Take Care of Your Clutch--Preventing or Curing Pedal Issues
#162
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Conroe Texas
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CI 1-4-5-8-9-10 Vet
St. Jude Donor '03,'04,'05,'07,08,'09,'10,’17
I always thot (of course this is debated in mechanic circles i have been in) that the dirty fluid wasnt caused by clutch material making it into the system but was from 2 things (which have the same effect)
1. Old fluid thats boiling point was lowered just do to age
2. High heat which eventually breaks down the fluid and lowers its boiling point.
In both cases the lowering of the fluids boiling point "burns" so to speak the fluid making weird gases and discolors it. Its pretty common on high heat launches (where your slipping the clutch) or just hard slipping of the clutch like burning the tires etc. Good maintenance either way. We use to do the suck out thing on all 30,60,90 k mile cars. I think we called it a brake fluid flush. Good write up and its nice to see guys doing there own work you know its done right that way. good post ranger i didnt read it because mines auto until now. Be safe, paul
1. Old fluid thats boiling point was lowered just do to age
2. High heat which eventually breaks down the fluid and lowers its boiling point.
In both cases the lowering of the fluids boiling point "burns" so to speak the fluid making weird gases and discolors it. Its pretty common on high heat launches (where your slipping the clutch) or just hard slipping of the clutch like burning the tires etc. Good maintenance either way. We use to do the suck out thing on all 30,60,90 k mile cars. I think we called it a brake fluid flush. Good write up and its nice to see guys doing there own work you know its done right that way. good post ranger i didnt read it because mines auto until now. Be safe, paul
#163
Instructor
I also flushed mine last weekend. 11K on the car and the fluid was black with residue at the bottom of the fluid resevior. After 10 flushes it was fairly clean.
#164
Melting Slicks
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I went to the dealer yesterday for an oil change. Figured I would pick up another can of Super DOT 4, the last time I bought one from the dealer (about 2 weeks ago) he gave me the Pensotin brand Super DOT 4 for about $9. Yesterday he comes up with a Castrol brand that I seen in a few auto stores (including Pep Boys and RS Strauss).
I read the container and it says it exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. And I halted from buying it in the store. Now I am considering buying the castrol brand and using it since the dealer apparently were carrying it. I know Castrol been around for quite sometime, I just wanted some input from someone on here first before I make the move, thanks!
I read the container and it says it exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. And I halted from buying it in the store. Now I am considering buying the castrol brand and using it since the dealer apparently were carrying it. I know Castrol been around for quite sometime, I just wanted some input from someone on here first before I make the move, thanks!
#165
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Conroe Texas
Posts: 35,255
Received 865 Likes
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CI 1-4-5-8-9-10 Vet
St. Jude Donor '03,'04,'05,'07,08,'09,'10,’17
I went to the dealer yesterday for an oil change. Figured I would pick up another can of Super DOT 4, the last time I bought one from the dealer (about 2 weeks ago) he gave me the Pensotin brand Super DOT 4 for about $9. Yesterday he comes up with a Castrol brand that I seen in a few auto stores (including Pep Boys and RS Strauss).
I read the container and it says it exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. And I halted from buying it in the store. Now I am considering buying the castrol brand and using it since the dealer apparently were carrying it. I know Castrol been around for quite sometime, I just wanted some input from someone on here first before I make the move, thanks!
I read the container and it says it exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications. And I halted from buying it in the store. Now I am considering buying the castrol brand and using it since the dealer apparently were carrying it. I know Castrol been around for quite sometime, I just wanted some input from someone on here first before I make the move, thanks!
#167
Race Director
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Location: Central Florida
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Clutch Bleed Procedure Using Remote Bleeder and a Helper
I have a remote bleeder on my car but don't use. I find the reservoir method is easier for me. But for those who wish to bleed via a remote bleeder, here is the way. Be very precise in the sequencing. If you're not, you will introduce air into the hydraulics.
Start by placing a section of clear tubing over the remote bleed valve nipple and running the tube to a clear plastic bottle, so that the expelled fluid can be seen. Light the tubing and bottle appropriately. Then:
1. Replace fluid in the reservoir with fresh DOT4. Clean diaphragm and replace cap.
2. Helper pumps the clutch pedal five times slowly full-top to full-bottom to full-top. Helper then takes foot off pedal.
