DWRHODA

If it's stripped when it comes out it's yours to fix.

JmpnJckFlsh

With aluminum, if the threads are going to strip when the plug comes out, they're just going to strip...it doesn't matter who removes the drain plug or what technique they use. The guy that set up this abortion is the one that replaced the drain plug last. That's why nobody changes my oil but myself.

S2K

Very kind offer, thank you very much.

I actually left before seeing your posts and the others following. Details of my day in the following post. Thanks again for the offer.

S2K

As I mentioned above, I took some earlier advice and decided to go get help. Nothing I could do would even come close to getting that thing to move. The dealer had no time today (great customer service) and a lot of other places were too busy or didn't want to be responsible for any damage. I actually went to a Firestone that I had replace my tires before. They were busy but very nice. They needed an hour before they would have the rack for my car free. In the mean time I went over the my dealer and bought a new plug as it was clear that the one I had was something I would not want to use again. Was just able to get the thing minutes before they closed. The new plug is not magnetic (neither was the old). Not sure why, but it is the correct part.

Got back to Firestone in time for them to get it on the lift. Very nice guys. They needed to use a bit for stripped heads and they were able to get it loose. They took it out quickly and replaced it with my new plug. They also informed me that the new plug is 15mm instead of
13mm like the old one. Damn glad they said something as I didn't have that socket and would have been quite upset to get home only to have to go back out. On the way home I picked up a 15mm 6 point socket for my 3/8 driver.

From there everything went smoothly. My first DIY oil change (after the whole plug incident) went smoothly. I have not seen any leaks, but I will check again in the morning and again after going for a drive. Hopefully everything is set and at least next time I know the plug should come out and I have the right socket.

Thanks again to everyone for pitching in to offer suggestions and help. This board is always at the ready especially for newbie DIY folks like myself.

DaveC6

Great news! We've had a lot of work done at the Canyon Country Firestone over the years. Those guys are real good guys.

gsport

one more idea.... i don't ever use a socket..... use a closed in wrench, you can get it snug up on the bolt and not have to worry about keeping it straight... in fact when i've had a drain plug too tight i've but the wrench on it, hanging straight down, sitting on my butt, i used my foot to push on the wrench.... has worked every time... but, all in all, i'm glad to hear you acomplished your first oil change...

AORoads

Hmm, that's a good idea. On other cars, I've noticed that a wrench actually does stay on the nut better than a socket sometimes. Thanks.

As to OP, glad you got it worked out and really glad it wasn't stripped!!! So the original drain plug was something around a 13 mm and the new one is 15 mm? Interesting. I also thought that Chev. did a running change and replaced the non-mag drain plugs with mag ones. I guess not for all cars.

Sounds like it's all done. Guys on here were terrific, I'd say.

bksnoopy

If you damage or twist that bolt off you will be in big trouble.

JUST ONE MORE TURN ... are famous last words!

I would take it somewhere to get the bolt loose. Just don't tighten the bolt beyond the recommend setting. You will be able to get it out next time you change the oil.

If the bolt is damaged now, get a new bolt to replace it when the oil is changed.

Ben

rws.1

glad you got it sorted

Art Enz

I usually take an 18" iron pipe and put it over the wrench handle for more leverage but you have to be careful not to shear the bolt head off.

HawaiiC6

never had a problem with a box wrench and to the OP glad everything worked out and that the pan hole is not stripped.

loubob57

Glad they got it off for you.

You need to invest in a good set of combination wrenches. Closed on one end open on the other. Much better for a drain plug than a socket.

JmpnJckFlsh

The way GM would typically handle this change is, as long as they have non-magnetic plugs in stock, all their parts catalogs will show the non-magnetic plug as the service replacement part for pre-2007 cars that originally had the non-magnetic plug.

Once their stock of non-magnetic plugs is consumed, they will probably supercede the old non-magnetic plug part number with the 2007 and later magnetic plug part number. Until the non-magnetic part number is superceded, you will have to request the later magnetic plug if that is what you want for a 2005/2006 VIN. For 2007 and later, you should receive the magnetic drain plug without requesting it.

slvr 07

i tip my hat to all C F members, they are always ready and willing to help...

JmpnJckFlsh

I agree with this advice when the plug can be removed with 7"-8" wrench, and that's all I use to remove my drain plugs.

The drain plug should never be so tight that it can not be removed with a standard closed end wrench. DO NOT USE the open end which only gives you contact on two hex faces; use the closed end which gives you wrench contact on all the hex faces...actually it contacts all the corners of the hex because of the tolerances built into the wrench.

When replacing the drain plug, I use a short socket on a torque wrench once it's past finger tight. We have argued here about whether torqueing the drain plug is necessary...some refuse to torque a drain plug. I used to be in that camp, but when you're working with aluminum, why the heck not. I suspect that's why GM started specifying the drain plug torque...too many warranty claims from stripped oil pan threads.

Flyfast

Use a six point socket with a long breaker bar for leverage (1/2 inch drive). once broken loose if it doesn't unthread easily, tighten it back up and take it back to the last place that serviced it. one more reason to always do your own changes. You can crack the oil pan by overtightening this plug. Good luck and let us know what happens.

07c6vette

try using a much shorter socket but with 6 points, seems like you are using a long one in the picture.

twfreightman

It is imprerssive to see how many guys are interested in helping this poor guy get his drain plug out! A credit to the forum!

BUT.......
There might also be a little joke here. How many Vette owners does it take to remove a drain plug?

Ucraz-E

Or you can install one of these and never have to remove your plug again. I had this on my 05 for 36,000 miles with no problems. Soon to be on my 08 when my first change is due.
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Vet

Lots of good advise here.

In addition to making sure you have a 6-point wrench or socket that fits right, the next most important thing that a lot of folks neglect is having good LEVERAGE.

The wrench handle must be quite long, at least 8", but 12"+ is much better. If the handle of your wrench is too short, slip a hollow round bar (piece of pipe, etc) over it to extend it. With proper leverage, it will take very little effort to break the bolt free, thus makes it easy to keep the socket or wrench "square" on the bolt head, avoiding any slipping and/or rounding off of the bolt head.

I'll often even use a 1/2" ratchet drive for situations where a 3/8" drive is typically what might be used because most 1/2" ratchet handles are larger / longer... provides more leverage and better grip.

I can just see someone trying to loosen an oil pan drain plug with an el-cheapo 12-point socket and a tiny thin ratchet handle of only 6" long or less... this would very likely lead to a rounded bolt head and possibly busted knuckles as well. Even if success could be achieved this way, you'd most definitely hurt your hand at the very least pushing so forcefully against a short thin handle.

Many 3/8" ratchets that are sold have very short handles. This spells instant trouble for the average first time DIY person who is not aware of how important leverage is. Short ratchets are good only for situations where only a short ratchet will reach (due to physical restrictions in a given situation), or situations where the amount of torque you're dealing with is very small. Otherwise, your main ratchet wrench should have the longest handle available... and indeed keep a piece of pipe (as an extension) handy in your workshop as well.

Only danger with a nice long ratchet handle for first time DIY people... there will be a much greater chance of over-torquing things and possibly snapping frozen bolts while trying to remove them, or stripping good bolts / threads on the way in.

First time DIYers, it might really pay to have an experienced mechanic walk you through a procedure one time so you can get a good hands-on "feel" for things, learn to handle a wrench, get an idea of what appropriate torque feels like in various situations, etc... might save you a lot of time and money in the long run. Not a bad idea to buy and use a good torque wrench too, at least until you really get the feel for typical proper torque.