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Need to look at what you want as far as sound also, I am old school and I love the cam loping at idle which pretty much draws attention to the car. On supercharged cars you get more of a sleeper car as it is on the quiet side.
Absolouty!! with stock mufflers and my cams and headers I am constantly bombarded with people who love the way my car sounds at idle. Car gently shakes which gives you that feeling of true power
If you're not going to do any work on the shortblock I'd go N/A. Something about 10.9:1 and a supercharger doesnt do it for me. If it were me I'd do it right the first time (shortblock, good heads, blower cam and s/c) otherwise, heads/cam/exhaust for n/a.
Thanks for all your feedback on this issue. C6 is my weekend toy and not DD.
I dont know why but i get these dirty looks from BMW boys when My son and I are drving down the highway (I- 66). In one instance, had a M-5 wanted to race.
No way I was going to fall for that, but would be nice to know you could have 600+ American muscle if you want/need it.
Very true. You will also never spend as much on NA as FI.
Both statements are broad generalizations. While FI certainly has the potential to make much more power, up to as much as 2 hp/ci in reasonably streetable trim, doing so reliably will require reworking much of the car, with resultant expense and validation issues. NA is limited to about 1.4 hp/ci, but requires far fewer changes to the car, and hence less expense and fewer validation issues.
In reality, the question cannot be answered without a budget goal, present and future, a power goal, present and future, and also considerations such as how and how much the car is to be driven, the owner's tolerance for "hot rod stuff", and the owner's tolerance for risk of part failure.
To the OP: if your present and future budget is only $7k, I would suggest a reasonably modest NA build, not FI. There are very, very few people who have put an FI system on a Vette and run it for any length of time for $7k total. More typical expenditures are at least $12k, and $30-50k is quite common in FI circles. But, if you have very modest FI goals, and you can avoid "scope creep", it is possible to put a centri setup on a Vette for $7k. It even makes for a very nice car. But you have to have a lot of discipline. And a good tuner.
+1.
I would believe that the true cost of going FI on a C6 is at least $10,000.
Why not just spend a couple more grand on top of that and get a Z06?
Wow. NA vs FI? We could check the search feature on this forum, but I don't think anybody's ever asked this question before.
Also: What about NA Z51 vs NA F55 vs FI Z51 vs FI F55?
Wow, that added a lot to the thread. Come on the member asked a question for opinions and he is getting them. Acutually makes for some interesting reading if you take the time to go through. For what it is worth I like NA over FI, but if I were to step up I would like to ty a twin turbo set up. It is more expensive that the SC though.
I talked to a guy in Manassas with that brand who has overheating issues in the summer and cannot use his AC. Good choice for some, but I could not stand a car with those headaches.
This video illustrates an engineered route - Note how they say they ran for 2 hours at the track
The AC problem has absolutely nothing to do with the ProCharger. He obviously needs his refrigerant charge adjusted as many have. I've never had overheating issues, even in 100+* temps and a lot of HP.
The AC problem has absolutely nothing to do with the ProCharger. He obviously needs his refrigerant charge adjusted as many have. I've never had overheating issues, even in 100+* temps and a lot of HP.
I am sure if it was that easy...
I have also spoken with more than a few who have had their centrifugal superchargers rebuilt within a couple years. One guy had his rebuilt twice in 36,000 miles. He traded the car for a Maggie SC'd Callaway.
I have milled this same debate over and over in my head and unfortunately there is no solid conclusion. What you really must realize is that anything over 450 to the wheels on the street with street tires is going to be useless. Speed is more about the setup and utilizing the power you have efficiently than big HP numbers which everyone seems to get caught up in. Look at Dennis's car spanking cars with tons more hp. The one major downside to FI is that you are adding significant additional weight exactly where you don't want it, directly over the front wheels. That is fine for a strip car, but I really don't want to change my handling characteristics. You are also adding tons of cylinder pressure to a high compression motor that was not designed for boost, and though I know of many guys running Prochargers on stock internals without a problem, I also know several that have grenaded. If I can get 460-480 whp out of N/A H/C setup I think that would be perfect and those numbers are very attainable. That is most likely the direction I am going in the Spring. Now deciding on which H/C will drive you crazy!
