I tried to follow the previous posts on installing resistors with LEDs which all seem to be using these clip on splices to run a resistor in parallel with the turn signal wiring.

First, I tried connecting the reisistor with the blue splices that came with the leds and it made no noticeable change to the blink speed. My multimeter ohmed the resistors at 8.5 ohms. Just as a note, the gap in the blades in the splices does not give me a lot of confidence that a good electrical connect is assured. These wires are very thin.

Second, I put a multimeter on the resistor connections and I never got anything over 8 or 9 volts and sometimes a lot less. That may be because it was blinking and the meter was integrating the signal because the signal was not bouncing at all.

Third, the resistor got over 150 degrees F when I was reading 8 volts and this resistor comes with a rubberized insulating cover.

At this point, I was not happy with the results and unless I actually cut the wires and solder in splices and insulate with heat shrink, I wouldn't feel confident that I am getting a good electrical connection. So I backed off and left it alone.

Anyone got any comments or suggestions for another try to get back to the original blink rate?

I like the LEDs and since the blink rate is not insanely fast, I can live with it indefinitely. I would rather make sure that I was doing it the best that I could before doing any more work on it.

 

Many LED suppliers recommend soldering in the resistors for best results. Use the heat shrink that has adhesive inside for waterproof connections.

The LED suppliers I checked with said 6 ohm resistors were the proper value for the DRL/Turn install. And, 3 ohms for each rear turn signal, 4 resistors total in back.

The resistors will get extremely hot. The rubberized coating you mentioned seems counter-intuitive. They should be the type that incorporate an aluminum heat sink/fins.

I would mount these resistors in the engine compartment and not tucked away behind the headlight access panel. You can purchase aluminum plates that are made to work with the resistors and provide additional cooling/safe attachment to the car.

Another problem is that the DRL's are the Turn Signals. Unless you run your car with the DRL's off (or headlights or parking lights only), the LED's will burn out quickly and the resistors may not survive either.

Take a look at V-LED's site for the aluminum clad resistors and mounting plates. They are developing a high power rear turn signal/brake LED replacement "bulb" for the C6.

Good Luck.