Griffee

Just an fyi in case anyone runs into this problem.

If all of a sudden you start having issues getting into reverse this solenoid is most likely the culprit. All my other gears shifted fine, but it took two hands to grunt it into reverse. No grinding or noises mind you just extra extra stiff going into reverse.

The reverse lockout solenoid is located on top of the transmission. Book wants you to drop the rear and transmission to gain access. I found this totally unnecessary. I was on a lift which made things easier,but feel it could be accomplished from the ground as well on jack stands.

First you just need to reach up top and unplug the solenoid. You will then need a 34mm deep socket, reach up there and get the socket on it. Then take a 3/8 inch ratchet with a 3/8 to 1/2 inch expander on it and click it into the socket from the driver side. You can actually gain access from either side, but you have more ratchet room on the driver side.

Next get it loose so it's finger loose, and pull the ratchet out. Room is tight up there so you basically want to get the ratchet/expander out as soon as you can, and get the socket out before you back it out too far and the socket gets trapped.

Once out, thread the new one in as far as you can by hand. Then pop the socket on it, ratchet and expander, tighten it up, plug it in, and you are good to go.

About a 15-20 minute job once you are on jack stands, or on a lift.

johnodrake

Good poop! Thanks. That will be useful.

MADinAK

Good to know.

RicK T

Nice work. I doubt I would even have tried it without knowing it can be done. Thanks.

danl72

lh4x4

Thanks for posting this.

Griffee

Thanks for the good words...

Just to add and complete it...the part number for the solenoid is 12523300 and the list price is $169.56 and you should be able to find it for $125.00 from your favorite dealer. Included is a couple of blurry pics of what you are looking for , and the pin on the end should move freely. When it becomes stuck is the cause of the problem.

calemasters

Here is the procedure form the service manual. I like your method better. It is a real time saver. Thanks.


Removal Procedure
Caution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in the Preface section.





•Disconnect the negative battery cable.
•Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
•Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
•Remove the intermediate exhaust pipe to muffler bolts.
•Tie off the mufflers to the underbody to support out of the way.
•Remove the rear transverse spring. Refer to Rear Transverse Spring Replacement .
•Disconnect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers from the rear suspension crossmember.
•Position a transmission jack under the rear suspension crossmember and firmly secure the crossmember to the jack.
•Using ONLY HAND TOOLS, remove the rear suspension crossmember mounting nuts.
Important: Observe the clearance between the driveline and the driveline tunnel closeout panel.

•Slowly lower the rear suspension crossmember, along with the attached driveline, approximately 4 cm (1½ in).
Lower the rear suspension crossmember and driveline for access to the reverse lockout solenoid.





•Disconnect the reverse lockout solenoid electrical connector.




•Using the J 41099 , remove the reverse lockout solenoid.
Installation Procedure
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.





•Using the J 41099 , install the reverse lockout solenoid.
Tighten
Tighten the reverse lockout solenoid to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).





•Connect the reverse lockout solenoid electrical connector.




•Slowly raise the rear suspension crossmember to seat to the vehicle frame rails.
•Using ONLY HAND TOOLS, install NEW rear suspension crossmember mounting nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the rear suspension crossmember mounting nuts to 110 N·m (81 lb ft).

•Remove the transmission jack from the rear suspension crossmember.
•Connect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers to the rear suspension crossmember.
•Install the rear transverse spring. Refer to Rear Transverse Spring Replacement .
•Remove the tie-off retainers from the muffler assemblies.
•Install the intermediate exhaust pipe to muffler bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the intermediate exhaust pipe to muffler bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

•Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
•Lower the vehicle.
•Connect the negative battery cable.
Tighten
Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

•Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming .

Ahmer

Stupid question...: Is this for a C6 or C5?

GOLD72

My guess is that it will work for either generation. The Reverse lockout is in the same position on the tranny.

jrgeorge27@gmail.com

I was able to replace the reverse lockout solenoid and it fixes
My reverse issue, but now I Can't shift into 1,3,5, or 6th gear. Any ideas????

AverageVetteNut

Thanks for the writeup! I just bought the part and once it goes in I plan n doing it.

I just read the shop manual deal and was hoping someone could do it without all the crap and the special socket.

AverageVetteNut

Ok... so I FINALLY was able to get this done today....

the new part I bought went right in... took a little while but got it done.

it is helping a great deal but the car still is fighting going into reverse a little.

Need to check the shifter and make sure it's aligned too.

66biskwik

What was the height of the socket you used? I have one I used to remove the nut on my Yukon front hubs. It looks pretty high to get between the trans and body.
Thanks,
ED

Jladenmark

Hi,

Thanks a lot for this thread.
I just changed the Solenoid on my manual '06 C6, BUT did it a little different as I did not own the big sockets required - took half an hour.

Instead of only removing the solenoid itself, I also removet the housing where it is mounte into. It is held only by a single bolt. To remove it you just need a small 13mm socket, a 4-5cm extender and a racket.
The old solenoid requires a 34mm long-socket. The new you get today
requires a smaller (26-27mm) long-socket.

Start by disconnecting the wires. Then remove the bolt from the passenger side of the lock-out housing (sits up high) using the 13mm socket. Pull out the housing incl. solenoid from the gear box. I had my car in neutral.
With the solenoid and its housing out, you can disassemble in a wise.
Lubricate the o-rings and mount the new solenoid in the housing. Put the solenoid and its housing back into the gearbox - tighten the bolt (13mm Socket) and connect the wires. Done.
Note: Make sure the housing is all the way into the gearbox and flush before tightning the bolt.

I will try to attach pics of the gearbox and solenoid house location - the old and new solenoid (ACDelco part #19178634, $60.- on Ebay).

Below, first pic: Solenoid housing is #1
Second pic, bolt no 9 is the one I removed.

lovinmyls1

Thanks for the info and especially the pics- makes all the difference in the world.

nowheelie

Jladenmark, Griffee,

Just wanted to post a thanks to you both, back to 2009 and 2017, it's still super good information.

I just had to do this today. I hoped to do Griffee's method (34mm and 27mm deep sockets) but could not find any at local auto/hardware stores deep enough.

I had to go the route of Jladenmark's (13mm bolt to remove the side unit assembly), on jackstands. As mentioned it is super tight in there. Took my time, made sure the 13mm socket was on there good and grunted big time.

Side note. Removing that side assembly was a bear. It would rotate but not pull out. Felt like it was locked (was in neutral, tried it in first, went back to neutral). I had to use one of the socket extenders between the assembly and transmission body, to make a sort of ramp/lever. As I rotated/pulled down on the assembly against the ramp it would slowly back out.

It wasn't tight in a metal on metal grinding sort of way (rotation was very smooth), more.. like it was being held in or (or vacuum tight). Just tackled it very gradually. New solenoid tested and working!

Many thanks!

WhiteDiamond

I wanted to thank those who contributed to this thread. This has helped me as well.

Just a note: I ordered the part through Amazon and got the entire solenoid and housing assembled. Not sure if that is the way it has always come, as it seems to indicate many of you just got a solenoid, but mine came ready to go in after removing the 13mm(bolt #9 as mentioned in post above). Was tight, but doable.....

Dutch08

OK, equally stupid question ... why replace it.? I think (might be or I'm probably wrong ) it only keeps you from selecting 5th. Since I drive only on the street/highway I think I could tell the difference between 5th and Reverse when shifting.

Paul1966

The 2005 has two of these on the side of the transmission. Might as well replace both. The problem I was having is the BCM did not think I had the car in reverse. Got a warning on the driver info display and would run the battery down if you did not disconnect it. Bought two on Amazon for half of what the dealer wanted.