With my $$$$ CCWs and PS2s coming soon, I have been thinking about "prettying up" my brakes.

I have a 2006 C6 Z51, and as all other C6s do, the rotors rust everytime I wash the car. Now, with my car being a Z51, the "cheap" $400 rotor sets are not an option, my only replacement option is a set af ~$1400 BAER rotors.

I ordered a set of new OEM rotors from www.gmpartshouse.com and they should arrive anyday. I have been looking in my area for someone to zinc plate them before I install them, but am having a hard time finding anyone to do it. So, I found this product here.
It says that it is "a one-step process to effectively dissolve rust and leave a protective zinc-phosphate coating", and that it "also is an excellent metal prep for powder coating and painting".

So, I am wanting to see if anyone has an opinion about how well this would work (long term)? If I am reading it correctly, if used by itself, it should stop the dreaded "rusty drip", but I could also paint the inner "fins" of the rotor with a hi-temp paint also.

What says CF?

Thanks, Shawn

 

Try this:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show..._id=101&arch=1

 

Yeah I read that, I have PMed him to see how it has held up long term, but have not recieved an answer as of yet. Also, EW doesn't sell Oxisolve anymore, it has apparently been replaced with this "Fast Etch" product.

 

Actually, he posted a one-year follow photo just a few days ago. Click here.

Oxisolve is available at many other places, including JC Whitney.

 

why not just paint the rotor? I painted my hats and the edges, and yes the rotor face rusts immediatly after being wet, but once driven its gone. I basically painted all the surfaces the pad jdoesn't touch and it looks pretty damn good. Here is the closest picture I have to see the painted hats:

 

I don't really understand the issue. My method is cheap and simple. Press brake = Rotor clean.

 

It is not the contact surface that is the issue. The most troublesome area is deep down inside the cooling vanes. Another area that can cause this problem is the center of the rotor around the lug holes. Pressing your brake pedal will not clean those areas.

Make any sense now?

 

A lot been said on this, do a search.

 

Maybe, but I don't notice this problem so I guess it doesn't bother me.

 

Not mine:

 

This may be redundant as I didn't read the other links. But this is waht I did. I have pretty much solved this for about 20 bucks. When I changed rotors for the track, I (the z51 rotors) took the stock rotors and and taped off the pad contact surface area, took a small single edged razor blade to cut the obvious wear area, any slight over-spary is gone as soon as the brakes are pressed once re-installed. I painted them a in a base black high temp rated @1800 degrees. I thought about a cast gray (like stock) but I think the black is better with my MR color. I also painted the top rectangular cooling vanes. I then clear coated them with 2 coats high temp 1800 degree c.c. to get rid of the "sprayed look" The c.c. makes all the difference in the world. The key is pulling the rotors (not hard) and taking your time as far as different coats and cure times. I get no rust on the hub and top part of the rotor, The rust from the cross-drilled holes, that act as weap holes for water after washing is VERY little now. I still get the rust haze on the contact area of the rotor, but that's it. Thats gone on a trip up and down the driveway. I drive the car hard at times, so the rotors have take some serious heat. It's been about 8 months now, and they look like day one. Sorry so long, but it's one of the best things I have ever done given the dollar to result ratio. I will post or PM a few pics when I can take a few shots tomorrow.

 

I responded to your PM.. to wit (about a week ago)>>

Good Morning...
How rotors are holding up after the phosphate (OxySolv) treatment...after 3000 miles and a few washings (note: I have NOT used any alloy cleaner as of yet since the treatment...not because I am against using it [P21 or Mothers] but rather because there has not been a need...between the Porterfield R4S brake pads and the Rejex on the alloys the little dust there is comes right off with wiping or soap/water). Anyway things still look good>>>
before

and now


And yes (since there has been quite a bit of discussing plating on the forum) I would agree getting them 'plated' is the better solution but I thought I try the 'cheap seats' approach first...and if it did not work go with the plating.
Michael

 

not that it matters...when i was at the factory to watch my build, all the rotors are totally painted when delivered to BG. the paint is removed from the pad area with a couple applications of the brakes. the point is: don't even bother to "tape" off the pad area when painting.

 

I kinda agree, Thats why I didn't do a real tape off job as I earlier posted. And let the brakes take care of the little stuff. The point I was trying to make is I wanted several coats of paint, and for me at least, several more of clear coat. I didn't want that much of a scrape off issue for the pads and rotors. It seems obvious that this thread demonstates that the Bowling Green rotor painting procedure isn't getting the results most here desire.

 

"It seems obvious that this thread demonstates that the Bowling Green rotor painting procedure isn't getting the results most here desire." i think his car is an 06. they didn't start painting the rotors untill 07 model year,

 

Yes you are correct, it's an 06. I had a light cast gray/silver paint on my rotors before I painted them. Almost primer like. They looked fine in the begining, but soon the rust came. If there is a differerent rotor painting process for 07, I was indeed not aware of that change.

 

there is definately thick grey "paint" on my rotors, almost like they were "dipped".

 

Michael, can you relay the source of the 'OxySolv'?! Thanks.

 

Yes they wrote about adding "some" zinc to the 07's in Corvette Quarterly awhile back. Having had an 06 and now an 07 I can see it's thicker looking paint.

 

EastWood was the source but they stopped carrying it (they told me that the supplier could not fulfill orders...6 month back order) so they switched to a new product>>

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

I have used the new product (doing a restoration on a TR3) and appears to be no different than the OxySolv...
Michael