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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 01:15 PM
  #1  
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Default Battery drain

With all the talk about C6 battery "irregularities", I am involved in a study of my 08 C6 battery and a deep cycle battery. So far there has been no note worthy results to report. But as time goes on there could be some interesting findings. Bottom line it's too early to make any conclusive findings to report, but a daily log is maintained to report volts, % of charge, and tempature at the time of testing. I know there will be tons of questions, so bring them on. I think I have opened up a can of worms. HH
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 01:18 PM
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If you want to really make it interesting you might want to measure individual circuit drains. This tool makes it easy..



Plugs into individual fused circuits and measures the drain. Only $18

* Original fuse is replaced in-line during testing, thereby maintaining circuit protection.
* Makes circuit testing easier, FUSE BUDDY adapter end is shaped like a fuse.
* Ideal for electrical troubleshooting at the fuse box.
* Can be used to measure all circuit draws up to 20 Amps.
* Can even be used to test parasitic drains (battery drains).
* Measuring range is determined by your DMM - most DMM's have a 10 Amp or 20 Amp test range.
* Measuring Capability: 0 - 20 Amps / 48V DC or AC.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW411.html#1118
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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You are way ahead of me. Any findings on the C6 battery?
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Harry Horchler
With all the talk about C6 battery "irregularities", I am involved in a study of my 08 C6 battery and a deep cycle battery. So far there has been no note worthy results to report. But as time goes on there could be some interesting findings. Bottom line it's too early to make any conclusive findings to report, but a daily log is maintained to report volts, % of charge, and tempature at the time of testing. I know there will be tons of questions, so bring them on. I think I have opened up a can of worms. HH
thanks for taking this on I also have an 08 and am very interested in the results
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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Let forum member timd38 know what you're doing, or trying to do
He probably has the answers already.
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 01:34 PM
  #6  
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I'm going to the garage and get the log. I want to check the dates when I started to date.
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Harry Horchler
With all the talk about C6 battery "irregularities", I am involved in a study of my 08 C6 battery and a deep cycle battery. So far there has been no note worthy results to report. But as time goes on there could be some interesting findings. Bottom line it's too early to make any conclusive findings to report, but a daily log is maintained to report volts, % of charge, and tempature at the time of testing. I know there will be tons of questions, so bring them on. I think I have opened up a can of worms. HH
Thanks . Good job. Looking forward for the results.
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 02:18 PM
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The testing was started on 12-4. But on 12-21 I added a digital multimeter to the study, and not just an energy meter that was on a % scale of 1 to 100%. Also a meter that mesured % of charge was also used. It seems that just opening the door decreases the voltage by .12volts. But 2 minutes later the voltage has increased by .05 volts when tested again. As of 12-21 when the multimeter was started to be used the voltage was 12.66 volts. As of today the voltage is 12.43 volts. The car as not been driven.

The deep cycle battery on 12-21 had 12.67 volts, and today it's 12.62 volts. Do the math, thats only .05 volts difference for the deep cycle as compaired to the Vettes difference of .23 volts. But the car's door have been opened a number of times and the car started once on 12-22.

I can't at this time feel there is a real problem with battery drain.

Any other ideas?
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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yeah, try my perfect, new car, and let it sit w/o a tender for 27 days. it'll be dead, dead, dead. did I mention it won 't start or open the doors w/o the key?
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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AO
I really feel that the cold cranking amps. should be increased to compensate for this lack of non use. This could be the answer to many non starting problems. IMO
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Modshack
If you want to really make it interesting you might want to measure individual circuit drains. This tool makes it easy..



Plugs into individual fused circuits and measures the drain. Only $18

* Original fuse is replaced in-line during testing, thereby maintaining circuit protection.
* Makes circuit testing easier, FUSE BUDDY adapter end is shaped like a fuse.
* Ideal for electrical troubleshooting at the fuse box.
* Can be used to measure all circuit draws up to 20 Amps.
* Can even be used to test parasitic drains (battery drains).
* Measuring range is determined by your DMM - most DMM's have a 10 Amp or 20 Amp test range.
* Measuring Capability: 0 - 20 Amps / 48V DC or AC.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW411.html#1118
Good find, I just wonder if it is the mini fuse like in the C6 or the older larger fuses used in previous GM products?
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Miaugi
Good find, I just wonder if it is the mini fuse like in the C6 or the older larger fuses used in previous GM products?
You can get this in either style. I have one of each!
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Harry Horchler
AO
I really feel that the cold cranking amps. should be increased to compensate for this lack of non use. This could be the answer to many non starting problems. IMO
Hi Harry,
It's believed that a battery will loose from 1%- 2% of it's SOC (State of Charge) each day it's not in use. That is under normal circumstances/conditions. Now, add to the equation a power hungry, high tech car, with a lot of parasitic draws. I beleive it's safe to say under these conditions a battery can loose twice that amount = 2%-4%/day. Let the car sit, without a Tender, for 7 days and it can conceivably loose 28% of it's SOC. Let it sit for 14 days = 56%

I agree perhaps a larger, better battery will help with these DB case's. How well do our OEM batteries actually hold up to multi charge cycles? The DIC, or a digital multi meter, may show they are taking an adequate charge, but are they capable of holding it? More food for thought.

