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Wheel stuck!

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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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Default Wheel stuck!

I was doing some work on the Vette and needed to remove the front stock aluminum wheels for better access. I have never tried to take em off before and the first one came off just fine but the second one wouldn't budge! Tried pulling, pounding, tapping, and lots of other stuff but it wouldn't move at all! Almost seems like its rusted on. I thought about spraying WD40 between the back of the wheel and the hub. Any thoughts on what to do to get it off would be appreciated.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by vettedoogie
I was doing some work on the Vette and needed to remove the front stock aluminum wheels for better access. I have never tried to take em off before and the first one came off just fine but the second one wouldn't budge! Tried pulling, pounding, tapping, and lots of other stuff but it wouldn't move at all! Almost seems like its rusted on. I thought about spraying WD40 between the back of the wheel and the hub. Any thoughts on what to do to get it off would be appreciated.
You can gently lower the car....very slowwwly. The wheel will pop loose. When you reinstall, use some anti-seize lubricant on the back of the wheel...it will come off like butter next time.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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Wheels can stick to the hubs, due to dissimilar metal corrosion layer that occurs between the two. Have had it happen once and never again.

My recommendation is in two parts:

(1) Spray some penetrating fluid between the wheel to hub interface if possible without getting contaminants on the brakes.

(2) With a padded block of wood held firmly against the edge of one side of the wheel, give it a sharp rap with a small sledge hammer (a framing hammer is too light, but recommend against a 16 pound sledge for control reasons).

(3) Or with good boots on, put a towel over the wheel, and kick the living crap out of one side of the wheel.

In cases 2 and 3 above, using the wheel as a fulcrum will generally allow the wheel to pop off.

After that, I have since coated my hubs (after cleaning them up with a wire brush) with a light film of heavy grease. No more problem.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:23 PM
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You can gently lower the car....very slowwwly. The wheel will pop loose. When you reinstall, use some anti-seize lubricant on the back of the wheel...it will come off like butter next time.
I actually tried that but to no avail. I will try the WD40 and then try bustin it loose.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Rhino
Wheels can stick to the hubs, due to dissimilar metal corrosion layer that occurs between the two. Have had it happen once and never again.

My recommendation is in two parts:

(1) Spray some penetrating fluid between the wheel to hub interface if possible without getting contaminants on the brakes.

(2) With a padded block of wood held firmly against the edge of one side of the wheel, give it a sharp rap with a small sledge hammer (a framing hammer is too light, but recommend against a 16 pound sledge for control reasons).

(3) Or with good boots on, put a towel over the wheel, and kick the living crap out of one side of the wheel.

In cases 2 and 3 above, using the wheel as a fulcrum will generally allow the wheel to pop off.

After that, I have since coated my hubs (after cleaning them up with a wire brush) with a light film of heavy grease. No more problem.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:24 PM
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Had that happen on the BMW. Beat the **** out of the wheel (tire) with a rubber hammer and they eventually popped loose. As said above, I lubed the hub contact area and had no issues after.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by danl72
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Rhino
Wheels can stick to the hubs, due to dissimilar metal corrosion layer that occurs between the two. Have had it happen once and never again.

My recommendation is in two parts:

(1) Spray some penetrating fluid between the wheel to hub interface if possible without getting contaminants on the brakes.

(2) With a padded block of wood held firmly against the edge of one side of the wheel, give it a sharp rap with a small sledge hammer (a framing hammer is too light, but recommend against a 16 pound sledge for control reasons).

(3) Or with good boots on, put a towel over the wheel, and kick the living crap out of one side of the wheel.

In cases 2 and 3 above, using the wheel as a fulcrum will generally allow the wheel to pop off.

After that, I have since coated my hubs (after cleaning them up with a wire brush) with a light film of heavy grease. No more problem.
When using the above kicking method, you should put 1 lug nut on a few turns to prevent the wheel from flying off and smashing something.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 03:13 PM
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This happened on my '06 GTO as well. Royal PITA - ended up taking a rubber mallet to the wheels and whaling on them until the wheels popped off the corrosion. Major suckage. I put antisieze on the hubs to keep it from happening again - and traded it in on my '08 C6 a month later.

Technically it worked, since I'll never have to worry about the GTO's wheels sticking to the hubs again...
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