Doing My Own Header Install, Few Questions
02-05-2008, 05:43 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Doing My Own Header Install, Few Questions
I've got Stainless Works headers if that helps, and I won't be installing CATS I found this on their website and it is helpful, but I have a few questions. I understand using loctite on the 02 sensor, I have some of that but what is "RTV" on the slip joints and do I really need to TIG weld them? So they don't come loose from cornering? Also how hard is it to remove and put the starter back on? Also what are we looking at for time? Also I don't remember if it came with o2 simulators or sensors (just came in the mail today and I'm not home yet) but is there a way to turn them off with the Diablo Tuner so I don't get the CEL?
-David
-David
02-05-2008, 08:48 PM
#3
Safety Car
David,
I did my Kooks with no cats, I don't believe you need to remove the starter unless the ARH instructions states so, but there is a lot of room to work under there. The hardest part really is jacking the car up and getting it onto jackstands. Go to the Tech section, lots of help there.
On your O2 sensors, you need to use Anti Seize on the threads, you need to be very careful with this as any anti seize gets onto the sensor part and you will be throwing a CEL. If you are going cat delete then just use the rear O2 sensors to plug the O2 sensor holes. You do not have to hook the O2 sensors up to the wires. There is NO simulators (the FEDS stopped companies from making them) *Remember where each O2 sensor came from as they need to go back into the same location.* You do not have to weld anything as everything will clamp into place and it will not come out even in racing or high G turns.
Just watch your alignment of the mid pipes and good luck. Take your time and you can do it.
Oh and you do need a O2 sensor socket which you can get at any auto parts store. I got a cheap one at Checkers.
Other tip reuse your exhaust gasket as they are triple layered.
I did my Kooks with no cats, I don't believe you need to remove the starter unless the ARH instructions states so, but there is a lot of room to work under there. The hardest part really is jacking the car up and getting it onto jackstands. Go to the Tech section, lots of help there.
On your O2 sensors, you need to use Anti Seize on the threads, you need to be very careful with this as any anti seize gets onto the sensor part and you will be throwing a CEL. If you are going cat delete then just use the rear O2 sensors to plug the O2 sensor holes. You do not have to hook the O2 sensors up to the wires. There is NO simulators (the FEDS stopped companies from making them) *Remember where each O2 sensor came from as they need to go back into the same location.* You do not have to weld anything as everything will clamp into place and it will not come out even in racing or high G turns.
Just watch your alignment of the mid pipes and good luck. Take your time and you can do it.
Oh and you do need a O2 sensor socket which you can get at any auto parts store. I got a cheap one at Checkers.
Other tip reuse your exhaust gasket as they are triple layered.
02-05-2008, 08:55 PM
#4
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2005
Location: clarksville tn
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I agree with everything hawaiic6 stated.
I did mine in just over 2 hours it was alot easier than i was expecting. Be careful when jacking your car up and get it as high in the air as you can as this will aid in installing the headers.
also remember when useing antiseize not to torque your headers to what the instructions say, that is too tight. do a search on this forum to find an acceptable TQ setting. If i remember right it is usually around 2 lower than what it call for. example if the instructions state 18 then go with around 15-16. but do a search i may be wrong on the numbers. good luck
I did mine in just over 2 hours it was alot easier than i was expecting. Be careful when jacking your car up and get it as high in the air as you can as this will aid in installing the headers.
also remember when useing antiseize not to torque your headers to what the instructions say, that is too tight. do a search on this forum to find an acceptable TQ setting. If i remember right it is usually around 2 lower than what it call for. example if the instructions state 18 then go with around 15-16. but do a search i may be wrong on the numbers. good luck
02-06-2008, 12:14 AM
#6
Safety Car
Becareful on the torquing of the headers, the torque procedure is 11 lbs first pass then 18 lbs 2nd pass remember the heads are aluminum and can strip easily which is why some guys go lower.
Hint notch the two outside bolt holes on the header gasket so you can slip them into place once you start the bolts in. Be sure to watch the two inside holes as they are staggered and must match the head holes. By doing this you don't have to struggle in trying to hold the gasket and header together to get the two outside bolts in to hold the headers up and in place.
02-06-2008, 07:12 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
I agree with everything hawaiic6 stated.Did mine a couple of weeks ago, I have a short post in the tech section on the install, I finally did get a CEL, going up to Atlanta this weekend to get a chassis dyno tune. Had plenty of room to install the headers, was a bigger problem getting the old manifold off, get a buddy to help you, it'll make getting the manifold down and the header lined up alot easier. Keep us informed on haw the install goes!!! Clamps hold the pipes in place, no need to remove starter!!!
May want to recheck the torques after a week or so!!!!
02-06-2008, 07:19 PM
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Hudson WI
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
David,
I did my Kooks with no cats, I don't believe you need to remove the starter unless the ARH instructions states so, but there is a lot of room to work under there. The hardest part really is jacking the car up and getting it onto jackstands. Go to the Tech section, lots of help there.
On your O2 sensors, you need to use Anti Seize on the threads, you need to be very careful with this as any anti seize gets onto the sensor part and you will be throwing a CEL. If you are going cat delete then just use the rear O2 sensors to plug the O2 sensor holes. You do not have to hook the O2 sensors up to the wires. There is NO simulators (the FEDS stopped companies from making them) *Remember where each O2 sensor came from as they need to go back into the same location.* You do not have to weld anything as everything will clamp into place and it will not come out even in racing or high G turns.
Just watch your alignment of the mid pipes and good luck. Take your time and you can do it.
