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Sorry to disrupt the comedy hour, but that was a serious question. The headlight lenses are clear acrylic and I'd like to keep them clear. Clear means clean (among other things) and the clay bar process is a cleaning process. However there may be other factors that would damage the acrylic. Does anybody know?
Clay bar is an extremely fine abrasive and, as such, is not fundamentally different from the products marketed to restore acrylic headlight covers.
I just checked the label on a bottle of Turtle wax Liquid Clay Bar and it says "safe for all finishes". It further states that the product contains no harsh chemicals or (harsh) abrasives. The label does warn consumers to not use the product on porous or vinyl surfaces.
Because acrylic is a thermal-set plastic and therefore softens under heat, I think it would be wise to not use an electric buffing pad or polisher on the headlight covers.
BTW, the Turtle Ice Wax, that is companion to the Liquid Clay Bar, can also be applied over all plastics and black-out trim without fear of "chalking".
Okay so Raazor did answer the question in his usual and precise way. Yes use the clay bar on the lights. I personally would not and would use a plastic specific product but for all I know the clay bar may be okay on the lens.
I however chose to see the humor in Raazor's post and attempted to add to it. Let the comedy hour continue.
I have some plastic polish and it works great on the headlight covers. Don't see a problem using a clay bar on the covers as well. Just keep it lubricated as you would on your paint.
No I don't. Not that it's wrong or bad, but I'm leery of using an abrasive product made for paint on (softer) plastic. There are plastic cleaners that should work well such as Plexus. If it works for you, that's great. I have the 3M product on the front including the head and fog lights so can't do it even if I wanted too.
Clay bar is an extremely fine abrasive and, as such, is not fundamentally different from the products marketed to restore acrylic headlight covers.
I just checked the label on a bottle of Turtle wax Liquid Clay Bar and it says "safe for all finishes". It further states that the product contains no harsh chemicals or (harsh) abrasives. The label does warn consumers to not use the product on porous or vinyl surfaces.
Because acrylic is a thermal-set plastic and therefore softens under heat, I think it would be wise to not use an electric buffing pad or polisher on the headlight covers.
BTW, the Turtle Ice Wax, that is companion to the Liquid Clay Bar, can also be applied over all plastics and black-out trim without fear of "chalking".
Thanks for smokin' your leather seats!!!!
Clay bar is abrasive free. It works by shearing off particulate matter. The only abrasive is what it picks up.
Two, a thermo-set plastic will NOT soften under a reheat, that would be a thermo-form plastic.
Its amazing this site allows anyone to be an EXPERT!!!
There is a wealth of smartass things that could be said about some of the responses in this thread, but I will limit my comments to this:
There is absolutely no danger in using a claybar on the headlamps as long as it is used properly. I am shocked that anyone would even suggest that there was a danger. Also, as coryvte has said, claybar is not an abrasive.
I personally think clay bar can be abrasive. Especially when you add the contaminants the clay bar is picking up. It is designed as a first step in preparing paint for polishing. Any fine scratches left by the clay bar and it’s contaminants will be polished out. I do not use it on the headlights; there are many other products for plastics that would be safer. But you can probably get away with it for removing bugs and fine dirt without noticing any scratches. I don’t think it’s going to improve the appearance like it does when used as a paint polishing step. This is just a matter of how picky people are about their Corvettes. I'm on the picky side of the fence.
I don't see a problem with that at all. I have the clear bra on my leneses (which is softer than the lenses themselves) and have clayed them twice with zero swirls or scratches. The key is to not use any pressure on the clay bar. I think the clay is more "sticky" than it is abrasive so as long as the clay bar is perfectly free of any dirt or any other abrasive particles, you'll be good.
Also, as coryvte has said, claybar is not an abrasive.
Hello? If claybar is not an abrasive, then why do you need to use a lubricant constantly and why do you have to be very careful with how heavily you press it to the surface?
Detailing clay marketing information often reads something like this: “…clay pulls contamination off of your paint...” This sounds silly when you realize that you must lubricate the surface when you use a car clay bar. How in the world do you pull on something that’s wet and slippery?
This myth was born from a fear of telling people the truth. Clay is an abrasive paint care system. Yet used properly, detailing clay is not abrasive to your car’s paint; it is abrasive to paint contamination.
CAR CLAY BAR FORMULATIONS
Detailing clay formulation determines the optimal function of the clay and its potential to do damage when used improperly.
As an example, a professional grade clay bar that’s designed to remove paint overspray is very firm and contains abrasives equivalent to heavy rubbing compound. Used properly it will remove heavy overspray without damaging the paint. Used improperly, it can leave some pretty significant surface marring. That’s why it’s a professional product.
Most consumer grade detailing clays are designed to be used as an annual or semi-annual paint maintenance tool prior to polishing and waxing. At this frequency, these detailing clay products work great. Simply use the clay as part of your major detailing regimen.
The problem we were beginning to see is that many car enthusiasts wanted to clay their vehicles frequently; as often as monthly. At this rate of use, some consumer grade detailing clay can begin to dull clear coat finishes. After all, it is an abrasive!