Thanks for taking the time and doing the research.

~AL~
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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AL
I believe we have hit upon it. The OEM battery does loose about that 1% a day, but the SOC also decrease at about the same rate. The only positive factor is that the battery can be recharged many times without too much damage to the state of charge. Bottom line to the power drain to our electronic rich Vette is the battery tender for that longer than normal non use. IMO
HH
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 06:19 PM
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Great thread. I'll look forward to the results of the project.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by last901
Great thread. I'll look forward to the results of the project.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by VettinFan
Hi Harry,


I agree perhaps a larger, better battery will help with these DB case's. How well do our OEM batteries actually hold up to multi charge cycles? The DIC, or a digital multi meter, may show they are taking an adequate charge, but are they capable of holding it? More food for thought.

Thanks for taking the time and doing the research.

~AL~
GM has changed the C6 battery three times since launch. It started with a group 86, went to a T5 in 06 and 07, then changed to group 85 in 08. the 85 and 86 are the same only the posts are reversed. GM has a very clearly defined test regiment that the battery has to pass before it is accepted for production use. The battery is not made to take repeated deep discharges and recharged because it is an SLI battery, not a deep cycle battery.

If you have more than a 45 to 50 milliamp key off draw, you have something on the bus staying on and the battery will go dead.

Batteries are allot like tires, they are heavily influenced by issues that have nothing to do with product. Optima's usually perform better because they can take the cycling better than the OE battery. Just to clarify, if the OE battery is treated the way GM intended it to be treated it is a fine product, but outside issues like BCM staying on, or OnStar keeping modules on, or just lack of driving, kill SLI batteries.

I have a Yellow Top Optima group 35 with a battery tender.

Oh ya, I have a team of battery engineers that work for me and we made 110M car batteries last year, so if you have a logical question, I can most likely get you an answer.

Last edited by timd38; Dec 27, 2007 at 06:35 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by timd38
GM has changed the C6 battery three times since launch. It started with a group 86, went to a T5 in 06 and 07, then changed to group 85 in 08. the 85 and 86 are the same only the posts are reversed. GM has a very clearly defined test regiment that the battery has to pass before it is accepted for production use. The battery is not made to take repeated deep discharges and recharged because it is an SLI battery, not a deep cycle battery.

If you have more than a 45 to 50 milliamp key off draw, you have something on the bus staying on and the battery will go dead.

Batteries are allot like tires, they are heavily influenced by issues that have nothing to do with product. Optima's usually perform better because they can take the cycling better than the OE battery. Just to clarify, if the OE battery is treated the way GM intended it to be treated it is a fine product, but outside issues like BCM staying on, or OnStar keeping modules on, or just lack of driving, kill SLI batteries.

I have a Yellow Top Optima group 35 with a battery tender.

Oh ya, I have a team of battery engineers that work for me and we made 110M car batteries last year, so if you have a logical question, I can most likely get you an answer.
thanks for the info
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 08:42 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by timd38
GM has changed the C6 battery three times since launch. It started with a group 86, went to a T5 in 06 and 07, then changed to group 85 in 08. the 85 and 86 are the same only the posts are reversed. GM has a very clearly defined test regiment that the battery has to pass before it is accepted for production use. The battery is not made to take repeated deep discharges and recharged because it is an SLI battery, not a deep cycle battery.

If you have more than a 45 to 50 milliamp key off draw, you have something on the bus staying on and the battery will go dead.

Batteries are allot like tires, they are heavily influenced by issues that have nothing to do with product. Optima's usually perform better because they can take the cycling better than the OE battery. Just to clarify, if the OE battery is treated the way GM intended it to be treated it is a fine product, but outside issues like BCM staying on, or OnStar keeping modules on, or just lack of driving, kill SLI batteries.

I have a Yellow Top Optima group 35 with a battery tender.

Oh ya, I have a team of battery engineers that work for me and we made 110M car batteries last year, so if you have a logical question, I can most likely get you an answer.
timd38

Great info. What I learned so far to date: very little battery voltage loss during non use, the deep cycle in the non use state has almost no change in it's state of charge, maybe .01 loss in 6 to 7 days.
Let's face it, there are modgules on the car that are in the "standby" mode that have to be powered 24/7.
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