wet sanding powdercoat
12-02-2008, 08:35 PM
#1
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wet sanding powdercoat
Had a few parts powdercoated and there is significant orange peel. Has anyone wet sanded powdercoating before? I know I would finish with 1000 or 1500 grit and then buff, but should I start with a rougher girt like 400, 600 or 800?
12-02-2008, 09:06 PM
#3
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
ask vette-man, mike the powdercoater, a vendor here. he does a lot of it.
here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...tte-pilot.html
"corvette pilot"
here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...tte-pilot.html
"corvette pilot"
Last edited by AORoads; 12-02-2008 at 09:10 PM.
12-03-2008, 02:43 PM
#7
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What he says. I haven't wet sanded much because thats not my thing, but I know others have successfully. I strip and redo if the finish is unsat.
12-03-2008, 07:04 PM
#10
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In my case it was on plastic which is difficult to powder coat in the first place. It was just a little bumpy spot. Looks great now.
12-03-2008, 10:12 PM
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It was on wheels, so the powdercoater laid it on very thick. According to him, the thicker the coat the more orange peel. He is a very stand up guy and has done some great work for me in the past, so I trust him. He was trying to do me a favor since the wheels generally take some abuse. The orange peel is not crazy, I'm just a perfectionist
12-03-2008, 11:10 PM
#12
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What the hell do you agree with in this thread? What do you agree with in any thread where you always post the same thing!
Just a post count *****.
It is what it is.
Some powders "flow out" different than others. Oven temp and application method are very important. I agree with the approach that if it does not come out right the first time, strip it off and do it over. I would think this would be much faster than sanding.
Just a post count *****.
It is what it is.
Some powders "flow out" different than others. Oven temp and application method are very important. I agree with the approach that if it does not come out right the first time, strip it off and do it over. I would think this would be much faster than sanding.
12-04-2008, 05:47 AM
#15
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What the hell do you agree with in this thread? What do you agree with in any thread where you always post the same thing!
Just a post count *****.
It is what it is.
Some powders "flow out" different than others. Oven temp and application method are very important. I agree with the approach that if it does not come out right the first time, strip it off and do it over. I would think this would be much faster than sanding.
Just a post count *****.
It is what it is.
Some powders "flow out" different than others. Oven temp and application method are very important. I agree with the approach that if it does not come out right the first time, strip it off and do it over. I would think this would be much faster than sanding.
There, got another post in. 
12-04-2008, 11:40 AM
#17
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Normal powdercoating needs a conductive surface, not magnetic (ie aluminum). Nonetheless, I developed my own application method for non-conductive surfaces, and once you get the initial layer of powder on, it even gets a little conductivity to it. If it won't melt, I can powdercoat it.
12-04-2008, 08:56 PM
#19
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Normal powdercoating needs a conductive surface, not magnetic (ie aluminum). Nonetheless, I developed my own application method for non-conductive surfaces, and once you get the initial layer of powder on, it even gets a little conductivity to it. If it won't melt, I can powdercoat it.
12-04-2008, 08:56 PM
#20
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
