stoessjc

The 2008 Manual says to torque spark plug being reused to 11 ft-lbs. It also refers to a fastener notice that says not to use thread lubricants unless specified. I have always used anti-sieze on spark plugs. Is this a problem on the C6? Do I need to adjust the torque?

John

Red Rochester

I never use lubricants and alway torque to spec.

eboggs_jkvl

With 2 dissimilar metals, I would use the anti-seize. I've used it with all of my spark plugs since I can remember. It only takes a wisp. I also don't (OH GOD) torque the plugs. I firm them in to finger tip tightness and 1/16 turn more and that's it. That's pretty close to 11 lb ft. (Torque fingers)

Elmer

Cobra4B

I always use a dab of anti-seize, then I thread them in all the way by hand, then go to wench tight (when you can feel it seat/check up), then go 1/16-1/8th turn after that. Never had any issues getting plugs in/out or loosening up. Trying to get a torque wrench in there is pointless.

JVM225

I've been driving and changing plugs in my own cars for about 38 years now and I've never used a torque wrench on the plugs. Finger tight, then a little extra with the wrench and you are good to go. Just make sure it's a little more, and no more than that.

Keencutter

If for some reason you do decide to use some type of anti-seize, you will have to use a different, lower, torque spec. Also, different based lubricants will require different torque. Better off following the manual to the letter if you don't have a pre-calibrated fingers for torquing. Most importantly, don't over do it! I have changed some spark plugs in the 40 or so years I have been doing it. Also, I work in a refinery where we do some serious torquing.

MWAZ

One reason for manufacturers not recommending anti seize on the plugs is that most DIY folks will use too much (a little dab will do ya) which can lead to fouling the plug. The aluminum based anti seize tends to get on the plug threads along with the tip, your hands, tools and everything else it comes in contact with.