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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 11:11 AM
  #1  
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Default well plug it

Wife is at Discount with a low right rear. It has a sheet metal screw in the thickest part of the tread. They say a plug will do just fine. So is it? Beats buying a new tire and its a run flat GY with maybe 2K miles.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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A proper plug is fine. That involves dismounting tire and installing a patch plug from the inside. Not, the simple plug they shove in from the outside.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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If it is in the tread lug just be sure to trim the plug so it is flush with the tread. I use a drill to clean out the hole before shoving in the plug.

Better than a plug is a hot patch installed inside the tire. That requires a dismount and mount and new balance.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by holdin5aces
Wife is at Discount with a low right rear. It has a sheet metal screw in the thickest part of the tread. They say a plug will do just fine. So is it? Beats buying a new tire and its a run flat GY with maybe 2K miles.
A proper repair involves removing the tire for an inpection.



Service Information Chevrolet Corvette | Corvette (VIN Y) Service Manual | Document ID: 2047637
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

#04-03-10-001D: Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks - (Jan 7, 2008)


Subject: Tire Puncture Repair Procedures For All Cars and Light Duty Trucks


Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)

2008 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3

2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001C (Section 03 -- Suspension).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin covers puncture repair procedures for passenger car and light duty truck radial tires in the tread area only. The tire manufacturer must be contacted for its individual repair policy and whether or not the speed rating is retained after repair.

Caution:

• Tire changing can be dangerous and should be done by trained professionals using proper tools and procedures. Always read and understand any manufacturer's warnings contained in their customers literature or molded into the tire sidewall.

• Serious eye and ear injury may result from not wearing adequate eye and ear protection while repairing tires.

• NEVER inflate beyond 275 kPa (40 pounds) pressure to seat beads.

Some run flat tires, such as the Goodyear Extended Mobility Tire (EMT) used on the Corvette, may require more than 275 kPa (40 psi) to seat the bead. In such a case, a tire safety cage must be used. Consult the tire manufacturer for its individual repair policy.

• NEVER stand, lean or reach over the assembly during inflation.






Repairable area on a radial tire.

Important:

• NEVER repair tires worn to the tread indicators 1.59 mm (2/32") remaining depth).

• NEVER repair tires with a tread puncture larger than 6.35 mm (1/4").

• NEVER substitute an inner tube for a permissible or non-permissible repair.

NEVER perform an outside-in tire repair (plug only, on the wheel).

• Every tire must be removed from the wheel for proper inspection and repair.

• Regardless of the type of repair used, the repair must seal the innerliner and fill the injury.

• Consult with repair material supplier/manufacturer for repair unit application procedures and repair tools/repair material recommendations.


Three basic steps for tire puncture repair:
Remove the tire from the wheel for inspection and repair.
Fill the injury (puncture) to keep moisture out.
Seal the innerliner with a repair unit to prevent air loss.
External Inspection
Prior to demounting, inspect the tire surface, the valve and the wheel for the source of the leak by using a water and soap solution. Mark the injured area and totally deflate the tire by removing the valve core.
Demount the tire from the wheel and place the tire on a well-lighted spreader.
Internal Inspection




Spread the beads and mark the puncture with a tire crayon.
Inspect the inner tire for any signs of internal damage.
Remove the puncturing object, noting the direction of the penetration.
Probe the injury with a blunt awl in order to determine the extent and direction of the injury.
Remove any loose foreign material from the injury.
Punctures exceeding 6.35 mm (1/4") should not be repaired.
Cleaning




Clean the area around the puncture thoroughly with a proper liner cleaner, clean cloth and a scraper. This step serves to remove dirt and mold lubricants to insure proper adhesion and non-contamination of the buffing tool.
Refer to information on the product or manufacturer's Material Safety Data Sheet and follow guidelines for handling and disposal.
Clean the Injury Channel




Use a proper hand reamer, carbide cutter or drill bit to ream the puncture channel from the inside of the tire in order to clean the injury.
Remove steel wires protruding above the liner surface to prevent damage to the repair unit.
Consult your repair material supplier for recommended reaming tool(s).
Fill the Injury




It is necessary to fill the injury channel to provide back up for the repair unit and to prevent moisture from entering the tire fabric and steel wires.
(For combination repair/plug units skip this step.) Cement the injured channel and fill the injury from the inside of the tire with the repair plug per repair material manufacturer's recommendations. Without stretching the plug, cut the plug off just above the inside tire surface.
Consult your repair material supplier for proper repair material selection.
Repair Unit Selection




Important: Do not install the repair unit in this step.

Center the repair unit over the injury as a reference and outline an area larger than the unit so that buffing will not remove the crayon marks.
Remove the repair unit.
DO NOT overlap previous or multiple repair units.
Consult your repair material supplier for proper repair unit selection.
Buffing




To prevent contamination and preserve the outline, buff within the marked area thoroughly and evenly with a low speed buffing tool using a fine wire brush or gritted rasp.
Buff to a smooth velvet surface (RMA #1 or #2 buffed texture).
Use caution not to gouge the innerliner or expose casing fabric.
Remove any buffing dust with a vacuum cleaner.
Consult your repair material supplier for a proper buffing tool.
Cementing




Apply chemical cement according to the repair material manufacturer's procedures.

