Cold engine tapping questions

As far as the dealer is concerned.... and the "iffy" oil change problem is completely up to you. You will NOT harm your engine by running non-synthetic per se, but under dire conditions I would want mine to have all "true" synthetics (made from group IV base stocks such as Mobil One) on board.
As far as the dealer is concerned.... and the "iffy" oil change problem is completely up to you. You will NOT harm your engine by running non-synthetic per se, but under dire conditions I would want mine to have all "true" synthetics (made from group IV base stocks such as Mobil One) on board.





It appears most shops & mechanics put on 3 month stickers every time they do an old change. Old habits die hard.
If you have Mob1 in there let the DIC be your guide or once a year.
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My '02 Z06 has piston slap for about the first 30 seconds when it's first started but hasn't created any problems for 70K miles.
The easiest way to tell the difference between piston slap and valve train noise (a leaking down lifter) is that piston slap will be more pronounced under load. It will also go away in short order as the piston warms up and expands a bit.
As far as the dealer is concerned.... and the "iffy" oil change problem is completely up to you. You will NOT harm your engine by running non-synthetic per se, but under dire conditions I would want mine to have all "true" synthetics (made from group IV base stocks such as Mobil One) on board.
Started after an oil change...hmmm. I wonder if their stuff was **** thin. I run into that a lot with Harleys. Somebody will take their bike to a dealer and think they are getting getting the greatest oil change on earth by asking for synthetic oil. And the dealer puts in their version of water thin synthetic. And on the first cold start of the morning, the lifters knock for about 5 seconds (and Harley's use Chevy roller lifters). They'll go back and forth arguing and doing nothing, and then when I put 20w50 V-twin synthetic in it - no more knocking. Some oil is just way too thin for that application.
If a dealer is using bulk oil, who really knows what is in that barrel. If your in a warm climate, it wouldn't hurt to use a Mobil 1 or Amsoil 10w30. or any brand 10w30 synthetic with the GM corvette spec (4918 or something like that). The 10w30 will be a hair thicker, maybe the lifters won't bleed down quite so much.
What happens is, when you shut the motor off, there are going to be a couple lifters up on cam lobes. That several hundred pounds of spring pressure over time will bleed the oil out of that lifter. The thinner the oil, the easier it will bleed out. As the engine breaks in, the lifters now wear into their bores - now there is just a slightest bit more lifter to lifter bore clearance to allow oil to bleed out over an extended period of time of that lifter sitting up on the lobe with spring pressure against it.
That's why a brand new, super tight fresh motor may not do it, but one with 10K or so on it will. Performance cars with stiffer valve springs and taller cam lobes are also much more noticeable.
If it goes away real quick, within 10-15 seconds, most likely just those couple of lifters that bled down refilling. You can listen with a stethescope and see which lifters are doing it. If it is different lifters each morning, no problem. If it's the same lifter every cold start, I'd wonder about that.
Since in started with an oil change, just for kicks, I'd redo the change with 10w30 Mobil 1. Or it could be that the old oil in there was thicker than dog snot from not being changed in a long time. And now the new oil is the correct viscosity and just making it more noticeable. I've seen that before. Take oil 10K and beyond, I've seen it come out real thin or real thick, high miles on oil can make it do funky things. How many miles was on your old oil.
This is where the oil gods will disagree and say today's oil can go xxK miles.... They also probably don't change their own oil and look at what comes out. I just changed my girlfriends Equinox oil when her change oil light came on, I think hers came on around 11,000 miles. What came out had little similarity to oil, looked like dark brown thick pancake batter coming out. No thanks for my cars, I'll stick with around 3 - 6K range for changing oil.
My '02 Z06 has piston slap for about the first 30 seconds when it's first started but hasn't created any problems for 70K miles.
The easiest way to tell the difference between piston slap and valve train noise (a leaking down lifter) is that piston slap will be more pronounced under load. It will also go away in short order as the piston warms up and expands a bit.
It lasts longer in colder weather, fews seconds to maybe 15 or so.
If I understand correctly the leaking lifter would be the same regardless of outside temp.
Now that’s interesting. I’ll time it tomorrow morning and see how long it actually lasts. As I previously stated, the car only has 8700 miles on it and the first oil change was done at 7500 miles. I think I may go to another dealer and have it changed again when it hits 11500 miles ---- just in case the first dealer screwed up.
For those who are unaware they'll be happy to charge for an oil change every 3 months!












change your own oil then you know whats in your motor..