my rear right tire just had a blow out. i must have hit something sharp and metal. i was running 60 mph when it happened. it sliced the middle part of the tire aorund 1 " long. can this still be repairable? it's a michelin ps2 sports tire not the stock one. anyway, there is something moving inside when rolling the tire. could that be the sensor inside was broken off? the outside part is still intact though.

 

1" cut... = New Tire..

 

Yes...that tire is history...1" rip is too much.

 

will the sensor inside snap off as well? the outer part is still intact and i wiggle it and still solid. bummer each tire costs $569, ouch, lol. i have to get a pair at least.

 

If the foreign object happened to hit the right place, it could have broken off the plastic part of the sensor and the stem would still appear to be fine from the outside. It also could be that the item rolling around is actually part of what punctured the tire. We had a flat tire a long time ago and found an intact pair of needlenose pliers inside when we pulled the tire off the rim.

 

thanks for the response. i hope it's not the sensor, or else i have to order the part and will delay the install probably by a week. i still have to call the local dealership and hopefully they have it in stcok (UJ9) i believe is the right sensor for my 2007.

 

Michelin ps2 sports tires are $569 each? Where did you get them? My guess is HI is not cheap..... Also you did not get Road Hazard coverage? How many miles on them?

 

that's tirerak's price. bought them as a tire/wheel package from corvettegarage in 2/07. car now has 12k miles, but i rotate them w/ the stock tire/wheel every 6 months. so you can say they only have 6k mi on it. check out the site and i don't think i bought the road hazard . not sure if it would be fine if i just get one tire? or hopefully they'd give me credit for the other tire at least and use it to lower the price.

 

Should be fine to replace only the flat tire with a Michelin PS2.

One of my tires ran over a screw in the Carmax lot. For liability reasons they insisted on replacing it with a new tire (instead of plugging it) before I could take delivery.

The car drives fine with one new rear tire and the other with several thousand miles on it.

 

No offense, but thats not a blow out.. a blow out is "sudden total air loss"... = tire destruction....

anyway.. like the guys said, you can't repair that type of injury... get a new tire.

 

i took the tire at lex brodie's and they don't have the tires available, contacted sears, costco and sam's club, and it has to be ordered in the mainland. the sensor was still good. but they recover a 4" x 2" metal plate!!!! that punctured and went inside the tire. it made a loud noise when it hit it. by the time i stopped, the tire was already FLAT! i just checked underneath and there was also a paint chip, it's a good thing it's at the bottom and not visible. the michellin was not run flat and i'm glad it didn't came off the wheels. not a blow out? i think it is.
i just noticed a dent in the middle part of the wheel but not on the edges, can this still be balanced?

 

really? that's good then. thanks for the info.

 

I also had a 1" slice in mine, although it was in the sidewall done by a teenybopper with his knife. Replaced it for about $345.

 

that wheel dent may cause some balance issues.

i wont argue with you on the blow out...cause im a 1966 Radford HS grad...(howsit, brah?) .......LOL... but ....as a retired tire testing/engineer from the U.S. govt. of 30+ years, we would not classify that as a blow out....... just for the record..... ..........

now.. for a blow out incident.. I offer the following write up :

Back in 1994, while I held the position of the Manager of Federal Tire Qualification Testing Program, I was lucky enough to be invited and attend a Michelin sponsored blow out training course held out in the desert at the Nevada Automotive Test Center in Silver Springs, Nevada. The course was a week long, hot and dusty, and worth every single second of it. I learned a lot of things about vehicle handling dynamics, and I learned not to fear a tire blow out by safely controlling a vehicle with a blown tire and bring it to a safe stop.What you are about to read here can save your life….I hope that you will pass this information on to friends, family, and anyone else you may feel might benefit from it. Memorize it…and tuck it neatly away in the back of your mind, but know its there…..so if you do have a blow out…..it jumps out without you having to “think” about it. There is no time to “think” when a tire blows out….it’s the first few seconds that are the most critical.Lets look at this “blow out” scene……and what’s really happening………