Repair Unit Application




The tire must be in the relaxed position when the repair unit is installed (Do not spread the beads excessively).
Two-Piece Plug and Repair Units
1.1. If applicable, install the repair unit so that the alignment is correct.

1.2. Center the repair unit over the injury and stitch down thoroughly with the stitching tool, working from the center out.





1.3. Being careful not to stretch the plug material, cut the plug flush with the outer tread.

Combination Repair/Plug Units
1.1. Pull the plug through the injury until the repair just reaches the liner. Stitch down thoroughly.

1.2. Follow the repair material manufacturer's recommendations for further installation instructions.

Consult your repair material supplier for the proper stitching tool.
Safety Cage




Some run flat tires, such as the Goodyear Extended Mobility Tire (EMT) used on the Corvette, may require more than 275 kPa (40 psi) to seat the bead. In such a case, a tire safety cage must be used. Consult the tire manufacturer for its individual repair policy.

Final Inspection




After remounting and inflating the tire, check both beads, the repair and the valve with a water and soap solution in order to detect leaks.
If the tire continues to lose air, the tire must be demounted and reinspected.
Balance the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - OFF Vehicle.
For additional tire puncture repair information, contact:


Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA)

1400 K Street, N.W., Suite 900

Washington, DC 20005-2403

Telephone: 202-682-4800

E-mail: info@rma.org

Website: www.rma.org

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© 2008 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

Last edited by calemasters; Dec 30, 2008 at 02:09 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 11:30 AM
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and now... for something completely different.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 11:30 AM
  #6  
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check your local directory for a Goodyear store that is qualified to handle RF tires. they will fix is correctly and likely for minimal cost or free if you only have 2k on the tire.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 11:50 AM
  #7  
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Default hey homey

Originally Posted by DOOKEY
and now... for something completely different.
Don't turn on me man! Grew up near S Hydralic and Pawnee, Boeing dad, South High/WSU grad, partied at Crystal Lake, Joyland, Angelo's Pizza, Dog N Shake, River Festival veteran, motocrossed the Big Ditch for years, been busted speeding in Eastborough, canoodled at Herman Hill Park, bought my first Vette at Quality Chevrolet, worked at the corner of Douglas and Broadway. 40 years of hot humid summers and bitter cold winters. Be from the same hood my guy. Cut me some slack dude.

Last edited by holdin5aces; Dec 30, 2008 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by CodyC6
A proper plug is fine. That involves dismounting tire and installing a patch plug from the inside. Not, the simple plug they shove in from the outside.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 01:28 PM
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if she's at discount tire they'll break it down and put a patch in it for free. don't use a plug except in an emergency

Last edited by gbgary; Dec 30, 2008 at 01:31 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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you'd think we were talking rocket science here.... i've been plugging tires for close to 40 years and have never had one fail.. just done one on the vette a couple months ago.. just stick a plug in it and be done, i do lubricate the plug with sealant before i stick it in though
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by gsport
.....just stick a plug in it and be done, i do lubricate the plug with sealant before i stick it in though
This is getting out of control...:o
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CodyC6
A proper plug is fine. That involves dismounting tire and installing a patch plug from the inside. Not, the simple plug they shove in from the outside.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 03:40 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by DOOKEY
and now... for something completely different.
Episode 12B: The Larch.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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Discount does a pretty good job out here - -I wouldn't be hesitant about having them do a "clean" repair like you're describing.

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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gsport
you'd think we were talking rocket science here.... i've been plugging tires for close to 40 years and have never had one fail.. just done one on the vette a couple months ago.. just stick a plug in it and be done, i do lubricate the plug with sealant before i stick it in though
The real issue is the speed rating of the tire - sure, a plug will work, but would you trust it at HPDE event, or a little "spirited" run through the back-country? Patched properly, the speed rating is maintained.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 05:32 PM
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I prefer the patch with the plug on it. You cant lose when its patched from the inside. DTC will do it for free or 5 bucks most of the time.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gsport
you'd think we were talking rocket science here.... i've been plugging tires for close to 40 years and have never had one fail.. just done one on the vette a couple months ago.. just stick a plug in it and be done, i do lubricate the plug with sealant before i stick it in though


I been plugging tires since 1968 on every kind of car/truck known to man. Never a problem.
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To well plug it

Old Dec 30, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gbgary
if she's at discount tire they'll break it down and put a patch in it for free. don't use a plug except in an emergency
With only 2k miles, I'm guessing it's less than a year old. Should be repaired free under warranty -- assuming the puncture is repairable.

Discount Tire fixed mine for free. Fixed it from the inside, then balanced & re-mounted. The tech was careful so I tipped him $10.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:28 PM
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[QUOTE=CO Lightfoot;1568376361]With only 2k miles, I'm guessing it's less than a year old. Should be repaired free under warranty -- assuming the puncture is repairable.

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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gsport
you'd think we were talking rocket science here.... i've been plugging tires for close to 40 years and have never had one fail.. just done one on the vette a couple months ago.. just stick a plug in it and be done, i do lubricate the plug with sealant before i stick it in though
I always lubricate it before I stick it in....
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