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Well, you'd probably think you felt something. Any time someone drops hundreds of dollars on a cheap piece of plastic, the placebo effect kicks into high gear. Just remember that dyno testing has shown no, zero, zilch horsepower increase between the stock air cleaner and no air cleaner at all. You can't get less restrictive than open air before the MAF. So if that doesn't increase power, no air cleaner will. Doesn't matter how much cotton gauze it uses.
Well, you'd probably think you felt something. Any time someone drops hundreds of dollars on a cheap piece of plastic, the placebo effect kicks into high gear. Just remember that dyno testing has shown no, zero, zilch horsepower increase between the stock air cleaner and no air cleaner at all. You can't get less restrictive than open air before the MAF. So if that doesn't increase power, no air cleaner will. Doesn't matter how much cotton gauze it uses.
Yep, I thought I felt it when I had my Halltech (Love Jim Hall and his products!) but when I put my stock air cleaner back on to ship my C5 Z06 from Germany to the US I couldn't feel the difference. So no you can't feel 10HP.
It actually depends on weather you cut your radiator shroud or not. If you cut your shroud, you will get cold air forced up into your intake making you add horsepower. Remember, you wont see much of an increase in HP on a dyno. With most intakes, vararam especially, you have to be moving where cold air can be forced in to notice a difference.
One of the best ways to tell if you make any HP out of an intake is to take it to the drag strip and make a few passes stock then change over to the intake and see what you run. If you run faster, then you know you're gaining something.
Just remember that dyno testing has shown no, zero, zilch horsepower increase between the stock air cleaner and no air cleaner at all. You can't get less restrictive than open air before the MAF. So if that doesn't increase power, no air cleaner will.
Well, you'd probably think you felt something. Any time someone drops hundreds of dollars on a cheap piece of plastic, the placebo effect kicks into high gear.
This could also be said of some other bolt-ons for the C6 as well.
Originally Posted by Silver99v6
It actually depends on weather you cut your radiator shroud or not. If you cut your shroud, you will get cold air forced up into your intake making you add horsepower. Remember, you wont see much of an increase in HP on a dyno. With most intakes, vararam especially, you have to be moving where cold air can be forced in to notice a difference.
One of the best ways to tell if you make any HP out of an intake is to take it to the drag strip and make a few passes stock then change over to the intake and see what you run. If you run faster, then you know you're gaining something.
It actually depends on weather you cut your radiator shroud or not. If you cut your shroud, you will get cold air forced up into your intake making you add horsepower. Remember, you wont see much of an increase in HP on a dyno. With most intakes, vararam especially, you have to be moving where cold air can be forced in to notice a difference.
One of the best ways to tell if you make any HP out of an intake is to take it to the drag strip and make a few passes stock then change over to the intake and see what you run. If you run faster, then you know you're gaining something.
So basically, if I bought a intake and did not cut the shroud, even when moving, there wouldn't be any difference compared to the stock intake?
So basically, if I bought a intake and did not cut the shroud, even when moving, there wouldn't be any difference compared to the stock intake?
Here is the deal. The primary purpose of these aftermarket intakes is providing colder air to the engine and lowering intake air temps (IAT).
So an intake without cutting into the shroud is essentially what is known as a "warm air intake" as it also sucks up warm underhood air. The C6 cuts timing when IAT's are above 86*. How hot do you think the air gets under the hood? Not good and I dont see much difference to the stock intake, despite what K&N et al say.
Now a closed cold air sytem which draws ambient air from a filter cut into the shroud does not suck in warm underhood air. Thus, when moving, you are getting outside colder air and lowered intake air temps to near or at ambient.
Thanks for the explanation. I don't want to cut anything so I'll stick with the stock intake.
Originally Posted by siffert
Here is the deal. The primary purpose of these aftermarket intakes is providing colder air to the engine and lowering intake air temps (IAT).
So an intake without cutting into the shroud is essentially what is known as a "warm air intake" as it also sucks up warm underhood air. The C6 cuts timing when IAT's are above 86*. How hot do you think the air gets under the hood? Not good and I dont see much difference to the stock intake, despite what K&N et al say.