Last edited by NormWild; Dec 20, 2008 at 12:53 PM.
I have also spoken with more than a few who have had their centrifugal superchargers rebuilt within a couple years. One guy had his rebuilt twice in 36,000 miles. He traded the car for a Maggie SC'd Callaway.
You can get a 3 year warranty with several centrifugal blowers. But I'm sure because you buy a callaway means you are absolutely trouble free! The reason you don't hear about their problems is simply due to low numbers. But lets be serious here...if you want callaway to make power compared to centrifugals, you will have to invest 100K+. If money is no object, Katech is where the smart money is spent. The problem with Katech is they don't do blower motor installs in house, as I found out.
I have milled this same debate over and over in my head and unfortunately there is no solid conclusion.* What you really must realize is that anything over 450 to the wheels on the street with street tires is going to be useless.* Speed is more about the setup* and utilizing the power you have efficiently than big HP numbers which everyone seems to get caught up in.* Look at Dennis's car spanking cars with tons more hp. The one major downside to FI is that you are adding significant additional weight exactly where you don't want it, directly over the front wheels.* That is fine for a strip car, but I really don't want to change my handling characteristics. You are also adding tons of cylinder pressure to a high compression motor that was not designed for boost, and though I know of many guys running Prochargers on stock internals without a problem, I also know several that have grenaded.* If I can get 460-480 whp out of N/A H/C setup I think that would be perfect and those numbers are very attainable. That is most likely the direction I am going in the Spring.* Now deciding on which H/C will drive you crazy!
Well above 450 is not useless. Dennis isn't spanking a c-6 with F/I any where but maybe the 1/4 at the track.Only because thats his use for the car and it's set up for it. Highway pass? FORGET IT! Weight is not noticed by me at all. Handling has not changed, Only thing changed is the driving pleasure! The cam and heads is more effort to install and you end up less drivablity and less power plus we have all heard about the timing chains and cams. Over-all the F/I set is the way to go.* IMO
My 01 Tahoe was supercharged and then turbocharged. I had cam, heads, meth etc. It was a pain with both. Eating belts with the s/c or chasing boost leaks or boost reference points and leaks with the turbo and pipes blowing off. Either way you have to consider trans, clutch (if you have one) and rear end issues. You will never get half of what you put into out of it so its all purely for your enjoyment. F/I was too much of a pain for me as with weather changes the power levels changed pretty drastically. This time its a simple ported intake manifold, vararam, catless X with Kooks, and a Corsa. I'm doing some CCW wheels 11 inch in the rear and an LG Hood. Make a choice, but keep in mind the further you go in the HP world the more you will spend. The more HP a vehicle makes the more stress on everything else and the parts that can handle it are increasingly expensive. Just my experience
You can get a 3 year warranty with several centrifugal blowers. But I'm sure because you buy a callaway means you are absolutely trouble free! The reason you don't hear about their problems is simply due to low numbers. But lets be serious here...if you want callaway to make power compared to centrifugals, you will have to invest 100K+. If money is no object, Katech is where the smart money is spent. The problem with Katech is they don't do blower motor installs in house, as I found out.
The trouble with the 3year/36k mi "warranties" is the R&R cost when you have a problem. Who pays?
I actually have 43,000 trouble free miles behind me
The power" of centrifugals can be misleading... Why aren't they any faster than they are (on paper) Roots style blower power delivery is more fun to drive than a centrifugal blower. I have driven and installed both. In fact, not much has changed in two decades since my first
p.s. Throwing other big-name companies around in an attempt to disparage another co. is a complete contradiction of the point you tried to make... Talk about a lack of seriousness...