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You can open up the shroud several different ways. You can cut sections out but I decided to just disconnect the shroud down low and use a toggle bolt to push it back and create a small scoop effect down there. That way I can put it bacl to stock if I ever need too. There is a cool little video of the install on their website. It really is that easy to install.
You can open up the shroud several different ways. You can cut sections out but I decided to just disconnect the shroud down low and use a toggle bolt to push it back and create a small scoop effect down there. That way I can put it bacl to stock if I ever need too. There is a cool little video of the install on their website. It really is that easy to install.
Your the guy I'm really looking forward to you posting your SOTP review of this mod. Make sure you go over to the mod section and post your review in the thread I have over there too. What vendor did you buy from?
Mike http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1566051634
Your the guy I'm really looking forward to you posting your SOTP review of this mod. Make sure you go over to the mod section and post your review in the thread I have over there too. What vendor did you buy from?
Mike http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1566051634
Hi Mike
I just got back from my test ride and unless my SOTP meter needs some serious adjustments this combination will test out really well on a dyno
I then took the old turkey thermometer and cracked the hood open. I let it sit under the hood for about 3 minutes and the temp under the hood was 160+, I then took it outside to cool off and then slid it in under the beehive next to the Killer bee for 3 minutes, it never went over 110, it was probably much cooler in that compartment while driving !!! Just to make sure it had not cooled too much under the hood I checked that again and it was still over 160. I'm not an expert but I do know these things like colder air
I just got back from my test ride and unless my SOTP meter needs some serious adjustments this combination will test out really well on a dyno
I then took the old turkey thermometer and cracked the hood open. I let it sit under the hood for about 3 minutes and the temp under the hood was 160+, I then took it outside too cool off and then slid it in under the beehive next to the Killer bee for 3 minutes, it never went over 110, it was probably much cooler in that compartment while driving !!! Just to make sure it had not cooled too much under the hood I checked that again and it was still over 160. I'm not an expert but I do know these things like colder air
If I had to do it all over again I would
Bill
Just curious - do you need to re-tune the engine with this install to prevent any unwanted MAF issues or the like? my '08 required some work to keep the sensor within range and that was just from airflow in the stock configuration.
Just curious - do you need to re-tune the engine with this install to prevent any unwanted MAF issues or the like? my '08 required some work to keep the sensor within range and that was just from airflow in the stock configuration.
People who know much more than me will say that a tune with a CAI will get you the most bang for your money. I will probably do that after I add some headers in a few months. I have heard that the computer will adjust itself within a certain range to allow for air/fuel differences but I don't know how long that takes. I just went for a good run and it ran great, i found a nice empty stretch of road and really opened it up and it felt really strong up around the 5K to 6K RPM range
But I have no numbers to back it up other than the temp readings.
People who know much more than me will say that a tune with a CAI will get you the most bang for your money. I will probably do that after I add some headers in a few months. I have heard that the computer will adjust itself within a certain range to allow for air/fuel differences but I don't know how long that takes. I just went for a good run and it ran great, i found a nice empty stretch of road and really opened it up and it felt really strong up around the 5K to 6K RPM range
But I have no numbers to back it up other than the temp readings.
Cool - will be interesting in hearing your longer term results. I may have to go this route down the road - thanks!
Cool - will be interesting in hearing your longer term results. I may have to go this route down the road - thanks!
Glad to help, if any LS3 owners are interested I did a little writeup on a simple little mod to the PVC line for the Killer Bee. It was just a couple bucks at ACE hardware and I think it gave it a much better finish look, kind of like the Z06 mod.
If you feed your new sealed box from the bottom with somehing like a Vette-Air you'll find it VERY effective at keeping temps down. I'm surprised Jim didn't recommend this as I know he is a fan. The IAT sensor at the MAF is the critical temp measurement and ultimately determines timing advance and therefore power. I have IAT temps up all the time on my Scangauge and mine runs right at ambient as long as the car is moving. You can't get any better than that.
My homemade box (been on 10 months or so predating the Beehive)
A Vette-Air. Simple install, Minimal cutting. Air force fed from the grill
Vette air installed showing cool air feed. Insulate to keep radiant heat out
Last edited by Modshack; Jun 25, 2008 at 10:48 PM.
I didn't want to cut the shroud right now. I just knocked out the 2 plastic pins securing the shroud to the front end. I then used a 5 inch toggle bolt , with 2 toggles on it, from one of those holes already in the front end and pushed the shroud down and drilled a small whole in it and inserted the other end and set the toggles like a stand off on each end. It looks like a big scoop down there now
Mine seems to fit like Modshack's.
It BARELY fits under the hood.
In fact, the hood actually pushes it down onto the radiator shoud.
On WGMARQ's, it looks like the filter sits a much lower.
The reason why I'm asking this is because, based on how my air filter fits, I'm don't think that it will fit under the Beehive shroud.
I'd appreciate both of your comments.
Thanks!
Car2fAST.....I know when the first halltechs were offered for the LS3 Jim used the Z06 part which everyone thought was the same. It seems there was a slight variance in the length of the bridge between the Z and the LS3 part. I worked with Jim on this and he sent me a shorter bridge piece after he figured out what needed to be done. I took some pics and measurements for him of the original Z Intake I had. You can see from the pics that it used to really stick up due to being too long. Maybe you have a Z06 bridge. Pics are here: http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/co...tuff/halltech/
If you feed your new sealed box from the bottom with somehing like a Vette-Air you'll find it VERY effective at keeping temps down. I'm surprised Jim didn't recommend this as I know he is a fan. The IAT sensor at the MAF is the critical temp measurement and ultimately determines timing advance and therefore power. I have IAT temps up all the time on my Scangauge and mine runs right at ambient as long as the car is moving. You can't get any better than that.
My homemade box (been on 10 months or so predating the Beehive)
A Vette-Air. Simple install, Minimal cutting. Air force fed from the grill
Vette air installed showing cool air feed. Insulate to keep radiant heat out
I didn't want to cut the shroud right now. I just knocked out the 2 plastic pins securing the shroud to the front end. I then used a 5 inch toggle bolt , with 2 toggles on it, from one of those holes already in the front end and pushed the shroud down and drilled a small whole in it and inserted the other end and set the toggles like a stand off on each end. It looks like a big scoop down there now
I have an 08 with the Halltech Killer Bee, and have been thinking of installing the Beehive shroud. Does the toggle bolt cold air work with Z51 optioned cars? I heard one of the oil coolers is in the way. I might have to opt for the vette air with a special barcket.
Car2fAST.....I know when the first halltechs were offered for the LS3 Jim used the Z06 part which everyone thought was the same. It seems there was a slight variance in the length of the bridge between the Z and the LS3 part. I worked with Jim on this and he sent me a shorter bridge piece after he figured out what needed to be done. I took some pics and measurements for him of the original Z Intake I had. You can see from the pics that it used to really stick up due to being too long. Maybe you have a Z06 bridge. Pics are here: http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/co...tuff/halltech/
Yours was the first LS3 ever shipped for fitment. All future LS3s were set up 1/4" shorter to avoid the radiator shroud problem you had.
There are none out there with the tighter fit you had. We needed an expert's opinion on the fit, since our LS3 had a slight variance when compared to its big brother.