Hoping for some good guidance on what I think is the dreaded Dead Battery Syndrome. Went out to the garage to start car - everything dead. Doors would not open so opened hatch using key. Pulled door latch and window would not even index down. Can hear a clicking sound coming from under hood but don't know what this is doing. Battery is now on a charger - is only new so unlikely to be the fault.

No previous problems although when I last drove the car a couple of days ago and parked it in garage some strange things happened - turned off car but could hear slight clicking noise. Got out of car and rear hatch unlocked. Took the fob out of my pocket to make sure button was not being pressed yet hatch kept on unlocking. Fob would not lock doors. Took fob inside house came back out and everything seemed ok.

Yes car was put in reverse - I've got the 05 model.

Checked forum threads and seems like the DBS can be fixed by having a re-flash done. Here is my problem - No GM Corvette dealerships in Australia so I can't just drop it into a dealer. Whats involved in a re-flash? Any suggestions given I'm 12,000 miles away?

 

Install a Priority start unit and forget about dead batterys. That is what I did with my 05

 

Good day Mark,

If you guys would get the steering wheel on the correct side, the car might drive "right".


If you are still on the original battery, it is probably time for a fresh battery. If you do not have access to a Chevrolet Corvette dealer, it is possible for any GM dealer to do the reprogramming of the RCDLRM (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Module). All GM dealers have the Tech 2, so they can download the new calibration via TIS2WEB. Maybe Brisbane Hummer or one of the Holden dealers could help?

The GM dealer will also have access to SI (Service Information) for access to the bulletin and programming procedure.

Again, if still on the original battery, replace the battery first. If you have already replaced the battery, you could have the battery tested. The most accurate tester that I know of is the Midtronics battery tester, an essential tool for all GM dealers here in the states at least. A newer tester is in the works, but not currently available. The Priority start device does not address the root cause of the problem, it just masks the problem.


Also, the reprogramming of the RCDLRM is not a total fix, at least for me. I had my RCDLRM reprogrammed about 2 years ago (2005 6 speed manual) and some times the "system" does not shut down properly. Yes I always park in reverse. I think the reprogramming changed things, but I do not know all of the details. Sometimes, when parking, I put the manual tranny in reverse, set the park brake, turn off the ignition and when I open the driver's door the radio continues to play, as the retained accessory power did not shut down. Maybe some noise on the data communication line and one of the modules did not receive the shut down command? This is very intermittent. However, on those times when the radio is NOT on, I would have no way of knowing the system did not shut down properly. This is why my NEW battery was discharged in only 4 hours at work 3 weeks ago. This was the 1st time in 4 years that my C6 failed to start. It remains a mystery as to why it does not shut down properly sometimes. Again, this occurance is very rare for me.

Good luck mate!

 

Put a new battery in my 05 (Sears Platinum) a few months ago. No problem until today, car was stone dead. (Original battery crapped out about 3 times in almost 4 years.) Jumped the car with my Camry.
After a shut down of about 1 hour, I measured the Amp/parasitic drain and it measured an unacceptable 3 plus amps. Measured it again after an hour or two and it measured an acceptable 10 milliamps.
Its an MN6 and I always put it in reverse. Never had it flashed, because I don't believe it would solve the problem and I hate dealerships!

 

Have your battery checked, otherwise this little gizmo will essentially circumvent your problem, and would be your best bet if you have no access to GM.

 

Update - battery recharged fine. Took car for a good drive and all seems ok again. Checked today and no drain. Must be a gremlin somewhere and will have to monitor.

Al - not many people on the forum know about Holden and Brisbane! Thanks for the tips. By the way it is a stinking hot 35 degrees (95 for you guys) here today so holed up in the air con.

 

If you haven't been reflashed, DBS will happen again, it's only a matter of time.
In risky situations where a dead battery would be disastrous you could try this, which worked for me before the reflash came out:
When you shut the car all down in reverse, go to neutral before you exit. If DBS is pending the DIC will tell you to 'shift to reverse', which of course you already did.
That's DBS!

 

Like quite a few folks here, I experienced DBS on my 2005 MZ6 coupe several times before getting the reflash; all has been fine since. My guess is that if you can find a way to get the reflash, you'll be fine.

 

I have a 2005 manual C6. I had to purchase two batteries in the first two years I owned the C6 as each time I experience DBS, it does a little damage to your C6 battery because auto batteries don't like to be discharged below 75%, (50% if you have a deep discharge battery). Had dealer reflash the computer two years ago. I have not had any problems in two years since the reflash. But I to have had a problem in the last two years twice when getting out of the car with the computer or body control module not shuting down completely. The cure is to raise hood, and disconnect the negitive wire to the battery for a minute then reconnect. You will lose the window indexing, but thats easly reset. I hope this helps you to keep from having the DBS problem.

 

I had my 2005 C6 reflashed two days ago. My symptoms were the same as yours. I just replaced the original Delco battery with a new Sears Diehard Platinum battery about three or four weeks ago.

I went out to start the car last Sunday, and everything was stone cold dead. I had to enter it by using the key to open the hatch, and pulling the door release cable.

When I connected the charger to the battery, I heard the same clicking noise, and determined that the alarm was trying to sound the horn. Hitting the unlock button on the fob stopped the clicking, and confirmed that the alarm was indeed the source of the clicking relay.

Sears charged my battery, and I then took the car to the local Chevy dealer for the $85.00 reflash. I did have to disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal for the climate control system to operate correctly. Hopefully my case of DBS has been resolved!

 

How can I confirm on my VIS report if the dealer did my DBS reflash correctly? I don't see a specific item referring to a dbs-tsb.

Anyone have an example of what the VIS line item for dbs-tsb should look like?

When I took it in, they attempted, and made a mess of it and ended up having to replace the RCDLR. Now, often the car is fine, but randomly a long weekend it will be low/drained or the priority start will have kicked in. So either they didn't reflash it or it wasn't able to solve my issue.

It's inconsistent.

thanks!

 

Oh by the way, there are two items out there to address the DBS right?

PIC1488E: pcm/ecm calibration upgrade.
TechBulletin #07-06-03-001B: RCDLR module repgrogram.

 

The second is less common, but a good idea to look into.

 

Ok looks like I might need to go get my PCM upgraded and look into the RCDLR module reprogrammed, but I had a street tune done on the car, 1-4 shift removed, and the rear 02 sensors are calibrated out. I'm assuming they will erase all that and bring it back to stock, or not. I guess if so I just need to go get the dyno tune done that I've been wanting to do.

 

Some dealerships check the car for a tune before doing any work. If the check comes up positive they void your warranty,basic or extended, on the spot.