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Old May 9, 2009 | 05:56 PM
  #21  
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sounds like a rod knocking..

knocks under load. less when not under load...
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Old May 9, 2009 | 07:06 PM
  #22  
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Damn. Today I changed the oil, same noise. Definitely sounds like a rod knock. This sucks.

Who would think a dealership would sell a car with 2 quarts low?
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Old May 9, 2009 | 07:19 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cvccbum
Damn. Today I changed the oil, same noise. Definitely sounds like a rod knock. This sucks.

Who would think a dealership would sell a car with 2 quarts low?
desperate times call for desperate measures..... brings out the pirates in folks it does...
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Old May 9, 2009 | 11:54 PM
  #24  
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You know how it is. More than not, those little used car sales lots, don't do anything but park the car for sale.

Sorry to hear that happened just the same.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:15 AM
  #25  
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Btw, the knock inside while engaged starts at 2 seconds in on the second video.

Heres another video i've uploaded:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZhGCUP1h7g
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Old May 11, 2009 | 02:33 AM
  #26  
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If your motor was low on oil, have your dealer check your vehicle to see if it falls under TSB 09043.....


THIS SERVICE UPDATE INVOLVES VEHICLES IN DEALER INVENTORY ONLY AND WILL EXPIRE SEPTEMBER 30, 2009.

Purpose
This bulletin provides a service procedure to replace the engine on certain 2009 model year Corvette vehicles equipped with a 6.2L V8 engine. Some of these vehicles may have one or more incorrect oil control rings installed in the engine. This could result in high oil consumption.

This service procedure should be completed on involved vehicles currently in dealership inventory as soon as possible but no later than September 30, 2009, at which time this bulletin will expire.

Vehicles Involved
A list of involved vehicles currently in dealer inventory is available on the "Service Update Bulletin Information" link under the "Service" tab in GM GlobalConnect used to release this bulletin.

Important: Dealers are to confirm vehicle eligibility prior to beginning repairs by using the GM Vehicle Inquiry System (GMVIS). Not all vehicles may be involved.

Parts Information
The replacement engine needed to complete this service update should only be ordered from the Product Quality Center (PQC). Contact the PQC and request an engine assembly. The full 17-character VIN will be required. All removed engines should be held until a Warranty Parts Center (WPC) Request for Return is received. DO NOT SHIP AN ENGINE TO THE WPC WITHOUT AN OFFICIAL WPC REQUEST. If you do not receive a WPC request, contact Julie Cumo at 248-371-9939.

Service Procedure
Refer to SI for engine exchange procedure.
Contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) and request an engine. The full 17-character VIN and the 09043 bulletin reference will be required when ordering.
Caution: To avoid spillage when removing from the shipping container, do not tilt the engine excessively. Do not destroy the container as it will be used to ship the removed engine to the WPC. Check fluid levels after installation.

Refer to SI and replace the engine. The removed engine should be held until a WPC request for return is received. DO NOT SHIP WITHOUT AN OFFICIAL WPC REQUEST . If you do not receive a WPC request, contact Julie Cumo at 248-371-9939.
After the engine is installed in the vehicle. The following service procedure should be used to test the engine:
4.1. Disable the ignition system.

4.2. Crank the engine several times. Listen for unusual noises or evidence that parts are binding.

4.3. Enable the ignition system.

4.4. Start the engine and listen for unusual noises.

4.5. Check the vehicle oil pressure gage or light and confirm that the engine has acceptable oil pressure.

4.6. Run the engine speed at about 1000 RPM until the engine has reached normal operating temperature.

4.7. Listen for a sticking lifter or other unusual noises.

4.8. Inspect for fuel, oil, and/or coolant leaks while the engine is running.

4.9. Perform a final inspection for the proper engine oil and coolant levels.

Return the removed engine to the WPC following the procedures outlined in Bulletin 99 00 89 019E.
Claim Information
For vehicles repaired under this service update, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
Net Item**

V2056
Replace Engine (inc. wheel alignment)
13.5*
$400.00

Add: Adjust Rear Toe
0.2

Add: Adjust Front Toe
0.1

* The labor time shown includes 0.5 for wheel alignment, and 0.2 hr. administrative allowance.

** The amount identified in the "Net Item" column represents the part allowance for the replacement engine.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 03:00 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cvccbum
Btw, the knock inside while engaged starts at 2 seconds in on the second video.

Heres another video i've uploaded:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZhGCUP1h7g
Still sounds like a rod knock to me. If you bought from a large dealership, you may have a chance at getting them to cough up half a rebuild, if you act quick, otherwise they'll just say you ran it too hard after buying it. If its a small mom/pop shop, you may just have to bite the bullet -or- purchase a aftermarket warranty, like Warranty Direct and wait and see what happens. May last a week or several months but a rod without a bearing won't last too long.

Hindsight........I always check the oil not just for measurement but for water, foam, dirty and smell. Kinda like how the Doc always order blood work on a person to see what condition they're in.

Good luck ....Rocket
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:09 PM
  #28  
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It is a small mom/pop shop unfortunately. I have a warranty through them for 50% labor/50% parts for engine internals. Sad thing is I haven't even gotten to drive the car barely. Haven't gotten to see the power
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:17 PM
  #29  
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Do the old 'listen thru a stick' trick. Find a spot you can safely place one end of the stick (like a broom stick) firmly on the motor block and place your ear on the top end with the motor running. If there's a rod knocking you will clearly hear it.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:20 PM
  #30  
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Don't rule out an exhaust leak. That will increase significantly under load. You mentioned in an earlier post that you smelled exhaust after getting on it.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:31 PM
  #31  
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Yeah, I'm praying its exhaust. Tomorrow I'm going to a shop to get it checked out.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:37 PM
  #32  
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eek knocking is not good.
get it checked out asap...i wouldnt drive it anywhere else

my buddy bought a car through a hole in the wall "dealer"...had knocking.
he eventually found out a rod was thrown (or something of that nature)...took it back, they said "tough luck" pretty much. got a lawyer involved and appearently there is a thing called "The Lemon Law"
The shop had to fix it for free because they "lied" about the condition of the vehicle at time of purchase.

Last edited by tumblrC6; May 11, 2009 at 12:43 PM.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 12:39 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by cvccbum
Yeah, I'm praying its exhaust. Tomorrow I'm going to a shop to get it checked out.
Good luck..let us know when you find out.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 01:18 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by tumblrC6
eek knocking is not good.
get it checked out asap...i wouldnt drive it anywhere else

my buddy bought a car through a hole in the wall "dealer"...had knocking.
he eventually found out a rod was thrown (or something of that nature)...took it back, they said "tough luck" pretty much. got a lawyer involved and appearently there is a thing called "The Lemon Law"
The shop had to fix it for free because they "lied" about the condition of the vehicle at time of purchase.
yeah, I'm going to go this route as a last resort. Thanks for the info

EDIT: I don't think it can be an exhaust leak because it's quiet when cold (thick oil). Arn't exhaust leaks much louder while cold?

Last edited by cvccbum; May 11, 2009 at 01:34 PM.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 08:13 PM
  #35  
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Went ahead and bought a 1 year full powertrain warranty on it from the dealer. He went in half and half so it only cost me $200.

Going to wait a few days and take it to a shop for an estimate.
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