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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 01:54 AM
  #1  
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Default Wont Start..

Hi, Im a noob here, Im not much of a poster and I mostly just observe, But im having some trouble with my 07 vert. I went to drive it today and it first couldn't get the doors to open, So I pressed the unlock on my remote manually. But it did nothing. Lights didn't blink or anything. So I use the key to open the trunk with the keyhole by the license plate, Then Pull the string to pop open the door. Go to start it up and it says "no fob detected" God damn it. I had this trouble a few years ago and it was 5 trips to the dealer before it was over. Tried the other fob, same thing. And my other fob is used so little it still has the original dealer tag on it. Anyway I went ahead and put the fob in that little slot in the glove box. Go and press the button, the engine goes Click Click Click. OK lets jump it. Get my jumper box out. Hook it up to the remote locations (although I couldn't find the ground bolt they were talking about, but i have headers so IDK if this means thats gone, so I just grounded it to a header bolt) let that sit for a couple minuets, and it still wouldn't fire. So I tried regular jumper cables and hooked it up to my yukon, same thing, had a buddy keep the yukon at 1500-2000 rpm, while I tried to start the vette, and couldn't get anything out of it other than a click, click, click. Its now out of the b2b warranty as I got it in march of 07. Any ideas what could be wrong here?
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:14 AM
  #2  
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Default ah...

Originally Posted by RollinThunder01
Hi, Im a noob here, Im not much of a poster and I mostly just observe, But im having some trouble with my 07 vert. I went to drive it today and it first couldn't get the doors to open, So I pressed the unlock on my remote manually. But it did nothing. Lights didn't blink or anything. So I use the key to open the trunk with the keyhole by the license plate, Then Pull the string to pop open the door. Go to start it up and it says "no fob detected" God damn it. I had this trouble a few years ago and it was 5 trips to the dealer before it was over. Tried the other fob, same thing. And my other fob is used so little it still has the original dealer tag on it. Anyway I went ahead and put the fob in that little slot in the glove box. Go and press the button, the engine goes Click Click Click. OK lets jump it. Get my jumper box out. Hook it up to the remote locations (although I couldn't find the ground bolt they were talking about, but i have headers so IDK if this means thats gone, so I just grounded it to a header bolt) let that sit for a couple minuets, and it still wouldn't fire. So I tried regular jumper cables and hooked it up to my yukon, same thing, had a buddy keep the yukon at 1500-2000 rpm, while I tried to start the vette, and couldn't get anything out of it other than a click, click, click. Its now out of the b2b warranty as I got it in march of 07. Any ideas what could be wrong here?
My REALLY good guess... Your Car Battery is BAD... been there... done that... Had AAA out.. they could not jump.. replaced battery.. all good..

If you have a volt meter.. put it on the battery... my guess is... internal short... It happens... Let us know... Borrow GOOD battery.. and try it.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 03:09 AM
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Def a battery issue however if it did not start with a jump possible starter or solenoid and or alternator issue. I had a similar issue myself and found out that the starter, soleniod and alternator are all intertwined together somehow. I had to replace the battery and later found out my solenoid was bad on the starter. Another thing is the DBS ( Dead Battery Syndrome ) is coming on the 2005 models.

Last edited by Ed 718; Mar 5, 2010 at 03:12 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 05:14 AM
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You could remove the battery and take it to an auto parts store and have them recharge it. If it doesn't take a charge there, then you'll need to replace it and btw-always hook up a battery tender when your not driving it for more than 5 days.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:31 AM
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Batteries have increased their cold-cranking amps while keeping the same external dimensions. Some of this is due to better materials and refined manufacturing techniques. Some of it is due to making the micro-pourous seperators between the plates thinner. This makes a more compact battery, but also makes it more prone to shorted-cell type failure. Any type of thermal, electrical or mechanical shock and the cells short. In the old days, the batteries would often give you plenty of warning they were dying - not today. You might as well not carry jumper cables anymore.

Jim
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:55 AM
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Don't bother messing with that battery any more. It is shorted internally. It can't be charged. 3 years is about right for a dealer/owner abused battery that has been fully discharged several times. Get a new one and your problems will be gone.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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Just last week end I needed to move the car to move some new furniture in to the house. I went to start the car and it said No Key Fob detected. It had been on the tender for over 3 months. I pressed the lower left of the start button and then the lower right and the radio came on. The car then started. I dont know why, it just happened this way. Good Luck...
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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Once you replace the battery, you will have to reset the window indexing. Normally, this will be the only thing you'll have to reset.

Close the car door. Raise the window and hold the up switch an extra 3 seconds. Release. Without lowering the window, hold the up switch again for 3 seconds. Release. Done.