3. You open the remote bleed valve.
4. Helper slowly presses the clutch pedal to the floor and holds it there.
5. You re-tighten the bleed valve.
6. Helper releases the clutch pedal.
7. You refill the reservoir to the fill-line and replace the cap.
8. Repeat steps until the expelled clutch fluid remains clear and shows no air bubbles.
9. Final step is to correct the fluid level in the reservoir.
10. Go for an easy drive without launch or high-rpm shifts. Check clutch engagement point and shift smoothness.
11. Repeat at lease one more time as required to disgorge trapped air.
Ranger
I have a remote bleeder on my car but don't use. I find the reservoir method is easier for me. But for those who wish to bleed via a remote bleeder, here is the way. Be very precise in the sequencing. If you're not, you will introduce air into the hydraulics.
Start by placing a section of clear tubing over the remote bleed valve nipple and running the tube to a clear plastic bottle, so that the expelled fluid can be seen. Light the tubing and bottle appropriately. Then:
1. Replace fluid in the reservoir with fresh DOT4. Clean diaphragm and replace cap.
2. Helper pumps the clutch pedal five times slowly full-top to full-bottom to full-top. Helper then takes foot off pedal.
3. You open the remote bleed valve.
4. Helper slowly presses the clutch pedal to the floor and holds it there.
5. You re-tighten the bleed valve.
6. Helper releases the clutch pedal.
7. You refill the reservoir to the fill-line and replace the cap.
8. Repeat steps until the expelled clutch fluid remains clear and shows no air bubbles.
9. Final step is to correct the fluid level in the reservoir.
10. Go for an easy drive without launch or high-rpm shifts. Check clutch engagement point and shift smoothness.
11. Repeat at lease one more time as required to disgorge trapped air.
Ranger
#170
Burning Brakes
This is very worthwhile to do, if you ask me. Many thanks to Ranger for all of his posts which is helping so many of us!
Just a side note.... While I choose to use that mixer thing as found at wally-mart to suck out fluid, which works fine, I also use a Turkey injector (not baster, but injector) that works well to refill. I found mine at the local supermarket (Giant) for like $6, and it is like an oversize syringe with an oversize needle- It fits PERFECTLY into the prestone dot4 bottles, and you can suck up an ounce easily and squirt it in the reservoir.... the fluid come out on the side of the end of the needle, so no splashing! I find it works great!
Thanks again,
Nate
Just a side note.... While I choose to use that mixer thing as found at wally-mart to suck out fluid, which works fine, I also use a Turkey injector (not baster, but injector) that works well to refill. I found mine at the local supermarket (Giant) for like $6, and it is like an oversize syringe with an oversize needle- It fits PERFECTLY into the prestone dot4 bottles, and you can suck up an ounce easily and squirt it in the reservoir.... the fluid come out on the side of the end of the needle, so no splashing! I find it works great!
Thanks again,
Nate
#171
Pro
Clutch Fluid Change
Thank you! Something I never thought about, and will now be done
on a regular basis.
on a regular basis.
#174
Burning Brakes
What do you guys do with the mucky extracted clutch fluid when the bottle gets full?
I'm taking care of my Vette and three others with my syphon kit using the "Ranger method".
Two of the cars were really bad and required a lot of refills.
My 2-liter Mt Dew bottle is just about full.
Will an oil recycler take this stuff?
I'm taking care of my Vette and three others with my syphon kit using the "Ranger method".
Two of the cars were really bad and required a lot of refills.
My 2-liter Mt Dew bottle is just about full.
Will an oil recycler take this stuff?
Last edited by Shawn S; 09-25-2011 at 08:20 PM. Reason: added picture
#175
Race Director
I see no posts in a while, but maybe one of you guys can help. I used the Ranger almost since he invented it even though I had no issues. I just like clean fluids.
About 6 mos ago I got hold of some expired (10 yr old) Ferodo Racing fluid & used it in the clutch res. Turned black in a day, I think it got acidic & ate some seal material.
I did not know it was bad until after the fact.
I got it out that night & got the system clear again but now I am getting a lazy pedal stopping half way up after a hard run.
