Battery drain

Plugs into individual fused circuits and measures the drain. Only $18
* Original fuse is replaced in-line during testing, thereby maintaining circuit protection.
* Makes circuit testing easier, FUSE BUDDY adapter end is shaped like a fuse.
* Ideal for electrical troubleshooting at the fuse box.
* Can be used to measure all circuit draws up to 20 Amps.
* Can even be used to test parasitic drains (battery drains).
* Measuring range is determined by your DMM - most DMM's have a 10 Amp or 20 Amp test range.
* Measuring Capability: 0 - 20 Amps / 48V DC or AC.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW411.html#1118
The deep cycle battery on 12-21 had 12.67 volts, and today it's 12.62 volts. Do the math, thats only .05 volts difference for the deep cycle as compaired to the Vettes difference of .23 volts. But the car's door have been opened a number of times and the car started once on 12-22.
I can't at this time feel there is a real problem with battery drain.
Any other ideas?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts






Plugs into individual fused circuits and measures the drain. Only $18
* Original fuse is replaced in-line during testing, thereby maintaining circuit protection.
* Makes circuit testing easier, FUSE BUDDY adapter end is shaped like a fuse.
* Ideal for electrical troubleshooting at the fuse box.
* Can be used to measure all circuit draws up to 20 Amps.
* Can even be used to test parasitic drains (battery drains).
* Measuring range is determined by your DMM - most DMM's have a 10 Amp or 20 Amp test range.
* Measuring Capability: 0 - 20 Amps / 48V DC or AC.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW411.html#1118
It's believed that a battery will loose from 1%- 2% of it's SOC (State of Charge) each day it's not in use. That is under normal circumstances/conditions. Now, add to the equation a power hungry, high tech car, with a lot of parasitic draws. I beleive it's safe to say under these conditions a battery can loose twice that amount = 2%-4%/day. Let the car sit, without a Tender, for 7 days and it can conceivably loose 28% of it's SOC. Let it sit for 14 days = 56%
I agree perhaps a larger, better battery will help with these DB case's. How well do our OEM batteries actually hold up to multi charge cycles? The DIC, or a digital multi meter, may show they are taking an adequate charge, but are they capable of holding it? More food for thought.
Thanks for taking the time and doing the research.
~AL~
I believe we have hit upon it. The OEM battery does loose about that 1% a day, but the SOC also decrease at about the same rate. The only positive factor is that the battery can be recharged many times without too much damage to the state of charge. Bottom line to the power drain to our electronic rich Vette is the battery tender for that longer than normal non use. IMO
HH
I agree perhaps a larger, better battery will help with these DB case's. How well do our OEM batteries actually hold up to multi charge cycles? The DIC, or a digital multi meter, may show they are taking an adequate charge, but are they capable of holding it? More food for thought.
Thanks for taking the time and doing the research.
~AL~
If you have more than a 45 to 50 milliamp key off draw, you have something on the bus staying on and the battery will go dead.
Batteries are allot like tires, they are heavily influenced by issues that have nothing to do with product. Optima's usually perform better because they can take the cycling better than the OE battery. Just to clarify, if the OE battery is treated the way GM intended it to be treated it is a fine product, but outside issues like BCM staying on, or OnStar keeping modules on, or just lack of driving, kill SLI batteries.
I have a Yellow Top Optima group 35 with a battery tender.
Oh ya, I have a team of battery engineers that work for me and we made 110M car batteries last year, so if you have a logical question, I can most likely get you an answer.
Last edited by timd38; Dec 27, 2007 at 06:35 AM.
If you have more than a 45 to 50 milliamp key off draw, you have something on the bus staying on and the battery will go dead.
Batteries are allot like tires, they are heavily influenced by issues that have nothing to do with product. Optima's usually perform better because they can take the cycling better than the OE battery. Just to clarify, if the OE battery is treated the way GM intended it to be treated it is a fine product, but outside issues like BCM staying on, or OnStar keeping modules on, or just lack of driving, kill SLI batteries.
I have a Yellow Top Optima group 35 with a battery tender.
Oh ya, I have a team of battery engineers that work for me and we made 110M car batteries last year, so if you have a logical question, I can most likely get you an answer.
If you have more than a 45 to 50 milliamp key off draw, you have something on the bus staying on and the battery will go dead.
Batteries are allot like tires, they are heavily influenced by issues that have nothing to do with product. Optima's usually perform better because they can take the cycling better than the OE battery. Just to clarify, if the OE battery is treated the way GM intended it to be treated it is a fine product, but outside issues like BCM staying on, or OnStar keeping modules on, or just lack of driving, kill SLI batteries.
I have a Yellow Top Optima group 35 with a battery tender.
Oh ya, I have a team of battery engineers that work for me and we made 110M car batteries last year, so if you have a logical question, I can most likely get you an answer.
Great info. What I learned so far to date: very little battery voltage loss during non use, the deep cycle in the non use state has almost no change in it's state of charge, maybe .01 loss in 6 to 7 days.
Let's face it, there are modgules on the car that are in the "standby" mode that have to be powered 24/7.


