Now a closed cold air sytem which draws ambient air from a filter cut into the shroud does not suck in warm underhood air. Thus, when moving, you are getting outside colder air and lowered intake air temps to near or at ambient.
Thanks for the explanation. I don't want to cut anything so I'll stick with the stock intake.
Some of these closed system cold air intakes are available with optional pre-cut shrouds. So you simply replace your stock shroud with a pre-cut shroud ready to go. That's what I did with my Xcelerator CAI.
I believe in your title you referred to the Halltech Venom LS3. The Venom is for the LS2. The Halltech Killer Bee is for the LS3. I installed the Halltech Killer Bee and the Beehive Shroud with the cut outs at the bottom of the shroud for cold air ( see Halltech's website for instructions on the cut outs). So with my set up, I am getting cold air flowing directly into the air filter and a shroud to prevent hot air entering the intake. I have done several back to back comparisons between the stock LS3 intake and the Killer Bee setup. I have also done back to back comparisons with several hundred miles of driving between intake changes to allow the ECM to adjust fully. My butt dyno made the following conclusions, sorry no charts available:
The Killer Bee setup improved throttle response in the mid to upper rpm range. The car also pulls a little harder, especially from 3800 rpm and on up. I bellieve Halltech's claims of 10- 12 hp increase and about the same in torque are correct. What is important is keeping the IAT's down and this is what the Halltech setup does. However, if the ambient temp is over 86 derees F, timing will be pulled back no matter what CAI you are using.
Idle quality stays at the stock 650 rpm, but will sometimes jump up and down slightly, 25 rpm, more often than the stock intake. What did feel smoother with the Halltech is the transition from idle to first gear. It feels smoother rolling out from a dead stop. Just telling you what the butt dyno felt.
The product is made of quality materials, installs easily and fitment was perfect.
I hope this helps
Last edited by Mike's LS3; Apr 22, 2009 at 01:09 AM.
I believe in your title you referred to the Halltech Venom LS3. The Venom is for the LS2. The Halltech Killer Bee is for the LS3. I installed the Halltech Killer Bee and the Beehive Shroud with the cut outs at the bottom of the shroud for cold air ( see Halltech's website for instructions on the cut outs). So with my set up, I am getting cold air flowing directly into the air filter and a shroud to prevent hot air entering the intake. I have done several back to back comparisons between the stock LS3 intake and the Killer Bee setup. I have also done back to back comparisons with several hundred miles of driving between intake changes to allow the ECM to adjust fully. My butt dyno made the following conclusions, sorry no charts available:
The Killer Bee setup improved throttle response in the mid to upper rpm range. The car also pulls a little harder, especially from 3800 rpm and on up. I bellieve Halltech's claims of 10- 12 hp increase and about the same in torque is correct. What is important is keeping the IAT's down and this is what the Halltech setup does. However, if the ambient temp is over 86 derees F, timing will be pulled back no matter what CAI you are using.
Idle quality stays at the stock 650 rpm, but will sometimes jump up and down slightly, 25 rpm, more often than the stock intake. What did feel smoother with the Halltech is the transition from idle to first gear. It feels smoother rolling out from a dead stop. Just telling you what the butt dyno felt.
The product is made of quality materials, installs easily and fitment was perfect.
I hope this helps
Even with the Killer bee and Beehive, I would think you're not getting more airflow unless you cut the shroud, therefore, not much more power than stock??
Last edited by 03 Z-oh-6; Apr 21, 2009 at 08:15 PM.
Even with the Killer bee and Beehive, I would think you're not getting more airflow unless you cut the shroud, therefore, not much more power than stock??
Prior to installing the Beehive Shroud and cutting two holes at the bottom of the shroud for fresh air, I installed the Killer Bee only and felt the improved throttle response and performance above 3800 rpm. Again, we are only talking about 10 to 12 hp and torque. So the gains were achieved from a less restrictive path through the intake and the ability to flow more volume through a larger filter element. When I added the Beehive Shroud and cut the holes for cold air, the throttle response felt slightly improved at speeds above 60 mph. The Shroud and cold air mod are designed to keep the IAT's down, preventing the ECM from pulling timing. It's not what you gain, but what you gain to lose
Last edited by Mike's LS3; Apr 22, 2009 at 12:47 AM.
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