Amanda*Rae

Ok, so I finally got my rims switched out from the chrome motorsports that were pitting in the barrels and have my practically new OE takeoff rims I bought from KYblu on my 2005 now. (which look BEAUTIFUL) thanks Gary!

I know this subject has been beat in the ground and I have searched previous threads and haven't seen anything that resembles my issue here, maybe someone can point me in the right direction...

I don’t know what is going on lately, but now it seems like the active handling is super sensitive and the least little curve sends it into action. I understand that active handling is supposed to kick in when it senses the car is slipping, and applies brake to the needed wheels…when it has been engaging recently I have been in a nice little curve or turning at an intersection, but the thing is…I am not getting on the throttle at all and cornering around the curves like I have in the past week should NOT cause any slippage. I’m talking smooth road and maybe .2 or .3G displayed on the HUD at the time.

I’ve been sitting here at work thinking about this and wondering what could be causing active handling to come on all the time, and then it hit me…active handling wouldn’t be engaging if my car wasn’t slipping. So I guess the question is What would be causing my c6 to loose traction around a curve that I could have took at almost 2x the speed 2 weeks ago no problem.

I know b4 I had my rims switched out I have hit .89G around a curve and she never lost traction and never needed active handling to kick in. Right now I’d be crazy to attempt that.

So whats the deal? Anyone else experience anything like this? I’m driving a Corvette for heavens sake I don’t wanna take curves slower than in my Jeep Cherokee. LoL

Only thing I could think is tire pressure…and I will be checking that as soon as I get to the house this evening. But surely Goodyear would have properly inflated the tires?!?

QbnSuperman

quick question; have you recently used some sort of tire polish? sometimes that drips down on the tread and i've had that stuff stick around (or slip around) for even up to a few miles!

HawaiiC6

Did you check your DIC to see if the TPMS are functioning, I did read in an article that the TPMS have to be reset when rims are changed. Also did you increase the rim size 18/19 to 19/20?

Amanda*Rae

nope dont use any polish on them...i havent used anything but soapy water to clean tires and rims since the swap

i read in this thread ...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2045550

Could this be the case with me? would a sensor that was moved be left out of place when new rims were installed?

jogar80

yea check your pressure. Over-inflated tires slip like crazy

Amanda*Rae

um, the TPMS seems to be working... the next day after i had the tires swapped out it was displaying low tire preasure rear right. and when i added air it went away (was 10lb low)
this happened again so i took it back to Goodyear and they said that it some of the corrosion from the original chrome rims was left on the tire not allowing it to properly seal and was causing it to leak. they fixed it and haven't seen the light for tire pressure since.

btw i just swapped the rims...same tires. (with a lot of miles left on them)

Amanda*Rae

is this something i can do myself? i will reset them just to be safe if i can.

patton

did they swap tire sides. the tire says THIS SIDE OUT

Bobz08C6

Search the posts and videos from BEZ06. You can get a cheap tool here.

http://tpms-usa.store-ateq.com/ATEQ_...vice-cent.html

If the on-line ordering doesn't show $15.00 s & h call them up and you can get the shipping for $15.00

Amanda*Rae

really it says that?

i have seen the rotation directional arrow before but never "this side out"
if you are serious about this i will check it when i get home lol

(if you actually are serious about that im sorry for doubting you I'v been hanging out in OT too long)

Bobz08C6

Also, wheels have a dimension called "offset" that affect handling. It's the distance from the mouting surface to the center of the wheel. Check to see if your wheels match the offset dimension of your OEM's.

AORoads

A lotta things to check. Let's eliminate the easy stuff, like all 4 tires equally and correctly inflated.

Let's try this, too. Are these the original tires that came on the car? Or, are they replacements? Are they one-direction only? If so, are they facing in the right direction?

Finally, as posted above, if asymetric (meaning it can only be mounted with one side pointing out, not necessarily in only one direction), is the arrow pointing toward the front of the car? Or ,as posted above, "this side out?"

Amanda*Rae

Yes these are the runflats that came on the car but i seriously doubt are the originals (at 22k miles) these tires look brand new to me.

The rims i put on my car are the rims that the build sheet says came on my 05 "polished aluminum" 18" front 19"rear.

oh wow, im dying to get home to check all the other things.

