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Well first off you should never use a torque wrench for removing bolts - use them only to tighten.
Snap-on makes excellent tools but they are very expensive - the one i bought was a craftsman from sears - does the job just fine.
Yeah what he said!
You don't want the type that you put pressure until a little pointer tells you about how much torque. You want the type that clicks at the torque you dialed in.
You don't want the type that you put pressure until a little pointer tells you about how much torque. You want the type that clicks at the torque you dialed in.
Another vote for the click type. There are fancier ones with digital readouts but then you have to be in a position to read it. Not a good position to be in when you are tightening wheels.
I switch out my tire/wheel set up several time's a year for track usage. I use a 3/4" drive ratchet to break the lug nut's loose. Jack the wheel up, spin em' off with a cordless drill, then back on again. Drop the wheel down, then to 100 ft/lbs with a torque wrench. I also check the rear axle nut's with a 34mm socket while I'm at it. Mine's an old twist beam job, and seem's to work fine.
From: Currently somewhere in IL,IN,KY,TN,MO,AR,MS,AL, or FL
If all you expect to do are wheels then any click type will work fine. The important thing is that they all be torqued equally, not that they be torqued to exactly 100 ft.lb. If they are all the same somewhere between 80-120 the rotors will not warp. Even the cheapest torque wrench should be repeatable.
Now if you are considering doing some serious engine wrenching in the future, get a good one. Craftsman is my preference. NEVER use a torque wrench to loosen fasteners and ALWAYS adjust to zero before storing.
I have used a torque wrench to LOOSEN fasteners many times with no effects to the torque wrench. If you are using the clicker type, just make sure there is no torque set and it will not hurt a thing.
If they did not want it to be used for loosening, then there would be no direction selector ****, just like a regular ratchet has. Again, just make sure there is no torque setting - set.
I have also used the beam type torque wrenches for loosening fasteners when the tightening torque is not known. Just watch the beam pointer to see when the fastener breaks loose and this puts you in the ballpark of what the tightening torque should be.
I do agree that with a clicker type, torque setting should be zero prior to storage.
Use a breaker bar or speed wrench for removal, never the torque wrench.
Even torque is more important than an exact measurement. Most wrenches will be +/- a few %. No big deal at 100 FT/LB on lug nuts it will be consistent from nut to nut.
Good practice is to torque in steps, say 80 Lb then up to 100 Lb to assure even tightening.
I like 'click type' wrenches for some of the above reasons.
(95% of people never use a torque wrench for lugs and have very few problems, just about any torque wrench will be good for this use)
For those of us in the aviation world, a torque wrench is never used for loosening. New technology, hoewever, allows torque wrenched to be used for either loosening or tightening. In fact, ratcheting torque wrenches are made specifically for that purpose. Even though, when you subject a torgue wrench of the initial break away torque of a nut, you are stressing the torque measuring system built into the torque wrench and will affect its life span and possibly its calibration. A click type from Craftsman provides good results at a reasonable price. If you are using a torque wrnech for occasional use re calibration is normally not needed.
Wheel lug installation is not a real technical job that would require exacting precision for torque specs. You can spend several hundred dollars on a high tech digital read-out torque wrenches.I would recommend one of the Craftsman thimble set wrenches which are around $70 or so, even cheaper on sale. I used a "pointer" style for years which is a pretty low tech wrench. Even one of those for about $30 would work just fine. No need to spend big bucks on a torque wrench that you will be using for wheel lugs.
As above use a breaker bar to remove.
Buy one and a troque wrench at Harbor Freight... probably get both for under $25. www.harborfreight.com
There may be one near you... best place to avoid Corvette tax...
Also agreat place to buy your battery float charger.
Get one made in USA. And since there is no reason to ever use one to take off a lug, better to avoid the controversy and just use something else, anything else for that. I have a lug cross wrench from Walmart, $8 for taking lugs off. Its much easier than a torque wrench anyway.