Oh and you do need a O2 sensor socket which you can get at any auto parts store. I got a cheap one at Checkers.
Other tip reuse your exhaust gasket as they are triple layered.
I did my Kooks with no cats, I don't believe you need to remove the starter unless the ARH instructions states so, but there is a lot of room to work under there. The hardest part really is jacking the car up and getting it onto jackstands. Go to the Tech section, lots of help there.
On your O2 sensors, you need to use Anti Seize on the threads, you need to be very careful with this as any anti seize gets onto the sensor part and you will be throwing a CEL. If you are going cat delete then just use the rear O2 sensors to plug the O2 sensor holes. You do not have to hook the O2 sensors up to the wires. There is NO simulators (the FEDS stopped companies from making them) *Remember where each O2 sensor came from as they need to go back into the same location.* You do not have to weld anything as everything will clamp into place and it will not come out even in racing or high G turns.
Just watch your alignment of the mid pipes and good luck. Take your time and you can do it.
Oh and you do need a O2 sensor socket which you can get at any auto parts store. I got a cheap one at Checkers.
Other tip reuse your exhaust gasket as they are triple layered.
02-07-2008, 06:38 AM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
So far the headers are on the car, the o2 wires are rigged up, I have the x-pipe hooked up, but the pipe that goes from the x-pipe to the catback system isnt long enough 
So I'm going to be taking the supplied pipes to a muffler shop to have them cut in half then I will slide a slightly larger pipe over the cut in half pipe so that I can fully adjust the length I need and clamp it on both ends of the pipe that I slid over the "x-pipe to catback pipe"
PITA
It was also a PITA to remove the stock headers wow did that suck I had to take one of the bolts off that attach the headers to the cats to get enough leverage and those bolts are very corroded.
Other than than smoothish install I guess. I'll let you guys know what happens with that pipe for the catback later today
So I'm going to be taking the supplied pipes to a muffler shop to have them cut in half then I will slide a slightly larger pipe over the cut in half pipe so that I can fully adjust the length I need and clamp it on both ends of the pipe that I slid over the "x-pipe to catback pipe"
PITA
It was also a PITA to remove the stock headers wow did that suck I had to take one of the bolts off that attach the headers to the cats to get enough leverage and those bolts are very corroded.
Other than than smoothish install I guess. I'll let you guys know what happens with that pipe for the catback later today
02-07-2008, 06:48 AM
#11
Team Owner
Sounds like you are deleting the cats-that's why the pipe is too short. Order some high flow cats and everything will be 
02-07-2008, 10:53 AM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
That makes ALOT more sense. I'll swing by a muffler shop and get some longer delete pipes. You have no idea how close I was to just leaving it with no mufflers lol.
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
02-07-2008, 11:17 AM
#13
Team Owner
For anyone else doing headers...I can't recommend THESE http://www.arp-bolts.com/catalog/catalog.html (page 49) enough. Well worth the cost.
02-07-2008, 12:38 PM
#14
Safety Car
So far the headers are on the car, the o2 wires are rigged up, I have the x-pipe hooked up, but the pipe that goes from the x-pipe to the catback system isnt long enough
So I'm going to be taking the supplied pipes to a muffler shop to have them cut in half then I will slide a slightly larger pipe over the cut in half pipe so that I can fully adjust the length I need and clamp it on both ends of the pipe that I slid over the "x-pipe to catback pipe"
PITA
It was also a PITA to remove the stock headers wow did that suck I had to take one of the bolts off that attach the headers to the cats to get enough leverage and those bolts are very corroded.
Other than than smoothish install I guess. I'll let you guys know what happens with that pipe for the catback later today
So I'm going to be taking the supplied pipes to a muffler shop to have them cut in half then I will slide a slightly larger pipe over the cut in half pipe so that I can fully adjust the length I need and clamp it on both ends of the pipe that I slid over the "x-pipe to catback pipe"
PITA
It was also a PITA to remove the stock headers wow did that suck I had to take one of the bolts off that attach the headers to the cats to get enough leverage and those bolts are very corroded.
Other than than smoothish install I guess. I'll let you guys know what happens with that pipe for the catback later today
Damn, sorry I forgot to tell you that you need to layout your new system alongside of you old system to see if it will first line up and the length is correct. I went with the cat delete pipes from Kooks and everything was correct, sorry to hear of your problem.
02-07-2008, 12:43 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
it only took you guys 2 hours??? This is the first mod I want to do to mine
i remember it taking like 5 hours on my ls1 camaro
i thought vette headers where harder?
i remember it taking like 5 hours on my ls1 camaro
i thought vette headers where harder?
02-07-2008, 02:47 PM
#17
Safety Car
Once the entire system is installed hook up your Predator and install the header tune and you won't have any CELs.
Good luck and keep us posted.
02-08-2008, 04:24 PM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
I managed to get it connected all the way but it when I slid the pipe into the mufflers (flowmasters) it wouldn't tighten and would slip out so I zip tied everything together and took it in for some professional help lol.
Now...That thing screams bloody murder when you go WOT. It is controlable under cruising rpms but like I said it is incredible how loud (under certain circumstances
) it is. I love it but the GF hates it. Oh well. Good outcome but it was rough to get to. I would recommend headers to anyone though they sound amazing.
Now...That thing screams bloody murder when you go WOT. It is controlable under cruising rpms but like I said it is incredible how loud (under certain circumstances
) it is. I love it but the GF hates it. Oh well. Good outcome but it was rough to get to. I would recommend headers to anyone though they sound amazing.