I keep the fluid clear with frequent changes but still get a half way return of the pedal every time I run it hard.
50k miles on a stock c5z 2004.
Does this mean that mechanically the clutch is not pushing back hard enough on the slave actuator to bring the pedal all the way up?
Or is fluid leaking past the slave (due to seal damage) so as not to push the pedal up?
It's 100% NORMAL during easy driving.
Thanks if anyone has a good idea what this symptom means, no WAG please. I know it's not dirty fluid, I use Prestone or Wilwood 570. The Wilwood 570 seems to stay clean longer.
About 6 mos ago I got hold of some expired (10 yr old) Ferodo Racing fluid & used it in the clutch res. Turned black in a day, I think it got acidic & ate some seal material.
I did not know it was bad until after the fact.
I got it out that night & got the system clear again but now I am getting a lazy pedal stopping half way up after a hard run.
I keep the fluid clear with frequent changes but still get a half way return of the pedal every time I run it hard.
50k miles on a stock c5z 2004.
Does this mean that mechanically the clutch is not pushing back hard enough on the slave actuator to bring the pedal all the way up?
Or is fluid leaking past the slave (due to seal damage) so as not to push the pedal up?
It's 100% NORMAL during easy driving.
Thanks if anyone has a good idea what this symptom means, no WAG please. I know it's not dirty fluid, I use Prestone or Wilwood 570. The Wilwood 570 seems to stay clean longer.
#178
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2006
Location: Westchester County New York
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Hey all...I have just under 28,000 miles on my 2008 MN6....
Havent lifted the hood in a while...did so today and lo and behold....ALMOST NO CLUTCH FLUID in the reservoir
I cleaned everything and followed the Ranger protocol (as I used to do in my C5 and now the fluid is clear and filled (after about 8 fluid changes)....should I be worried? I have had the car since day one...and the clutch felt fine by the way...no issues at all!!
Opinions? Same experience anyone??
Havent lifted the hood in a while...did so today and lo and behold....ALMOST NO CLUTCH FLUID in the reservoir
I cleaned everything and followed the Ranger protocol (as I used to do in my C5 and now the fluid is clear and filled (after about 8 fluid changes)....should I be worried? I have had the car since day one...and the clutch felt fine by the way...no issues at all!!
Opinions? Same experience anyone??
#179
Racer
I'm now on my third fluid change in a week.
Car is an 05 coupe with 42k miles. I bought it in November 2011 with about 37k. When I first checked it a week ago the level was fine but it was black as coffee with serious particles floating around and caked at the bottom. Started the Ranger method. Changed it last night for the third time.
Drove to work today. I was all by myself this morning on the interstate on-ramp and couldn't resist. The shifting is definitely improved. Initially I though it was just natural for this car to shift hard, but after changing the fluid the difference is definitely noticeable. Went through the gears like crap through a goose. Needless to say I was past the century mark by the time I hit the end of the ramp, but that's another story.
Checked the fluid when I got home from work and it is slightly dark again but it is definitely getting less and less dark with every change.
Thanks to Ranger and the others on the forum for this and all the other valuable advice.
Car is an 05 coupe with 42k miles. I bought it in November 2011 with about 37k. When I first checked it a week ago the level was fine but it was black as coffee with serious particles floating around and caked at the bottom. Started the Ranger method. Changed it last night for the third time.
Drove to work today. I was all by myself this morning on the interstate on-ramp and couldn't resist. The shifting is definitely improved. Initially I though it was just natural for this car to shift hard, but after changing the fluid the difference is definitely noticeable. Went through the gears like crap through a goose. Needless to say I was past the century mark by the time I hit the end of the ramp, but that's another story.
Checked the fluid when I got home from work and it is slightly dark again but it is definitely getting less and less dark with every change.
Thanks to Ranger and the others on the forum for this and all the other valuable advice.
#180
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Shift Improvements?
Has anyone noticed any considerable improvements in clutch/shifting performance after the procedure...Obviously any positive maintenance is a plus,, but just curious if anyones issues have been solved or improved by doing this...Looked at the fluid in my 05 earlier,,,black as black comes,,I know what I am doing this weekend!! Thanks to all on the forum,,best one out there by far!!