Anyone used the Hypertech HyperPAC?
One major thing that I noticed is that it does not say anywhere that using the canned tune it is supplied with defeats CAGS or not. While I would not expect the performance from a canned tune to be anywhere near as good as a real tune from an installer, not being able to defeat CAGS makes it sound even less worthwhile.
Anyone have any experience with this unit??
Here is the link for the product-
http://www.hyperpac.com/
part# 83008
Product Features
Drag Strip
Dynamometer
Engine Monitor
Diagnostic Trouble Codes
Dual Fuel Power Tuning
Adjust Transmission Shift Firmness
Adjust The Rev Limiter
Adjust The Top Speed Limiter
Correct for Non-Stock Tires
w/o traction assist 24" - 44"
w/ traction assist 24" - 33"
Cooling Fan Temperatures
Correct for Non-Stock Gears
Adjust Transmission Shift Points
Says its good for 17 Horse/14 ftlbs
Cost : ????? (site does not say)
Worth it ?????????
One major thing that I noticed is that it does not say anywhere that using the canned tune it is supplied with defeats CAGS or not. While I would not expect the performance from a canned tune to be anywhere near as good as a real tune from an installer, not being able to defeat CAGS makes it sound even less worthwhile.
Anyone have any experience with this unit??

Now if that wasn’t enough to sell me on the HyperPAC the dynamometer program sealed the deal. It uses the mass of the vehicle, coefficients of mechanical losses, rolling tire losses, and wind resistance to measure wheel horse power more accurately than some chassis dynos which only approximate or alter one or more of the three parasitic losses.
While not as fun as the drag strip and dynamometer programs the thing I use my HyperPAC for most is its Gauges program. Having already installed an aftermarket tranny temp gauge before receiving my HyperPAC I was already accustomed to keeping an eye on things while driving, but with the HyperPAC it so much easier. With the touch of a finger I can monitor almost any combination of my engine’s functions and view them as a digital or analog readout. The HyperPAC also has a Diagnostics program which can read, give an English language description, and clear DTCs.
Now with ALL of that being said(Sorry for the long post), we know that the HyperPAC isn’t for everyone. That is why we also offer the Max Energy which gives the same performance gains of 17hp and 14tq over stock on a C6. The Max Energy is much more comparable to a Predator, but can be found online for around $380.00
I’m glad you enjoyed your Power Programmer Plus, did you have anything else done to your SS?
Last edited by Darnell; Aug 27, 2007 at 03:18 PM.
I am very interested in this, particularly the power metering and measurement aspect, but the lack of a CAGS disable is a dealbreaker for me. IMO, the biggest benefit of a tune, aside from the increased power, is the CAGS disable feature.
-And I agree that this should not be compared to a predator- like apples and oranges. The predator is strictly a tuning tool whereas the HyperPac seems to have many more features than the predator (and a higher price).
While the HyperPAC does retail for more than the Predator comparing the two is like comparing apples to oranges. The HyperPAC has a touch screen and is a performance automotive computer, which not only offers performance tuning (17hp and 14tq over stock on a C6), but several other features that make it an attractive option for any car guy, my favorite being the drag strip program. Like at the track the HyperPAC uses a “Christmas Tree” style set up to stage and start you. Once you’ve completed a full run a time slip screen comes up and list not only your ¼ mile time, but also 60, 330, 1/8, and 1000 ETs and MPHs that are accurate with in a few hundreds of a 1/10 of times you would get at a track; this is possible because just like the timing equipment at the track, the HyperPAC takes into account both wheel spin and roll-out. As an added bonus you can navigate from the Time Slip screen to a Road Test screen that displays acceleration times in 10 MPH increments much like what see from a magazine testing.
Now if that wasn’t enough to sell me on the HyperPAC the dynamometer program sealed the deal. It uses the mass of the vehicle, coefficients of mechanical losses, rolling tire losses, and wind resistance to measure wheel horse power more accurately than some chassis dynos which only approximate or alter one or more of the three parasitic losses.
While not as fun as the drag strip and dynamometer programs the thing I use my HyperPAC for most is its Gauges program. Having already installed an aftermarket tranny temp gauge before receiving my HyperPAC I was already accustomed to keeping an eye on things while driving, but with the HyperPAC it so much easier. With the touch of a finger I can monitor almost any combination of my engine’s functions and view them as a digital or analog readout. The HyperPAC also has a Diagnostics program which can read, give an English language description, and clear DTCs.
Now with ALL of that being said(Sorry for the long post), we know that the HyperPAC isn’t for everyone. That is why we also offer the Max Energy which gives the same performance gains of 17hp and 14tq over stock on a C6. The Max Energy is much more comparable to a Predator, but can be found online for around $380.00
I’m glad you enjoyed your Power Programmer Plus, did you have anything else done to your SS?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Pardon my ignorance, but where does that 17hp come from Max Energy to the C6? I also noted from the HyperTech website that part#32005 for the LS2 does NOT do anything for the fans, rear gear, shift points/firmness. So what's the point of spending $380.00 for it?





One major thing that I noticed is that it does not say anywhere that using the canned tune it is supplied with defeats CAGS or not. While I would not expect the performance from a canned tune to be anywhere near as good as a real tune from an installer, not being able to defeat CAGS makes it sound even less worthwhile.
Anyone have any experience with this unit??
CAGS IS NO PROBLEM
Pull the #10 fuse and replace it with the 2.2k resistor. I did mine 1000 mi. ago and have experienced no problems. Don't even have to get under the car, no CEL error codes. This works because the circuit is still connected but the 2.2k ohm resistor will reduce the current to a level that's too low to activate the solenoid. I crimped spade type wire connectors to the resistor, cut one ear off each end and pushed the remaining into the fuse slot. Easy, inexpensine and it works!