NEV3R L8

w/ 22k miles the tires could be going bad just on age alone. Do you know what the tread depth is? Check by using a penny and putting the head down towards the tire. Take a pic and post it. Or maybe you could just try resetting it by taking the battery off it for a lil bit and see if that does anything...Goodluck.

AORoads

thanks, Amanda. And the above re tread depth (altho as you say, it's probably not the original tires) is a good idea, as is the possibility of resetting the system.

Amanda*Rae

will do! which channel/groove should i place the penny in? close to the center of the tire?

i am really doubtful that treadwear of the tires is causing this only because of the drastic change right after my rims were swapped out. but who knows...it wouldnt hurt to know how much life is left in em

texas_c6

I was reading last night in my new Road and Track and they were testing the Pratt and Miller roading going C6R and it had a problem with the traction management, it turned out that the sensors on the rims was not working. It appears that the sensor used for pressure monitoring is also used to check wheel rotation for the traction management system. I do not know much about this, only what I read in the magazine so I could be completely wrong, just thought I would mention it.

blu00rdstr

The computer also calculates speed by tire circumference. Any deviation from what the computer expects all tires to travel, and it thinks the car is about to spin out.

If either front or rear tires have changed their overall diameter, the circumference will be different. Distance travelled will calculate differently for the rpms seen by the computer from actual distance, especially for the outside wheels in turns.

Sometimes the best question to ask is, 'What did you last change when it broke all by itself?'.

C6NRED

Amanda..........are you getting a reading from the TPMS for all four corners when you page through the functions on the dash? If, as the poster above states, the TPMS works off of these and one of them went bad during the change over, it could cause the system to read the rotation of one of the tires as stopped........

Talon.......where are you when we need you? Look up Talon90 and send him a PM if he does not chime in here --- then take his opinion to the bank!

Vet

If this problem started happening right after the rim swap, guaranteed the problem is related to the rim swap.

As for the tires being installed "backwards", unless you are going fast in rain, this should not matter at all. Directional tire patterns exist to help squeeze water out quicker. On a flat dry surface the directional pattern should not make any difference in the amount of available traction. I severely doubt this is the issue.

Even tread depth... on a flat dry surface, even a fairly worn tire should stick ok... maybe not 100%, but it should not cause a serious traction problem overnight. Of course on water, a shallow tread depth can quickly leave you with zero traction... but you did not mention you were specifically driving on water when you were experiencing problems.

Since the tires are the same (after the rim swap), I would not suspect the tires themselves... unless the shop let them soak in a vat of Armor-All overnight or something wacky.

Tire pressure... definitely something to look at. Check with a good gauge, do not trust the TPMs. But I'd think the tire pressure would have to be way out on all four tires to cause an instant change in traction... like over 10 psi or more away from spec.

Someone mentioned that if the tire diameter changed it could throw things off... I am not a tire and rim specialist, but if the new rims are different in such a manner as to change the overall effective diameter of the tires, this could perhaps be an issue.

Active handling comes on when the computer senses that one or more wheels are turning at speeds different than the others, correct? Like recently, I had to stop short on a road surface that had a series of small bumps on just one side of the road... as I slowed down, I could sense that my left front tire started "skipping" - locking as it jumped up and down over the bumps... the other three or two tires were firmly planted... the active handling light came on right at that moment.

With the above in mind, maybe there is an issue with one of your new rims / tires being slightly different in diameter than the other three? If so, you are perhaps always right on the edge of setting off the active handling, so the slightest tiniest skid then trips it off. Just a thought. I don't know why one wheel diameter would change, but... when you drop your car off at a shop, you never know what goes on.

Or... I guess if one tire was inflated way higher than the other three, like if one was at 40+ and the others at 28, maybe this would be enough of a diameter difference to get the active handling to always be right on the edge of getting tripped....??? Just guessing here.

It will be interesting to find out what the problem actually is... please report back once this is solved.



EDIT:
Oops... missed this earlier, just saw it now... I pretty much repeated everything you said... sorry about that! And by the way.... good answer!

Good thought, but if so, wouldn't the active handling be going nuts at all times? The OP's car seems to run "normally" other than tripping active handling "earlier" (in terms of Gs) than it should be tripped.... as opposed to a full-on malfunction.