole on the inside of the tire. The very low torque on the nut doesn't do much to seal the O-ring - I think the internal tire pressure does most of that.

Bob
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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Ok so when I sprayed it the end of the valve stem bubbled till there wasn't any more soap on it. Very slowly but a bubbly every couple seconds at first. Does it sound like it needs to be tightened?
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by fright88
Ok so when I sprayed it the end of the valve stem bubbled till there wasn't any more soap on it. Very slowly but a bubbly every couple seconds at first. Does it sound like it needs to be tightened?
If the bubbles were coming from the end of the valve stem (and not the area around the base, where it comes out of the hole in the wheel), you may just need to tighten the valve (the core inside the valve stem), or replace it.

The valve should be nickel plated, not brass:



The valve stem on the sensors is aluminum and the brass can have a dissimilar metal reaction and corrode the valve stem.

Bob
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by beezeye
It's 7/16" or 11mm

The torque, though, is 62 in-lbs. (about 5 ft-lbs.) which is very little torque.

I would pump up the tire to max pressure (44psi on the sidewall - the tire shop puts it in a cage and pumps it up to about 70psi to set the bead), then readjust tire pressure. Hopefully that will seat the grommet/O-ring into the valve stem hole on the inside of the tire. The very low torque on the nut doesn't do much to seal the O-ring - I think the internal tire pressure does most of that.

Bob
Thanks for the correct torque specs Bob :o
When our tires got installed last week , I watched and ask how many pounds to set the bead, he said about 35lbs. and had no cage. 70 lbs. just sounds but sounds like you deal with this more often than I
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by PhotoLad
Thanks for the correct torque specs Bob :o
When our tires got installed last week , I watched and ask how many pounds to set the bead, he said about 35lbs. and had no cage. 70 lbs. just sounds but sounds like you deal with this more often than I
You're right - under no circumstances should the owner ever exceed about 40psi (44psi is the max pressure which is displayed on the side of our OE Goodyears).

The tire shops use a lubricant to help get the tire on and off the wheel, and to get the bead to seat properly. If for some reason they have a problem getting the bead to seat, they can put the tire in a safety cage and use an extension on the air hose so they can stand well back and increase pressure, if necessary. But I don't think they normally have to go much over normal inflation pressure.

And, no - I don't deal with this much. So thanks for reinforcing the potential danger of overinflating a tire. There are serious safety consequences to pumping up a tire over normal inflation pressures.

Bob
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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Knowing that you guys were wrong and I was right...

I went back to the car and re-checked the size. I couldn't find my 11 MM wrench. Looked over in the Non-metric wrenches and found my 11mm next to the 7/16. So, sue me! I can't read! The size is 11mm.


You guys were lucky that time

Elmer
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by beezeye
If the bubbles were coming from the end of the valve stem (and not the area around the base, where it comes out of the hole in the wheel), you may just need to tighten the valve (the core inside the valve stem), or replace it.

The valve should be nickel plated, not brass:



The valve stem on the sensors is aluminum and the brass can have a dissimilar metal reaction and corrode the valve stem.

Bob
Can you use a standard valve stem core on these cars? I bought a tightener wrench and it came with a few replacements just in case.
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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fright88
Can you use a standard valve stem core on these cars? I bought a tightener wrench and it came with a few replacements just in case.

anyone know the answer to this?
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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by fright88
Can you use a standard valve stem core on these cars? I bought a tightener wrench and it came with a few replacements just in case.
Per the post that you quoted from beezeye AND from the Factory Service Manual; Use ONLY the specfic valve core.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by haljensen
Per the post that you quoted from beezeye AND from the Factory Service Manual; Use ONLY the specfic valve core.

Ok I guess I mis read it. So it should be a nickel coated valve stem right?
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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how tight should the core screw in? I don't want to strip it out. But last night I was able to do about 5 full turns with 2 fingers. Seemed like it could go tighter but like I said I don't want to strip it out.
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