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Yeah, call me cheap, i spent $8 at radio shack and bought some mini fuse taps, a mini inline fuse holder and a toggle switch. I tapped off the NPP fuse, ran some thin speaker wire i had lying around to a switch mounted in the glove box using double sided sticky tape so i didn't have to drill anything. of course there's a 10A in-line fuse. when i want to hear the exhaust, i just open the glove box and flip the switch!
Nice job, yes the DIY manual switch has been around even before my products and the original post was almost 2 years ago. It's a simple concept and I have posted a few DIY's on them
I have nothing against DIY's and have many on my site. You may disagree, but I do have a problem with people looking at what spent many thousands to develop and sell as a commercial product, reverse engineer and post a DIY on it like they discovered something.
FROM MY DIY POST
It all starts with the fuse block located in the passenger side foot well. You just fold down the carpet to access this area.
If you need help, have questions, need parts for your project please feel free to contact me.
I will not post links to non forum vendors as I try to support our vendors and because it's the rules:
You need a switch (wireless or manual)
A mini add a circuit
looks good ed, but doesn't work for us 1lt/2lt cars! so on the 3lt car, if you want to open the exhaust, you have to ride around with a heated seat?
No, the pictures I show are how to wire in a wired or wireless switch. You should alway use the seat heater fuse (it's on every car) since it's only powered with the car on. You don't lose the heated seats or need a 3lt car that is why you use a fuse tap like shown.
Last edited by Pipedreams; Mar 27, 2008 at 02:35 PM.
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No, the pictures I show are how to wire in a wired or wireless switch. You should alway use the seat heater fuse (it's on every car) since it's only powered with the car on. You don't lose the heated seats or need a 3lt car that is why you use a fuse tap like shown.
I gotcha now... you're just using a leg off the heated seat fuse and switching it back into one leg of where the npp fuse. My method i'm using a blown fuse to support the mini fuse tabs and running it to a switch with an inline fuse down the line. either way works!
The problem i had (and this is where i give props to ed's mild2wild wireless switch) is it's almost impossible to route the switch wire from the passenger side to the drivers side in the tiny gaps behind the dash area under the radio. So in turn i mounted the switch inside the glove box.
No, the pictures I show are how to wire in a wired or wireless switch. You should alway use the seat heater fuse (it's on every car) since it's only powered with the car on. You don't lose the heated seats or need a 3lt car that is why you use a fuse tap like shown.
If the analog switch is installed as a loop inline with a 10 amp fuse to both side of the NPP fuse slot. Does it matter if 12 volts are are present at all times? There is zero drain from this simple circuit, if you pull the circuit out, the solenoids do not close, or try to as far as I can tell. I do not have the schematic.
How ya doin' Ed...
Also. it is fairly simple to run the wire and place an analog footswitch into the dead pedal; this was discussed several times 4 or more months ago....
Just wondering...do moderators get paid?
Last edited by Gibson_L5; Mar 27, 2008 at 08:14 PM.
If the analog switch is installed as a loop inline with a 10 amp fuse to both side of the NPP fuse slot. Does it matter if 12 volts are are present at all times?
Your correct, but if you have a choice, why have power running through some DIY wireing and a switch 100% of the time
Your correct, but if you have a choice, why have power running through some DIY wireing and a switch 100% of the time
Wow, you are consistent....why not say, this is the way "I" do it, instead of letting others assume you know what the H#$$ you are talking about.
You have this guy thinking he was wrong, when what he did is FINE....
And you said the same untrue statement back then...enough Thread HOG
Thought Ed was now offering a dead pedal option for those that like that approach? As far as running a wire from one side of the cabin to the other, behind the console/dash area; just tape the wire to the end of a straightened out metal coat hanger and push it through. Any good DIY'er would know that though!
Wow, you are consistent....why not say, this is the way "I" do it, instead of letting others assume you know what the H#$$ you are talking about.
You have this guy thinking he was wrong, when what he did is FINE....
And you said the same untrue statement back then...enough Thread HOG
Bad day? He never said how it wired it, I posted how you can wire with pictures and he made some incorrect assumptions about my wiring. Wire it like you want but if there is no need for power to be present at a switch I opt of a source that is switched.
Thread HOG, I have been called worse, only trying to help out
Last edited by Pipedreams; Mar 27, 2008 at 08:48 PM.
Thought Ed was now offering a dead pedal option for those that like that approach? As far as running a wire from one side of the cabin to the other, behind the console/dash area; just tape the wire to the end of a straightened out metal coat hanger and push it through. Any good DIY'er would know that though!
Not on my web site yet, so PM/Email to order, all items are built to order and take 3-5 days.
All the credit for this one goes to Gary Thompson who installed this on his Z06. "
See and you thought I stole it I even consulted with Gary prior to offering it
Right, I was on Gary's thread, can't seem to find it through the search anymore?
Why would I accuse you of stealing the idea of a DPDT Switchcraft footswitch developed in the early 50's I believe.
Incredible, you needed to consult on a switch.....
Phew....
Good Luck and goodnight....
Last edited by Gibson_L5; Mar 27, 2008 at 09:49 PM.