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My wife just purchased a 2005 Arctic White convertible with 8k from a dealership. It looked outstanding at the dealershio but upon closer inspection I have seen some tiny "spots" on the paint. It looks like something with a "rust color" definitely got on the hood and trunk lid. I got some of the spots out with the Mequiars NXT Generation Tech liquid wax but there are others that won't come out. Would a Mequiars "cleaner" wax help?
It might, but go very carefully. Anything you take off can't be put back on, easily. If you're talking about the one step, cleaner and wax together, to my way of thinking that's the next gentlest way to go. Meguiar's also has a FineCut cleaner (no wax or polish in it). That would be the next step after the cleaner/wax. It is soft enough on the finish that again, if you go easy, you can try it out without going the in between step, I'd say.
On second thought, if you have a very good and experienced detail shop, rather than taking a chance, I'd bring the car to them and ask for their advice (first). And if you like what they say, go with it. I think the buffing out bit is (in my mind) the last alternative, but it could be the first one they suggest because it's quick and easy.
For all we know, this could be nothing more than some form of road tar. In that case, I've been counseled to use 3M's Gen. Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (spray) from both paint and detail shops. It is safe for clear coat and I use it for tar and bug removal esp. on rockers.
Probably tiny spots of tar. I have them all over my car too and they are quite difficult to get off because there are so many. A good tar remover (I use the 3M brand) seems to work but it is slow going. One drawback to AW, I guess. Remember a tar remover will also remove the wax so after you get it cleaned off a couple coats of Zaino (or wax of your choice) is needed.
Id give a clay bar a try. A clay bar does a great job of removing surface contaminants. You can apply some polish/wax after you clean the surface with the clay bar.
Id give a clay bar a try. A clay bar does a great job of removing surface contaminants. You can apply some polish/wax after you clean the surface with the clay bar.
Clay bars work wonders on paint imperfections like this.
I don't know anything about clay bars but I assume they are safe for a clear coat finish and I could just treat the area with the remaining spots with the clay bar and follow-up with Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax? Would this be the better alternative to the cleaner wax? And last question, where do you get the clay bar?
Id give a clay bar a try. A clay bar does a great job of removing surface contaminants. You can apply some polish/wax after you clean the surface with the clay bar.
I don't know anything about clay bars but I assume they are safe for a clear coat finish and I could just treat the area with the remaining spots with the clay bar and follow-up with Meguiars NXT Generation Tech Wax? Would this be the better alternative to the cleaner wax? And last question, where do you get the clay bar?
Yep they are clear coat safe. You can get one at any car parts store or Wal-Mart, Target. Yes, I would use the clay bar according to the directions (Meguiars makes one) and follow it up with a coat of NXT. IMO it will work much better than the cleaner wax.
You can get a mothers claybar or meguiars claybar from autozone and walmart.
They will come with a lubricant to use with the claybar.
I personally use a tropicare claybar that is VERY mild and has worked great for me and never once harmed the paint.
I've used the Mother's claybar kit from Walmart. It's a soft/pliable mild clay and will not scratch or introduce marring if used correctly with enough lubricant. The only thing I don't like about it is it's so soft it tends to smear a lot when using the included clay lube from the kit. Last time I tried it the cleanup was a mess.
I prefer Sonus SFX claybars (green) or Zaino Z-18 claybars (red) which IMO are both similar in consistency to the Mother's but do not smear near as much. Any of these three I think are safe though. I wouldn't use any of the grey or purple bars as I think they're more abrasive.
Id give a clay bar a try. A clay bar does a great job of removing surface contaminants. You can apply some polish/wax after you clean the surface with the clay bar.
I agree, if you just purchased the car, take it back to the dealership and allow them to remove it. They should have done it correctly in the first place.
If it's tar, before you clay bar it mix a cup of kerosene in half bucket of water and wet a cotton towel,wring it and wipe. Follow with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze and a good wax. Works for me every time.
Welcome to the down side of a white car-lots of tiny embedded metal and mineral particles that rust/discolor. White cars don't attract these metal particles any more than any other color, but its' just white cars just show em' better! Hot brake dust is the prime contributer. This is the cause of the rough finish feel. The only way you get this stuff off is with a clay bar and lots of elbow grease. I have had the best luck with the Zanio Clay Bar using the Zanio Detail Spray as the lube. Then a couple coats of Zanio will give fair protection. Good luck
Now that you have a WAX on it it needs to be removed before the spot will come out. The wax probably sealed in the spot. Once the wax is off, clay bar, and then re-wax.
Confuscious say, "Novice with Claybar, make very dangerous paint partner!". If you follow the directions and use plenty of liquid (Meguiars Final Inspection works well) to keep the paint surface wet, you should be OK. Sites like Autopia.org or Carcareonline have some good articles. If the spots are fairly extensive, you are in for an extended "bonding" experience with your car. A good detailer (after you've talked to your dealer) might be needed.