This is called resetting of the window indexing or power window initialize and is in the owner's manual. See page 2-17 of the 2005 owner’s manual, page 2-18 of the 2006 owner’s manual, page 87 of the 2007 owner’s manual, page 2-18 of the 2008 owner’s manual, page 2-18 of the 2009 owner's manual, ,or page 3-18 of the 2010 owner's manual.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by FortMorganAl
Don't bother messing with that battery any more. It is shorted internally. It can't be charged. 3 years is about right for a dealer/owner abused battery that has been fully discharged several times. Get a new one and your problems will be gone.
and if it's shorted internally, jumping won't work which is your problem right now.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 12:41 PM
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Yup a low battery will cause all those symptoms. When its that low, it takes a really beefy set of cables to get a C6 going. Try charging the battery yourself if you can, or get a new one. Low voltage will cause the whole fob system to act crazy.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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Also, if your car might sit for weeks and/or you take mostly short trips, get a good battery tender. You'll get max life from your new battery. And peace-of-mind knowing your battery is always fully-charged.

More info: "Help! NO FOB DETECTED, car won't start..."
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 03:19 PM
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put a new battery in but still getting the no fob detected thing. I will read up on your link though thanks.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RollinThunder01
Hi, Im a noob here, Im not much of a poster and I mostly just observe, But im having some trouble with my 07 vert. I went to drive it today and it first couldn't get the doors to open, So I pressed the unlock on my remote manually. But it did nothing. Lights didn't blink or anything. So I use the key to open the trunk with the keyhole by the license plate, Then Pull the string to pop open the door. Go to start it up and it says "no fob detected" God damn it. I had this trouble a few years ago and it was 5 trips to the dealer before it was over. Tried the other fob, same thing. And my other fob is used so little it still has the original dealer tag on it. Anyway I went ahead and put the fob in that little slot in the glove box. Go and press the button, the engine goes Click Click Click. OK lets jump it. Get my jumper box out. Hook it up to the remote locations (although I couldn't find the ground bolt they were talking about, but i have headers so IDK if this means thats gone, so I just grounded it to a header bolt) let that sit for a couple minuets, and it still wouldn't fire. So I tried regular jumper cables and hooked it up to my yukon, same thing, had a buddy keep the yukon at 1500-2000 rpm, while I tried to start the vette, and couldn't get anything out of it other than a click, click, click. Its now out of the b2b warranty as I got it in march of 07. Any ideas what could be wrong here?
Hello, I was reviewing your post and see that you are having trouble with your vehicle. I do apologize for this and can understand your frustrations. I am going to send you a private message for further information.

Geoff Allen
Chevrolet Customer Assistance
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RollinThunder01
put a new battery in but still getting the no fob detected thing. I will read up on your link though thanks.
Be sure your new battery is charged.

Also, you might need a new FOB battery (CR2032). Supposedly only good for ~3 years. Be sure to observe correct polarity when you install it!

Even with a weak FOB battery, the FOB-in-the-glovebox-slot should work. Be sure the FOB buttons face the passenger side.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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The battery, alternator and starter all come together at the solenoid connection. You need to make sure its clean and tight and not forgetting that its electrically hot there. Not sure that is your cause, but its sounding like you don't have enough power to run things.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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Default Just went thru this....

And it is NOT the battery!
Exact same thing happened to me on my '08 and charging the battery or jumping did nothing. Got the "NO FOB DETECTED".
Was at the dealer for several days and no codes shown. They eventually advised it was the "FOB DETECTOR MODULE" or some such language. Anyway, they replaced the unit and it is fine so far.
Here are the numbers from the repair order:
FP# 25882862; Description: RECEIVER 10.485
I strongly suspect this is the problem.
Keep us posted.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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we replaced the solenoid and fob batterys (on both fobs) that got it running. OK great, bring it home from the dealer, go to run it again, and thing goes "no fob detected" I get pissed and throw the key at the wall and break it. So I let it sit for a couple hours get the spare key and try it again, just like normal, and this is exactly what it did a couple years ago. I will call the dealer tomorrow and see what they say, But they only accept drop offs on saturday, the tecs are only monday through friday. Sucks too As It was supposed to be mid 60s here this weekend. I was so looking forward to a weekend cruise by the ocean.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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Your problems fit mine to a "T".
Suggest the module/part # I posted above. Have the dealer install and I suspect your problem will be history.
Mine has been perfect for the last 2 months.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CO Lightfoot
Also, if your car might sit for weeks and/or you take mostly short trips, get a good battery tender. You'll get max life from your new battery. And peace-of-mind knowing your battery is always fully-charged.

More info: "Help! NO FOB DETECTED, car won't start..."
Interesting - and useful - thread. I suspect you people are on the right track re the battery having reached its sunset period. I heartily endorse the suggestion to get a batterey tender - even a "jr. model" will do the job.

Interestingly I went to start my '07 C6 this morning, disconnecting the battery tender (which was showing a green light) and then getting in the car and pressing the brighly-lit green starter switch. Everything suddenly went dead and I had to use the manual door levers to even get out of the car.

I raised the hood (thank you GM for not making the hood release another "electronic feature") and noticed the red plastic cover over the "+" terminal was slightly askew. I pushed it down and all of a sudden everything went on. Didn't make sense.

Everything has been fine since and I'm now of the thought that I had my Corvette key fob in the same front pocket of my jeans as my Mazda key fob. I wonder now if when I sat down in the driver's seat I somehow activated one or both fobs in such a way as to cause them to interfere with one another. Then when I got out of the car and stood up, perhaps the pressure came off one or the other fobs.

Not to suggest that may be the problem here, but I can't think of any other reason for my particular issues.

Strange.
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