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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #41  
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Default Let's us beg the Administrator for Spell Check!

Originally Posted by Marc V.
I didn't even catch that. I guess I would make a terrible proof reader or editor.
Let's beg the Administrator for spell check and abrive check. I knoow I could use it at timess. Yep!
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 12:20 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 2006c6keller
Let's beg the Administrator for spell check and abrive check. I knoow I could use it at timess. Yep!

I agreey
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:58 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by mksz51
Wrong. Brake fluid is hygroscopic - attracts moisture. Not good longterm.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 09:23 AM
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I end up changing mine for the track at every event as I want to keep my boiling point as high as possible. There is a pretty good graphic on this page for AMSOIL DOT 3 brake fluid that shows what happens to the boiling point over time (note that I use their DOT 4 for the track):
AMSOIL Series 500 High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid

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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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Thanks for the link.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #46  
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I follow the maintenance interval from the Nissan and Acura owner's manuals I have. They both say change brake fluid at 3 yrs regardless of mileage. Rusting out the brake master cylinder (from water built up in the brake fluid) is rather costly. Why doesn't GM put this maintenance item in their owner's manual? Beats me. Do they have non-hygroscopic fluid? Doubt that. Maybe it's a way to sell more GM brake parts down the line. The procedure itself is straight-forward. I was intimidated the first time I did it, but with all the help out there on the internet, it was easy. Just follow directions (like the order of bleeding the lines...it's not always the furthest bleeder valve away from the master cylinder first.) Of course, if you trade your car within 5 yrs, you can "follow the owner's manual" and let it be someone else's problem later...
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by hawkgfr
Yes...juts don't pump the pedal with the lid off or the tank empty.

I did this on my ranger first lol. I sucked out and re-filled the reservoir with fresh brake fluid every three days or so or until the fluid "browned" up. I used a tall bottle of fluid. After about 2/3rd bottle the fluid stayed clean. Truck had 60k on it and it made a huge difference in pedal modulation.

I did it in the Vette at 15k...tall bottle just because....
If you have the OEM Dot 3 fluid in the lines, is there any danger in using the "turkey baster" to change fluids to a Dot 4 fluid (i.e., any harm from slight mixture of the DOT 3 and DOT 4 and/or different brands of fluids)?

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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 01:40 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Hogvette
If you have the OEM Dot 3 fluid in the lines, is there any danger in using the "turkey baster" to change fluids to a Dot 4 fluid (i.e., any harm from slight mixture of the DOT 3 and DOT 4 and/or different brands of fluids)?

Additional Question: the article posted earlier recommended AMSOIL or Castrol brake fluid... does anyone know a retailer who stocks these on the shelf? Is there any significant differences between brake fluid manufacturers in terms of quality?

Thanks
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Hogvette
If you have the OEM Dot 3 fluid in the lines, is there any danger in using the "turkey baster" to change fluids to a Dot 4 fluid (i.e., any harm from slight mixture of the DOT 3 and DOT 4 and/or different brands of fluids)?

DOT 3 and DOT 4 (and DOT 5.1) are completely compatable. They are all polyglycol-ether based.

Last edited by Marc V.; Jan 23, 2010 at 02:20 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 02:22 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Hogvette
Additional Question: the article posted earlier recommended AMSOIL or Castrol brake fluid... does anyone know a retailer who stocks these on the shelf? Is there any significant differences between brake fluid manufacturers in terms of quality?

Thanks
Any name brand brake fluid is good for everyday use.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:09 PM
  #51  
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Uh oh, looks like I'll have to change my fluid this year as it's my 3rd year of ownership.....but, I'll upgrade the braking system with Z06's at the same time. Thanks for reminding me.....more money to spend that must be done...
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:15 PM
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How impotent is it to use a Tech II tool to cylce the ABS when flushing the brake fluid ?
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by need-for-speed
How impotent is it to use a Tech II tool to cylce the ABS when flushing the brake fluid ?
Spell check and proper meaning to question!

HELP - CALL THE ADMINISTRATOR!

I couldn't help it!
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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What do others think about the "Turkey Baster" method (changing the brake fluid by pulling it from the reservoir with a turkey baster)???

I have never heard of doing this and find it interesting, especially if you want to save a little money...

Thoughts???
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:38 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by rossi6998
What do others think about the "Turkey Baster" method (changing the brake fluid by pulling it from the reservoir with a turkey baster)???

I have never heard of doing this and find it interesting, especially if you want to save a little money...

Thoughts???
It is to start out with clean fluid coming out of the master cylinder to the individual wheel cylinders, remember to refill with clean fluid before starting to bleed.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006c6keller
Spell check and proper meaning to question!

HELP - CALL THE ADMINISTRATOR!

I couldn't help it!
Actually - I did it on purpose There's a very un-P.C. joke that uses this word, so I like to use it too.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:44 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by rossi6998
What do others think about the "Turkey Baster" method (changing the brake fluid by pulling it from the reservoir with a turkey baster)???

I have never heard of doing this and find it interesting, especially if you want to save a little money...

Thoughts???
It can't hurt anything, although it won't provide as much benefit as the Ranger clutch fluid procedure since the brake fluid does not circulate - it only goes "back and forth".

If you decide to do it, buy a "Mixer Miser" at Walmart. It's by the gas cans. Cost is $3 and it's much better than a turkey baster. I have one for the Ranger clutch fluid change method.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 01:27 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Hogvette
If you have the OEM Dot 3 fluid in the lines, is there any danger in using the "turkey baster" to change fluids to a Dot 4 fluid (i.e., any harm from slight mixture of the DOT 3 and DOT 4 and/or different brands of fluids)?

Even if it wasn't compatible the transfer would be minimum as I am only using the syringe to pull the fluid. I pour the new fluid with a funnel.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Hogvette
Additional Question: the article posted earlier recommended AMSOIL or Castrol brake fluid... does anyone know a retailer who stocks these on the shelf? Is there any significant differences between brake fluid manufacturers in terms of quality?

Thanks
Answering several questions posed above:
- DOT 3 and DOT 4 are compatible as they use the same base fluid - independent of vendor. I use the turkey baster method all the time. For example, a few weeks ago I sucked out the GM stock fluid in my wife's Trailblazer and added AMSOIL's DOT 3 fluid.
- There is a big difference in the fluids of various vendors. Best bet is to compare wet and dry boiling points. The minimum dry boiling point for DOT 3 brake fluid is no less than 401°F, and the minimum wet boiling point is 284°F. The wet number is probably a better comparison point for most street cars given how long the fluid sits in the car, but for the track I normally would consider the dry boiling point as most track day guys bleed their brakes very often. As a comparison to the above minimums for DOT 3, the AMSOIL DOT 3 has a dry boiling point of 525F and a wet boiling point of 313F.
- If you can't find a local vendor, I can buy via AMSOIL and have it shipped directly to you. PM me if interested and I'll give you the best price possible.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by need-for-speed
It can't hurt anything, although it won't provide as much benefit as the Ranger clutch fluid procedure since the brake fluid does not circulate - it only goes "back and forth".

If you decide to do it, buy a "Mixer Miser" at Walmart. It's by the gas cans. Cost is $3 and it's much better than a turkey baster. I have one for the Ranger clutch fluid change method.
I hate to sound dumb, but what is the "Ranger clutch fluid change method" ? Why the name "Ranger" ?
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