.Force Vector: There is a “force vector” which is present when your car is traveling down the road/highway….this “force vector” is a sum of the forward motion of the vehicle and the input of the forces driving the rear wheels (or front wheels). This force vector has variables….say your front end is out of alignment, this could cause a slight pull to one side, or, and under inflated tire, and misaligned frame from a previous accident (God forbid)…but…these variables are slight in nature. So…..this “force vector” is what makes your vehicle continue its motion in the forward direction, and is only altered by the steering input fed by the change in direction of the front tires………keeping in mind, if that steering change is TOO drastic, the force vector will overcome the change and cause skidding tires or center of gravity displacement…i.e.: rollover.The dreaded blow out (sudden air loss)……… when this occurs, you now have a new force vector, this force vector has been created by tremendous traction (rolling resistance) now being supplied by the blow tire…its “dragging” the front or rear of the vehicle to that side, the side of the blown tire. This force vector is at a 90 degree angle to that of the forward force vector that’s dictating the direction of the vehicle. Front tire blow outs are much worse than rear because it is “steering” the direction of the vehicle.So…What do you do?I’ll tell you what you don’t do first: Never…..Ever…….hit the brakes!Why? Remember that force vector I described above? If you hit the brakes, you are now drastically increasing that sideways force vector. Hitting the brakes when a blow out occurs is responsible for almost 95% of all crashes that occur during a blow out, especially roll-overs. Most all blow out crashes happen in the first few seconds of the blow out, especially front tire blow outs.

Let’s look at a rear tire blow out condition first: Ease your foot off the accelerator…ease… don’t just jerk your foot off the pedal…the engine compression and deceleration will add to much to that nasty force vector. The whole idea is that you are maintaining control and continuing in the same direction that you were before the blowout. The tire is not going to come off the rim, unless you just keep driving it down the road for a mile or more. When you can, steer over to the shoulder, if there is one, lightly and steadily applying the brakes until you come to a stop. That’s it.Ok.

The scary one, the worst blow out scenario, a front tire blow out:When a front tire blows out…the vehicle immediately begins to pull in the direction of the blow tire…..accelerate….. yes, your read correctly… accelerate! Only briefly though… Why? Because that increases that force vector of the direction you are going before the blowout…and allows you to get control of the vehicle and maintain course. It only takes a few seconds… depending on your particular vehicle and road conditions.

Now, I’m, not advocating stomping on the accelerator pedal if you are driving a Z06 Corvette with over 400HP!... However, if you are driving a fully loaded vehicle with a 150hp 4 cylinder, you may have to do that. You know your particular vehicles acceleration capabilities better than anyone. You must be the judge. Once you have control, then start doing the same thing you did with the rear wheel blow out till you are stopped.

 

GREAT description! Ain't physics wonderful? Now imagine a front blowout on a motorcycle. I've had it happen.... twice. The first time I wasn't going fast enough to have a problem when I locked up front and back and slid to a stop. The second time I again managed to get stopped quickly but all thought of controlling the direction of travel was ignored in favor of just staying upright. Four wheels are so much simpler than 2.

 

thanks for the info. very helpful thanks bro

as for the dent, it's almost in the middle part of the wheel and not on the edges, would that still cause problem during balancing? i asked lex brodie's and was told it should be fine. i hope so. the michelins are expensive $549 each!!! after the loud bang, i just applied the brakes slowly to stop the car. no vibration or wiggling of the tires occured, but i noticed the car was a little bit slant so i knew it was the tire but i was really scared by the loud bang. imagine a 4"x2" metal plate sliced into the tire also causing a slight dent inside the rim. how the heck it got inside the tire. i also have a scratch at the bottom part so i just touched it up.

 

Very sorry about your blowout. The good news is that the damage was confined to the tire & wheel. It could have been a lot worse.

Regarding the wheel dent... Sight unseen it's hard to know if it will cause balancing problems. Can you take a high-res photo of the dent showing its size and depth? If you can, I'd suggest sending it to a professional wheel repair and refinishing company for an expert consultation. One I know of is http://www.wheelcollision.com/wccsvcs.html. There are many others.

 

it's just a slight dent, but you can feel it when rubbing it w/ ur hands. i know, it's a good thing it was not the front tires or i may have swerved and caused more damage.

 

A dent in the middle of the wheel shouldn't cause balance problems, no metal was removed and the "location" of the existing metal was changed only a very small amount.

The dent might someday progress into a crack, it would take a wheel expert to make that prediction and even he would simply be making a guess that was more educated than ours. However, it sounds like the dent is in an area with very low stress. If it doesn't have any sharp edges, I would just check it out each time you get a new tire.

The bigger issue is different tread depth on the two rear tires. That can cause a very slight but constant slipping of the positraction differential which produces excessive wear, and unequal tread can produce uneven braking. I don't know if there is an industry standard for difference between two (rear) tires, maybe Wolfdogs can help us out. Depending on how you drive; 6k miles could be virtually nothing or it could be 1/2 of the tread depth.

In a month, the only thing that should still remember this episode is your wallet...